Tag Archives: Maytag

Samsung dryer heating element DC97-14486A is used on many Samsung clothes dryers and even some Maytag (Neptune) and Amana dryer models.  When the heating element goes bad, it will usually have a break in the heating coil which will cause the element not to heat.  These instructions work for most Samsung dryers, some may have some small differences but the overall process if very similar.  Here is how to replace and test the DC97-14486A & DC47-00019A heating element:

First, unplug or shut off the power to the dryer before working on it.

Then remove the two screws securing the top panel to the back of the dryer.  Slide the top panel towards the back of the dryer to remove.  Now you will need to remove the front control panel, some model will have screws securing this. Remove them and then pull up to remove, you should have enough extra wire to set the control panel on top of the dryer to get it out of the way (if not, then disconnect the wires and set it off to the side).

Behind where the control panel was there will be four screws that secure the front panel of the dryer to the frame.  Remove these four screws.

Open the door of the dryer, there will be two screws that need to be removed at the bottom of the door frame area.  With those two screws removed you should be able to tilt the front panel forward, remove the connector to the door switch, and remove the front panel.

The heating element is located on the bottom right side of the dryer.  To remove the element you will need to remove the wires to the heating element, thermal fuse, and thermostat.  Then remove the mounting screw in the front and the whole heating element assembly should pull out the front of the dryer.

To test the heating element, you will need an Ohm meter or multi-meter.  A good heating element should read approximately 9-10 ohms.  A burned out element will have an infinite resistance (it won’t register anything).  See the video below for instructions on how to test the heating element.

To re-install the heating element you will need to put everything back in the reverse order.  If you lost track of how the wires connect to the heating element, please see the picture below.

If you need to purchase a new Samsung dryer heating element, click one of the two links below.

The best way to purchase the heating element is as an assembly. The heating element assembly includes the heating element, two thermostats, and housing.

Heating Element Assembly –  Part # PD00002003 (mfg # DC97-14486A)

We also sell the heating element by itself.  You will need to re-use the thermostats and element housing.

Heating Element – Part # PD00001991 (mfg # DC47-00019A)

Removing drain pump part number W10536347 is a simple task.  When this pump fails, the washer will display “LD” on the display which means “Long Drain”.  This pump can be found on Whirlpool Cabrio, Maytag Bravos, and Kenmore Oasis model washing machines.  The pump can fail if something gets stuck in the pump (coin, clothing item, ect), and sometimes you can get lucky and just remove the object that was stuck in the pump.  Other times the pump can break, so make sure so inspect the pump before putting it back in the washer.

How to the remove the drain pump:

1. Unplug the washer
2. Next, you will need to remove any water still in the washer (use a wetvac, bucket, towels, ect to do this)
3. Turn off the water supply going to the washer & disconnect the hot & cold fill hoses to the washer
4. Remove the drain hose from the wall or drain tub
5. Tape the lid shut (so the lid doesn’t pop open)
6. Carefully lay the washer down on its front side (place some towels or rugs on the floor to protect the washer).
7. Note:  On the bottom side of the washer, the drain pump is the larger of the two pumps (the recirculation pump is the smaller one).
8. Remove the drain hose (discharge hose) from the pump.  Loose then clamp and pull off the hose.  Note there is a notch in the hose to line up when you put the hose back on.
9. Remove the inlet hose to the pump.  Loosen the clamp and remove the hose from the pump.
10. Open the end cover on the pump and remove the wire connector.
11. Remove the three 5/16″ screws securing the pump.
12. The pump should now be free.  Check to see if anything is caught in the impeller.  If you notice any damage, or the pump still does not work then you will need to replace the drain pump assembly.
13. Re-install in the reverse order.  NOTE:  The new pump includes a shield cover that goes between the pump and tub of the washer to protect the pump from any moisture falling onto it.

If you have any questions please post them in the comments section below.

