Category Archives: Dishwasher

Is your dishwasher refusing to drain? If you’re facing this common issue, don’t worry, we’ll walk you through the troubleshooting steps to get your dishwasher back in working order. These instructions apply to various Whirlpool Corporation brands, including KitchenAid, Maytag, JennAir, Amana, Kenmore and more.

Safety First

Important Warning: Working with electricity is dangerous and can lead to serious injury or even death. If you’re not confident in handling electrical components, please contact a professional technician.

Important Information

Before we dive in, it’s crucial to understand that there will always be a small amount of water in the bottom of the sump, even after the dishwasher has fully drained. Typically, around one inch of water remains in the filter cup slot. It’s also best to perform these troubleshooting steps with the dishwasher uninstalled.

For the initial tests, plug the dishwasher back in.

Checking the Drain Pump Motor

Locate the drain pump on the underside of the dishwasher. Start a cycle, then press cancel/drain to activate the drain cycle. You should hear the drain pump motor running. If the motor isn’t running, it’s time to check if it’s getting power.

Verifying Power to the Pump

If the drain pump motor isn’t running, we need to check if it’s receiving power. Warning: If you are uncomfortable performing a live voltage test, consult a professional as working with electricity can be dangerous.

To do this, set your multimeter to AC current mode. Disconnect the electrical connector from the drain pump by pressing the locking tab. Insert the multimeter probes into the connector without letting them touch, which could short the circuit. The motor should receive approximately 120v AC during operation.

Motor Receives Power but Doesn’t Run

If the motor is getting power but still isn’t running, remove it from the dishwasher. To do this, locate the retaining tab underneath the machine, depress it, and turn the pump counterclockwise to remove it. Check for obstructions in the impeller and inspect it for damage. There should be slight resistance when turning the impeller due to the internal magnets.

Next, set your multimeter to the Ohm setting and test the motor by touching the probes to the wire terminals. The motor should read between 15 and 60 Ohms. If it doesn’t, the motor needs to be replaced.

Motor Doesn’t Receive Power

If the drain pump isn’t receiving power, inspect the wiring between the pump and the main control board. Look for broken wires or burnt connections. Use a multimeter set to the continuity setting to check the wires. If the wires do not have continuity, you’ll need to replace the wiring harness.

Additionally, check the fuse on the main control board. Learn how to test the fuse on the control board in this video. If it’s blown, replace the entire control board and determine what caused the overload in the circuit to prevent future issues. This could be due to a shorting drain pump motor or a failing control board.

Motor Runs But Dishwasher Still Doesn’t Drain

If the motor runs but the dishwasher still won’t drain, check the drain hoses for obstructions or kinks. Ensure the internal check valve in the drain loop hose is functional. If the valve is faulty, replace the hose.

Verify that the garbage disposal plug is knocked out. See this video for instructions on removing the garbage disposal drain plug.

If everything checks out and the dishwasher still won’t drain, recheck the pump motor as described earlier.

Need Replacement Parts?

For any replacement parts, head over to PartsDr.com. Make sure to have your dishwasher’s model number handy to find the exact parts you need.

Conclusion

That’s it for our troubleshooting guide. If you found this helpful, please support us by purchasing appliance parts from our online store. For more DIY repair tips and guides, consider subscribing to our Youtube channel. Happy repairing!

Samsung dishwashers with a flashing light as an indicator of error codes may flash the normal light. During this error, the dishwasher may not be functional. The normal light flashing often indicates an error code for a “water leak error” and often requires the washer inlet valve to be replaced.

You may also want to try a few other steps to resolve this issue. Troubleshoot the error code is important in solving the issue.

Steps to Troubleshoot Normal Blinking Light

1. Try unplugging the device. This allows the main control board to reset. Once the unit has been plugged back in, check to see if the blinking light error persists.
2. Locate any leaks or source of moisture. The normal light flashing typically indicates that the leak sensor is being tripped. Check the dishwasher for sources of the leak. The most common source of the leak that we have seen is a failure of the water inlet valve, but many other things could leak so be sure check things like the circulation pump, drain pump, hoses, and more. Once the source of the leak is found, replace the faulty component to resolve the problem.
3. Check all components for damage. If a component such as a pump or motor is damaged, there may be leaking around that component. It may need to be replaced.
4. Check your water inlet valve for any moisture outside of the valve. If it is leaking, it may need to be replaced.

If you do need to replace a part on your Samsung Dishwasher, find your model number and visit our website to find the correct dishwasher part for your appliance!

There are no error codes thrown. Your dishwasher runs fine, through an entire cycle, but when you open the completed load of dishes, you find that the dishes that you just got done cleaning are completely soaked. Water is sitting on top of the glasses and in all of the areas that will hold water in your dishwasher load. You might immediately think, “The heating element has gone bad!” or “I need a new control board.” You may have a bad heating element or you may have a bad control board. However, the heating element or control board is rarely the issue for these symptoms.

There may be a simple answer to your non-drying GE dishwasher.

Your Float Switch Assembly may have failed.

First, search using your dishwasher’s model number at our website and pull up the parts list to see if your model has a float switch similar to the one in the above photo. If it does, you can order that after confirming fitment. Once you have received the part, the repair is fairly simple!

Overview of how to replace the float switch

Step 1: You’ll want to pull your Filter (#451 in the diagram) from the bottom of the dishwasher to expose the Float switch assembly #308. There is a screw off ring (#454) that you can unscrew to best access the float switch. Once you have these removed, you can find the two screws that hold the float switch in place.

Note: You may need to dry the area around the float switch assembly as there may be standing water. If you remove your float switch and there is standing water it will leak out of the bottom of the dishwasher. You can use a wet/dry vacuum to remove the standing water.

Step 2: Remove the two 1/4″ screws holding the float switch down (This may be a different size on different models). Be careful not to lose the screws into the drain area holes next to the float switch assembly.

Step 3: Once the screws are removed, pull the Float Switch out of the hole. It is attached through the bottom to a wire harness plug. You can remove the electrical plug from the back of the float switch and plug your new float switch in.

Step 4: Place the float switch back in the hole and reinstall the two screws, hand tightening them. Reinstall the upper adapter #454 and the filter #451.

You should now have a dishwasher that completes a cycle and produces dry dishes for you to put away!

Where to Purchase

You can place your order for this float switch on our website (Parts Dr.) when ready! Please make sure to use our model number fitment checker prior to purchase!

If you’re wondering how old your GE appliance is, you can determine its age by using the serial number. Each GE appliance has a unique serial number that contains information about the appliance, including the month and year of manufacture.

In this post, we’ll walk you through how to decode your GE appliance’s serial number to determine its age. We’ll use the examples from Eric’s video to illustrate the process.

Step 1: Locate your appliance’s model tag

Before you can decode your appliance’s serial number, you’ll need to locate its model tag. The model tag is a small metal or plastic plate that is typically located on the appliance in a safe but easy to find location. If you’re having trouble locating the tag, you can use our model number locator for common tag locations.

Step 2: Determine the month of manufacture

The first character of the serial number indicates the month in which the appliance was manufactured. Use GE’s Appliance Manufacture Date Code Chart to determine the corresponding month. For example, if the first character of your appliance’s serial number is ‘D’, it was manufactured in February.

Step 3: Determine the year of manufacture

The second character of the serial number indicates the years during which the appliance may have been manufactured. Use GE’s Appliance Manufacture Date Code Chart to determine the possible years. For example, if the second character of your appliance’s serial number is ‘R’, it could have been manufactured in 2020, 2008, 1996, 1984, 1972, or 1958.

Step 4: Use the owner’s manual to narrow down the year

To narrow down which year your appliance was manufactured, you’ll need to reference the owner’s manual. Look for a date on the bottom of the first or last page. If you don’t have a physical copy of the manual, you can find a digital version on GE’s website using your appliance’s model number.