If you need to purchase a new drain pump for your washer, visit our store by clicking the link below:

Drain Pump and Motor – W10536347

Removing and installing the W10189966 motor/machine control board in your washer is an easy task.  This control board is used on some Whirlpool Cabrio, Kenmore Oasis, and Maytag Bravos model washers.  When this control board fails, they will commonly come up with an F1 error code repeatedly that won’t go away.

• First unplug the washer
• Next, remove the three hex screws from the rear of the top console.
• Then Lift the console off the cabinet and disconnect the cable going to the user interface board.  This will give you access to the motor/machine control board.
• Disconnect the nine wire connectors going to the control board and the pressure switch hose (also called a pressure transducer tube).
• Remove the mounting screw and lift the front of the control, slide it out from under the clips at the back, and remove it.
• Re-install the new control board in the reverse order.

If you have any questions, please post them in the comments section below.

Visit our store if you need to purchase a new control board for your washing machine by clicking the link below:

Machine/Motor Control – W10189966

Some Maytag Neptune dryers use a thermistor temperature sensor to measure the temperature of the air in the dryer.  When this sensor fails you can get a “tS”/”t5” error code which indicates a thermistor short.  Testing this sensor is very easy, all you need is a digital mulit-meter that can read ohms.

This is how to test thermistor part number WP35001191:

• With the thermistor removed from the dryer set your meter to measure ohms (or to the 20K/40k ohms setting)
• Place one probe on each terminal of the thermistor
• The thermistor at room temperature should read approximately 10k ohms.  If it is far off from that, the sensor will need to be replaced. (sensor in the above picture is a bad sensor)
• Once the bad sensor has been replaced, you will need to reset the code or else the TS code will continue to display.

Here is how to get into service mode to clear the TS code:

• First, Enter Service Mode.  Dryer must be on before Service Mode can be entered. Press Chime and Temperature Keys for 3 seconds, or until 3 beeps are heard. The machine will now be in Service Mode.
• Next, access diagnostic codes by entering the Service Mode and pressing Wrinkle Prevent. A “d” will be displayed. Rotate the Cycle Selector Knob in either direction to step through the list of codes one code at a time.
• Then, to clear the diagnostic code list press the Sensor Dry Level and Time keypads together for 3 seconds while viewing the list. The cycle count for each diagnostic code will be reset to 0, but not the machine cycle count.
• Finally exit service mode by pressing the OFF key or repeat the Chime and Temperature sequence.

If you need to purchase a thermistor sensor for your dryer click the link below:

Thermistor – WP35001191

On older style Maytag & Jenn Air dryers, the blower wheel often fails with age.  The blower wheel connects to the motor and is the fan that blows the air through the dryer.  When the blower wheel fails you will often hear a rumbling noise come from the dryer when you start it, and then again when you turn it off.  Also you may start to notice the clothes taking longer to dry than normal since the blower wheel isn’t spinning as fast as it’s supposed to.

What goes bad on the blower wheel is the flat spot that is supposed to bed on the blower wheel.  On a bad blower wheel the center will be round out.

(bad blower wheel)

On a good blower wheel the center will have a “D” shape with a flat spot for the motor shaft to grab onto.

(good blower wheel)

The manufacturer part number for the blower wheel is Y303836, and sometimes they will have the number 3-12913 stamped on the plastic.  Click the link below to purchase the blower wheel from our store.

Blower Wheel – Y303836

On Whirlpool built direct drive top load washing machines (also built under the Kenmore, Estate, Roper, Inglis, Kitchen Aid, Maytag, and Amana brand names) the motor is directly connected to the transmission and no belt is used.  When people complain that the washer doesn’t seem to spin out the clothes as well as it used to, it is commonly the transmission leaking grease that causes this problem.  What happens is the seal on the top of the transmission goes bad and leaks grease onto the clutch.  Once the grease gets onto the clutch, the clutch doesn’t have enough friction to spin the tub.  Lighter loads will usually spin out better than bigger heavier loads. Continue Reading – To Find Out If Your Washer Is Leaking Grease…