Match up the year from the owner’s manual to the closest year in the chart. For example, if the date listed in your owner’s manual is 11-22 and the second character of your appliance’s serial number is ‘R’, the closest year in the chart is 2020. This indicates that your appliance was manufactured in February of 2020.

Examples

Let’s run through a few examples using the information from Eric’s video.

Example 1: GE Microwave

Serial Number: D S

Month: February

Possible Years: 2021, 2009, 1997, 1985, 1973, or 1959

Date Listed in Owner’s Manual: 11-08

Closest Year in Chart: 2009

This indicates that this microwave was manufactured in February of 2009.

Example 2: GE Stove

Serial Number: H A

Month: May

Possible Years: 2013, 2001, 1989, 1977, 1944

Date Listed in Owner’s Manual: 01-09

Closest Year in Chart: 2013

This indicates that this stove was manufactured in May of 2013.

Example 3: Older GE Stove

Serial Number: A H

Month: January

Possible Years: 2017, 2005, 1993, 1981, 1951

Date Listed in Owner’s Manual: 03-93

This indicates that this stove was manufactured in January of 1993.

Conclusion

Decoding your GE appliance’s serial number is a simple process that can help you determine its age. By using GE’s Appliance Manufacture Date Code Chart and the information from your appliance’s model tag and owner’s manual, you can easily determine when your appliance was made.

Dishwashers have become an indispensable part of our modern kitchens, making daily chores more convenient and saving us precious time. However, like all appliances, they too may require maintenance or repair over time. The good news is that many issues can be fixed with a little DIY know-how and the right guidance. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll take you through the process of disassembling your dishwasher step by step, so you can troubleshoot, maintain, or repair it with confidence. And the best part? We’ve created an accompanying video tutorial to make the process even easier for you!

Why Disassemble Your Dishwasher?

You might be wondering why you’d need to disassemble your dishwasher in the first place. Well, there are several good reasons:

1. Maintenance: Routine maintenance can prolong the life of your dishwasher and ensure it operates efficiently.
2. Troubleshooting: If your dishwasher isn’t working properly, disassembling it allows you to identify and address issues more effectively.
3. Repairs: In some cases, you may need to replace specific components, such as the control panel or heating element. Disassembly is the first step in making these repairs.

Step-by-Step Guide:

Our video tutorial, “Easily Disassemble Your Whirlpool Maytag KitchenAid Dishwasher: Step-by-Step Guide,” is designed to make dishwasher disassembly a breeze. It’s not just a walkthrough; it’s a hands-on journey through your dishwasher’s internal workings. To give you a taste of what’s in store, here’s a glimpse of what you’ll learn:

• How to Remove the Dishwasher: We’ll start with the basics, showing you how to safely and easily disconnect your dishwasher from its installation.
• Top Mounting Brackets: Learn the ins and outs of these essential brackets that secure your dishwasher in place.
• Touchpad Control Panel: Get familiar with the control hub of your dishwasher, allowing you to troubleshoot and maintain its electronic components.
• Main Control Board: Delve into the central command center of your dishwasher, understanding its functions and troubleshooting potential.
• Door Latch: Discover how to access and manage this crucial component responsible for secure door closure.
• Detergent Dispenser: Learn how to maintain and replace the dispenser responsible for delivering soap to your wash cycles.
• Door Seals: Explore the world of seals, including the lower door seal and door gasket seal, to ensure your dishwasher doesn’t leak.
• And More: We won’t leave you hanging—there’s a comprehensive breakdown of additional components like the upper dishrack adjuster, float switch, water inlet valve, drain pump, heating element, circulation pump motor, sump assembly, and more.

With our video tutorial and this accompanying guide, you’ll have the knowledge and confidence to tackle any dishwasher maintenance or repair project. Whether you’re a seasoned DIY enthusiast or simply aiming to save on repair costs, this resource empowers you to take control of your dishwasher’s maintenance and repair. Don’t forget to watch the video, subscribe for more appliance repair tips, and hit that notification bell to stay updated with our latest content. A well-maintained dishwasher means cleaner dishes and a happier kitchen!

If your dishwasher is not filling with water or filling with water while it is not in use then you should test the water inlet valve.  This free video shows step by step instructions on how to test your dishwashers water inlet valve.  Other videos online show to test the water inlet valve by ohming the solenoid on the valve.  This test is not very conclusive and it doesn’t actually tell you if the valve is working properly.  The testing process shown in the video below is the only conclusive way to test the valve.

If you find that you have a bad water inlet valve you can shop for a new one on our online store by searching with your appliances model number, or entering the part number off of the water valve here: https://partsdr.com/appliance-type/dishwasher-parts/valve-parts/ We sell new OEM appliance parts for Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, Estate, Roper, Frigidaire, Electrolux, Tappan, Westinghouse, Kitchen Aid, Jenn Air, Bosch, LG, Samsung, and more.

Items used to make test cord:

Cord:  https://partsdr.com/part/wx09x70910-power-cord/
Spade terminals: http://amzn.to/2u7aaGt
Crimping tool: http://amzn.to/2uZhQqL
Wire stripper: http://amzn.to/2t2uPGX

Items used to make battery pack:

Battery pack: http://amzn.to/2twY7Rj
AA Batteries: http://amzn.to/2tEeBFY
Spade terminals: http://amzn.to/2u7aaGt
Crimping tool: http://amzn.to/2uZhQqL
Wire stripper: http://amzn.to/2t2uPGX

Get Social With us!

http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=thepartsdr
https://www.facebook.com/PartsDr
https://twitter.com/parts_dr
https://plus.google.com/+PartsDr

If you found this video helpful please click the thumbs up button and leave us a comment below.

Video Transcript:

Hi, this is Ryan with Parts Dr and today I am going to show you how to test the water inlet valve on your dishwasher to see if it is good or bad.   Other videos online show to test the valve by measuring the resistance of the solenoids on the valve.  This test is not very conclusive and doesn’t actually tell you if the valve is working properly.  The testing process I am going to show you is the only conclusive way to determine if the water valve is working properly.
Water valves can fail in a variety of ways.  They can start to leak which can cause water to fill up inside the dishwasher when it is not in use.  They can also cause the dishwasher to not fill with enough water or not fill with water at all.

The first thing you will need to do is unplug or turn off the power to the dishwasher.  Next you will need to gain access to the water valve and look for a sticker or stamping in the metal on the side of the valve.  What we will first need to know is if the water valve is powered by AC or DC voltage and what the voltage rating is.  You should should see a sticker or stamping in the metal with information like this on the side of the valve.  To test the valve we are going to need to apply power to the valve to manually actuate the valve to see if it is working properly.

If your dishwasher has a AC voltage water valve, it is most likely powered by 110-120v AC power which is the standard power that comes from the power outlet in your house.  We are going to first need to make a test cord to apply power to the water valve.  To make a test cord you are going to need a power cord, two crimp on insulated terminals, and a crimping tool.  I will include links to the items we used to make the test cord in the description below.

If the wires are your test cord are not already exposed you will need to strip the insulation from them so they look like this.  On the power cord we are using here, the green is the ground wire and the white and black are the two power wires.  If the power cord you are using is not color coded, you will need to test each wire with a multimeter for continuity to see which wire is ground, hot, and neutral.  The green is the ground wire, the white is the neutral, and the black is the hot wire.  We will not be using the ground wire on the test cord, so we are going to cut that off.  Now we are going to crimp on an insulated 1/4” female spade terminal onto each of the white and black wires.  And now the test cord is done and ready to use.

If your dishwasher has a DC voltage water valve, it is most likely power by 12-14V DC power.  We are going to use a 12V battery pack that uses 8 AA batteries for our power supply.  This battery pack works nicely because it has wires coming out of it that we can crimp out spade terminals to and it also has an on/off switch that we can use to switch the power on and off.  You can also use any 12V DC battery that you can attach wires to.  To get the battery pack ready we are just going to need to crimp on a female spade terminal onto each of the two wires.  I will include links to the items we used for our battery back in the description below.

Next we need to inspect the valve to see what style wire terminals it has.  There are two common styles of terminals we see on most water inlet valves.  Most either have two 1/4” male spade terminals, or two smaller pins that stick out of the valve.  If your valve has the 1/4” spade terminals, we will be able to directly connect our test cord or battery pack directly to the valve.

If the valve has two pins, we will need to cut the wiring harness a few inches away from the valve.  Next we will strip all four wires using a wire stripper.  On one side of the harness we will crimp on two male spade terminals.  And on the other side of the harness we will crimp on two female spade terminals.  This will allow us to connect our power source to the water valve and reconnect the harness back together when we are done.

To test the valve you will need to make sure the water is turned on to the dishwasher and the water supply to the dishwasher is flowing at a good rate.  Let the valve sit for little while and make sure no water leaks from the outlet of the valve.  If the water valve leaks when there is no power supplied to the valve then it is bad and should be replaced.

Next connect the battery pack or test cord to the water valve.  It does not matter which wire goes to which terminal.  Now turn on your power supply or plug in your test cord.  If the water valve is good, the water should flow out of the valve at a steady rate.  If no water comes out of the valve or the water flow seems restricted or slow then you should replace the valve.  The water flow rate should be about that same as the water supply line to the dishwasher.  You can also check your dishwashers owners manual or installation instructions for the manufactures recommended water supply specifications for the psi and flow rate.  Do not apply power to the water valve for more than 1 minute at a time before letting it cool down for a few minutes as it can damage the valve.

If the flow rate on your water valve is slow, it can be caused by sediment that has built up on the screen of the valve or inside the valve.  On most water inlet valves the screen is not removable.  Do not try to disassemble the water valve to try to clean it.  We often see people try to do this and it will almost always result in leaking afterwards which can flood and damage your house.  For the cost of replacing the water inlet valve it is not worth damaging your house.

If you find that you have a bad water inlet valve and you need to purchase a new one, you can purchase one from our online store by clicking the link in the description below.  Please be careful when shopping water inlet valves as many stores sell lower quality aftermarket water valves.  You can be assured when you purchase from Parts Dr that you will receive a new OEM water valve.

Please subscribe to our youtube channel for more appliance repair videos, and if you found this video helpful please click the thumbs up button below.  You can also stay up to date by liking us on our Facebook page, and following us on Twitter.

Kenmore is a popular appliance brand sold by Sears.  Sears does not manufacture any of the appliances themselves, instead they source that out and have other manufacturers make their appliances for them.  You can easily decode the model number of the appliance to tell you who made your Kenmore appliance.

The first three digits in a Kenmore model can will tell you who manufactured the appliance for Sears.  For example model number 110.45862400, the first three digits are 110 so that would tell you that Whirlpool manufactured the appliance.  Some of the more common appliance manufacturers Sears uses is Whirlpool, Frigidaire, LG, and GE. If you are looking for parts for your Kenmore appliance your can search for the model number in the search box at the top of the page.

Prefix	Manufacturer	Prefix	Manufacturer
103	Roper	629	Jenn Air
106	Whirlpool	647	Roper
110	Whirlpool	651	Speed Queen
119	Frigidaire	664	Whirlpool
143	SFS Corp. (Sanyo/Fisher)	665	Whirlpool
144	Trane	666	KitchenAid
155	Preway	683	Philco
174	Caloric	719	Tappan (Frigidaire)
175	In-Sink-Erator	721	Goldstar (LG Electronics)
198	Whirlpool	747	Litton
233	Broan	757	Marvel, Imperial
253	Gibson (Frigidaire)	789	Defience
274	RCA	790	WCI (Frigidaire)
278	Roper	791	Tappan (Frigidaire)
292	Lennox	795	LG ( Refrigerators )
335	Amana	796	LG (Laundry)
336	Electrolux	835	Roper
342	York	840	Friedrich
362	GE	850	Whirlpool (Chambers)
363	GE	867	Keeprite
401	Samsung	879	Rheem/Ruud
416	Carrier	911	Roper
417	Kelvinator (Frigidaire)	917	Roper (Whirlpool)
464	GE	925	Maycor (Maytag)
473	Hoover	934	Hitachi
484	Fedders, Whirlpool	960	Caloric
562	Toshiba	970	Frigidaire
564	Sanyo	C106.	Inglis
565	Sanyo	C110.	Inglis
566	Sanyo	C362.	Camco
568	Panisonic	C363.	Camco
575	Sharp	C646.	Admiral (Inglis)
580	Goldstar (LG Electronics)	C675.	Woods
586	Panisonic	C880.	Admiral (Inglis)
587	DM (Frigidaire)	C933.	Kelvinator (Before 1970)
596	Amana	C938.	Keeprite
622	Kelvinator (Frigidaire)	C970.	Kelvinator (1970+)
628	Kelvinator (Frigidaire)	C978.	Camco

Most dishwashers use a water inlet valve with a electronic solenoid to allow the dishwasher to fill up with water.  The dishwasher will use either a Timer or Control board to tell the dishwasher when to fill up with water and for how long to fill up with water.  Most dishwashers do not measure how much water is filling up into the dishwasher, instead they fill up with water for a certain amount of time.  60-120 seconds is a common amount of time for a dishwasher to fill up with water, but it will vary depending on the make and model of the dishwasher.

it might only fill up with 50% or 75% of the water it was supposed to

On the inlet side of the water valve there is a screen.  The purpose of this screen is to keep
sediment out of the insides of the valve.  If any small objects get into the valve it can cause it not to work or to leak and flood your house/floor.  Over time the inlet screen on the valve will get hard water deposits and other debri stuck in the screen which clogs up water valve and causes it not to flow as well.  So now when the dishwasher calls to fill up with water for XX seconds, it might only fill up with 50% or 75% of the water it was supposed to.  Symptoms of a clogged water valve can be poor washing, surging sound from the pump, and soap not washing out of the dispenser.

When this happens I always recommend replacing the water valve.  I have seen many people try to “clean” out the screens, and by doing this the valve developed a leak and cause thousands of dollars in damage to their house.  Most water valves are pretty inexpensive ($15-$75), so I recommend to just replace the valve if you see that the screen is clogged up.

To check to see if your valve has a clogged screen, pull it off the dishwasher and look inside the inlet side of the valve.

Here is an example of a clogged screen on a water valve:

Here is a good clean screen on a water valve:

In order to find the age of a Whirlpool built appliance you will need the serial number from the appliance.  Since Whirlpool manufactures appliances under many different names, this may work with some of these brand names also:

Whirlpool, Kenmore (Sears), Maytag (Newer models), Kitchen Aid, Estate, Inglis, Roper, Amana, Jenn Air, Crosley and more.

Please do not contact our company for assistance trying to determine the age of your appliance as we will be unable to help.  If the information on this page does not answer your question please contact the manufacture directly for futher assistance.

Serial Number Example:

CR3949348

1st Digit: Where the appliance was manufactured. C = Clyde, OH.

2nd Digit: Year Manufactured.  R = 2004

3rd & 4th Digit: Week the appliance was manufactured.  39 = 39th week of the year.

5th-9th Digit: Manufacture order that week

See the charts below for the year codes:

Whirlpool Model Number Codes
A letter in the model number indicates the year the model was introduced. Please note that the year the model was introduced to NOT indicate the production date. For models 1981 and older you will reference the 2nd character in the model number, and on models produced after 1981 you will reference the 8th character in the model number. Please reference the charts below for the year codes: