Category Archives: Washer

If you have a GE top load washing machine that is not spinning, intermittently not spin up, or has wet Loads of clothes in the tub after the cycle is done then you may need to update the software on your washing machine. Please check to see if your washing machines model number and serial number are in the affected lists below. These washing machines were manufactured between May 2015 and April 2018.

Models affected:

Serial numbers affected: HF – GL (May 2015 – April 2018)

Upon entering fault code test 1 in service mode, technicians will find out of balance fault 26 has been set. Washers will spin normally in service mode test 14, but will not spin outside of service mode.

Repair: Factory Service Technicians – Use NewFI to update washer software with latest version. Customer Care Technicians – Order Software Update Module (SUM) WH98R23015001 (PD00045310). Instructions to update software are included with the SUM.

If acceptable, consumers can update washer software on their own without an additional service call with a SUM.

This update fixes a falsely detected out of balance condition.

Software update version numbers will display as follows:

For models built beginning in 2015, software version 1.11.3.15, parametric version 3.15.1.0

For models built beginning in 2017, software version 2.11.5.26, parametric version 5.26.1.0

How to purchase:

If you need to purchase a Software Update Module (SUM), you can purchase one from our online store by clicking the link below.

Software Update Module – Part # WH98R23015001 (PD00045310)

Kenmore is a popular appliance brand sold by Sears.  Sears does not manufacture any of the appliances themselves, instead they source that out and have other manufacturers make their appliances for them.  You can easily decode the model number of the appliance to tell you who made your Kenmore appliance.

The first three digits in a Kenmore model can will tell you who manufactured the appliance for Sears.  For example model number 110.45862400, the first three digits are 110 so that would tell you that Whirlpool manufactured the appliance.  Some of the more common appliance manufacturers Sears uses is Whirlpool, Frigidaire, LG, and GE. If you are looking for parts for your Kenmore appliance your can search for the model number in the search box at the top of the page.

Some Samsung top loading washing machine models that are experiencing a UE or DC error code or the washing machine is unbalanced during the spin cycle should upgrade the suspension damper rod assemblies to a new improved design.  Each washing machine uses four suspension damper rod assemblies, one for each corner of the washer.  Please use the chart below with the model number and manufacture date to determine if you need the new suspension dampers.

Old suspension damper assemblies are 4.93mm and the new one suspension damper assemblies are 6.50mm

The model and serial number tag is normally located on the top back console of the washer, and it will list the model number, serial number, and manufacture date. The manufacture date is listed in the format of YYYY.MM (ex: 2012.06). Below is an example model and serial number tag to show where the manufacture date is located.

The serial number can also be decoded using the chart below to determine the manufacture date.

If you need to purchase a new suspension rod, please click the link below to purchase this part from our online store:

Damper Rod Assembly – Part # PD00023778 (mfg # DC97-05280W)

Instructions on how to replace Samsung Damper Rods in the video below.

Some Whirlpool Cabrio, Kenmore Oasis, and Maytag Bravos direct drive top loading model washers have a bearing kit that can be used to replace the tub bearings and seal when they go bad.  When the tub bearings fail the washer can get very noisy during the spin cycle.  Some people describe the sound as sounding like a train or jet after it reaches its high speed during the spin cycle.  If you do not fix the problem with the bearings and keep using the washer you will eventually ruin the tub seal and water will start leaking from the bottom of the washer and water will spray onto the floor and bottom components of the washer.  This water will often look dark and grease colored that starts to leak from the washer at first.  If you find that you have bad tub bearings it is best to replace them sooner than later as it is much easier to replace the components.  If you let the problem go on for too long the bearings can rust into place or come apart while trying to remove them from the washing machine.  When the bearings fail the washer will also no longer spin concentrically which can cause the washer to go out of balance easier and sometimes display an “uL” (unbalanced load) error code).

What is needed for the repair?

If you find that you have bad tub bearings and need to replace them, you will first need to check with the model number from the tag on your washing machine to see if your washer is compatible with bearing kit part number PD00002260 (mfg # W10435302).  We have a list at the bottom of this page with the most common model numbers that this kit is compatible with.  If you do not see your model number listed there, please leave us a comment at the bottom of this page and with your model number and we will let you know if this kit is compatible with your model washer.  This kit does not work with any models that have a belt and gearcase.  This bearing kit includes both upper and lower tub bearings, tub seal, drive shaft, shaft nut, adhesive, grease, spacer tube, and instructions.  The bearings and tub seal in this kit are not sold separately.  The only other thing you will we need to provide are the tools listed below and a person capable of installing the bearing kit.

Tools Needed:

• 1-1/4″ Wrench/Socket
• 7/16″ Wrench/Socket
• 1/4″ Hex Driver
• Hammer

Special Tools Required:

• Tub Press Tool Kit (Part # PD00004958)
  • Includes the three tools below
  • Bearing Press Tool Assembly
  • Bearing Removal Rod
  • Tub Seal Press Tool

You can purchase the bearing kit and tool kit from our online store by clicking the links below.

Tub Bearing Shaft & Seal Kit – Part # PD00002260 (mfg # W10435302)

Tub Press Tool Kit – Part # PD00004958 (mfg # W10447783)

Below are the manufactures installation instructions for the bearing kit.  We have added our own notes and tips that we have highlighted in orange lettering.

1. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
2. Tape lid shut before opening top. Open top. See Figure 1.
Parts Dr Tip: Use a putty knife to depress the two locking tabs (one on the left and right sides) to release and lift up the top.

3. Remove hose clamp and hose from tub ring.
4. Remove tub ring.
5. Remove cap from either wash plate or agitator. See Figure 2.

6. Remove 7/16” bolt. Lift and remove basket assembly with wash plate/agitator. See Figure 3.

7. Slide washer out and tip back on hoses.
8. Using a 1⁄4” Hex Driver, remove rotor bolt and rotor. See Figure 4

9. Remove four (4) stator bolts (5/16” or 3/8”). Unclip wire harness and remove stator and shield. Set stator on a clean rag on the floor. See Figure 5.

10. Remove Shaft Nut. See Figure 6.

11. Remove drive shaft and seal (with hammer). See Figure 7.

12. Tip washer forward off the hoses and remove drive shaft and seal from tub. See Figure 8.

13. Drive Bottom Bearing, Bottom Bearing Washer, and Spacer Tube out using Removal Rod and hammer. See Figure 9.

14. Tip washer back on hoses and drive Top Bearing out using Removal Rod and hammer. Discard all parts. See Figure 10.

15. Tip washer forward off of hoses.
16. Clean bearing and seal areas with a rag. Check the weep hole (make sure it is not plugged). See Figure 11.

17. Install Top Bearing and press into the tub.
18. Place Tub Press Tool Assembly (without the Bottom Bearing Press, Thrust Bearing, and Bottom Press Nut) over new Top Bearing. NOTE: Ensure LOCKING BAR of Tub Press Tool Assembly is located in sump area. See Figure 12.

19. Tip washer back on hoses.
20. Install onto Press Rod; new Spacer Tube, new Bottom Bearing Washer, and new Bottom Bearing. Then install tool parts: Bottom Bearing Press, Thrust Bearing, and Bottom Press Nut. See Figure 13.

21. Tighten Bottom Press Nut until bearings bottom out. Then back the Bottom Press Nut off and remove. See Figure 14. NOTE: Final position of bottom bearing will extend from bottom of tub by 1/8” to 3/16” (3 to 5mm).

22. Tip washer forward off the hoses and remove the Tub Press Tool Assembly.
23. Install new Drive Shaft (make sure wear sleeve is bottomed out on Top Bearing). See Figure 15. NOTE: If necessary, tap shaft with hammer to install.

24. Tip washer back onto hoses. Install new Shaft Nut and tighten. See Figure 16.

25. Reconnect wiring harness to stator.
26. Reinstall stator and shield. Check for proper location.
27. Reinstall rotor.
28. Tip washer forward off the hoses.
29. Locate Tub Seal and Grease. Apply grease to both cavities inside Tub Seal lip. See Figure 17.

30. Apply the Pliobond Adhesive in a continuous bead around bottom of Tub Seal to enter tub first. Verify grease is inside the seal. See Figure 18.

31. Push Tub Seal into place using the Seal Press Tool and hammer until it bottoms out. Add a bead of Pliobond Adhesive to top edge of seal and tub (spread out with finger). See Figure 19.
Parts Dr Tip: The Closed side of seal should face up and the open end of the seal with the spring should face down.

32. Reinstall basket.
33. Reinstall tub ring, hose, and hose clamp.
34. Close top.
35. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
36. Verify repair by performing Diagnostic Test.

Compatible Model Numbers:

7MMVWB850WL0, MTW6300TQ1, MTW6500TQ0, MTW6600TB0, MTW6600TQ0, MTW6600TQ1, MTW6700TQ0, MTW6700TQ1, MVWB300WQ0, MVWB300WQ1, MVWB300WQ2, MVWB400VQ0, MVWB450WQ0, MVWB450WQ1, MVWB450WQ2, MVWB455YQ0, MVWB700VQ0, MVWB750WB0, MVWB750WB1, MVWB750YW0, MVWB750WL1, MVWB750WL2, MVWB750WQ0, MVWB750WQ1, MVWB750WQ2, MVWB750WR0, MVWB750WR1, MVWB750WR2, MVWB755YL0, MVWB755YQ0, MVWB755YR0, MVWB800VB0, MVWB800VQ0, MVWB800VU0, MVWB850WB0, MVWB850WB1, MVWB850WL0, MVWB850WL1, MVWB850WL2, MVWB850WQ0, MVWB850WQ1, MVWB850WQ2, MVWB850WR0, MVWB850WR1, MVWB850WR2, WTW6200SW0, WTW6200SW1, WTW6200SW2, WTW6200SW3, WTW6200VW0, WTW6200VW1, WTW6300SB0, WTW6300SB1, WTW6300SG0, WTW6300SG1, WTW6300SW0, WTW6300SW1, WTW6300WW0, WTW6340WW0, WTW6400SW0, WTW6400SW1, WTW6400SW2, WTW6400SW3, WTW6500WW1, WTW6600SB0, WTW6600SB1, WTW6600SB2, WTW6600SB3, WTW6600SG0, WTW6600SG1, WTW6600SG2, WTW6600SG3, WTW6600SW0, WTW6600SW1, WTW6600SW2, WTW6600SW3, WTW6700TU1, WTW6700TU2, WTW6700TW0, WTW6700TW1, WTW6700TW2, WTW6800WB1, WTW6800WL1, WTW6800WW1, WTW7300XW1, WTW7300XW2, WTW7320YW0, WTW7340XW0, WTW7340XW1, WTW7340XW2, WTW7600XW0, WTW7600XW1, WTW7600XW2, WTW7800XB0, WTW7800XB2, WTW7800XL0, WTW7800XL2, WTW7800XL3, WTW7800XW0, WTW7800XW1, WTW7990XG1, WTW8800YC0, WTW8240YW0, WTW7800XW2, WTW7800XW3,110.27087601

If you have any questions, comments, or tips that you think will help others doing this repair please post them in the comments section below.

Some newer washing machines built by Whirlpool use a lid lock and latch to keep the lid from being able to be opened while the washer is in use.  This is a safety feature to keep someone from getting hurt if they were to open the lid while the washer was running.  Sometimes the lid lock can fail and cause the washer not to start.  The most common symptom that the lid lock has when it fails is the washer makes a clicking sound but it won’t start.  The lid lock can also fail if someone has forced the lid open while it was locked.  This lid lock assembly is used on some Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana, and Crosley washing machines.

How To Replace The W10404050 Lid Lock & Latch Assembly

First, unplug the washer before working on it.  Place a piece duct tape to secure the washer lid from opening.

Remove the two top 1/4″ screws from the left and right brackets on the back of the washer.

Now you will be able to pull the whole top of the washer about 3/8″ forward.  This will release the top from the front locking tabs and allow you to lift the top of the washer up.

Remove the two screws to the lid lock assembly.

Remove the wire harness from the clip and depress the left and right console mounting clips by squeezing them from the underside.

This will allow you to rotate the console backwards.

Squeeze the two tabs to remove the wire harness from where it goes through the frame of the washer.

Depress the two tabs on the wire connector to pull it out from the control board.  Remove the wire harness from the mounting clip.

The lid lock & latch assembly is now free.  Take the old one out, and replace the new one in the reverse order.  Don’t forget to replace the included trim bezel at the same time.

Where Can I Buy A Replacement Lid Lock?

You can buy a replacement lid lock assembly from our website.  Please click the link below.  Parts Dr always has the lowest prices for new O.E.M. replacement parts.

Lid Lock & Latch Assembly – Part # W10404050

LG has made a design change and added a drain hole on some front load washer door boot gaskets.  If the washer was produced in August 2007 or earlier, you will need to order the gasket without the drain hole.  For washers produced from September 2007 and later, it is necessary to check and see if they were manufactured with a door boot gasket with our without a drain hole.  To determine which part is correct for your washing machine, we have provided a model number to part number cross reference chart at the bottom of this post.

Comparison pictures of the old part (no drain hole) versus the newer style part (with drain hole).  This drain hole is located at the bottom 6 o’clock position of the the gasket.

Match up your washers model number using the model and serial number tag on the washing machine.  Once you have located the correct part number from the chart below, you can click on the part number to order the gasket from our online store.

To improve quality Samsung has relocated the drain pump assembly from the bottom of the tub to the base of the washer on certain model numbers and production dates.  Previously these washers used part number DC97-16985A for the drain pump but this pump has been discontinued and replaced with one of the two service kits part # DC98-01877A or DC98-01877B depending on the model number and manufacture date of the washer.  First locate your model and serial number tag on the washing machine.  This tag is located on the top back console of the washer, and it will list the model number, serial number, and manufacture date. The manufacture date is listed in the format of YYYY.MM (ex: 2012.06).  Below is an example model and serial number tag to show where the manufacture date is located.

If the washer was manufactured before 12/9/2012 and you have one of the qualifying models, then you will need to order the corresponding drain pump kit listed in the chart below.  Washers manufactured 12/10/2012 and later use part number PD00030925 for the drain pump and do not require the drain pump relocation kit.  Please not that the manufacture date is listed in the format of YYYY.MM (ex: 2012.06) on the tag of the washer and it will not show the day it was manufactured.  If the washer was manufactured in the month of December of 2012 you will need to check the washer to see if the pump is located on the bottom of the tub.  If the pump is located on the bottom of the tub you will need to order a drain pump relocation kit.  For installation instructions, please see the bottom of this post.

When the drain pump fails it can cause water to leak from the pump or it can cause the water not to drain out of the washing machine.

If you need to order one of the drain pump kits, you can click one of the links in the the above chart, or one of the links below. Parts Dr always has the lowest prices on OEM appliances parts.

Drain Pump Kit – PD00004957 (MFG# DC98-01877B)

Models WA400PJHDWR/AA & WA422PRHDWR/AA manufactured before 12/9/2012.

Drain Pump Kit –  PD00004977 (MFG# DC98-01877A)

Models WA456DRHDSU/AA & WA456DRHDWR/AA manufactured before 12/9/2012.

Replacing the 34001320 drain pump on your Maytag Neptune washer is easy to do. This pump is found on many newer Maytag Neptune washing machines. When this pump goes bad or jams up (something gets stuck in the impeller), the washer will display an “ND” (No Drain) error code. Here is on how replace the drain pump:

The drain pump is located in the back of the washer.

First unplug the washer.

Then remove the two screws holding on the back panel.

Slide the panel up, and then pull out to remove the panel.

You should now see the pump on the left hand side. Remove the electrical connector (left red arrow).

Before removing the hose clamps, have a wet shop vac ready to suck up the water. I usually try to suck all of the water through the drain hose by putting the hose from the vacuum on the end of the drain hose and sealing the gap with my hand. If that doesn’t work then slowly remove one of the drain hoses and try to suck up all of the water before removing the hose all of the way.

Once all of the water is drained out then removed both hose clamps (middle and right red arrow). You’ll notice the clamps in the picture look different than the clamps that come with the washer. The clamps that come from the factory are weak and often leak, I would recommend upgrading these to worm gear style clamps while you have this apart.

Next remove the three 1/2 inch bolts holding the pump to the base of the washer (3 orange arrows).

With the pump removed look for anything stuck in the pump, and look to see that the three blades on the impeller look good. If the pump is bad, replace the pump.

Reassemble in the reverse order.

If you have a bad drain pump and need to purchase a new one, please click the link below:

Drain Pump Assembly – 34001320

If part number 34001320 is not available, you can use part number DC96-00774A in its place.

Drain Pump Assembly – DC96-00774A

Whirlpool Duet front loading washers use a motor on top of the dispenser assembly to switch the water in the dispenser between washing out the soap, bleach, and fabric softener compartments of the dispenser.  When the washer first starts, it tests to see if the dispenser is working correctly.  If it senses a problem, it won’t start the wash cycle and it will eventually come up with an F30 error code.  The F-30 error code means that there is a “dispenser system error”.

There are a few things that can cause the F30 error code to occur.  Here is what you will need to check:

• First unplug the washer and remove the 3 mounting screws securing the top panel on the back side of the washer.  Slide the top panel backwards to remove.
• Check the linkage going from the dispenser motor to the dispenser.  Make sure that the are no obstructions.
• Check the wiring and electrical connections going from the dispenser motor and the main control board (CCU).
• If the dispenser motor is turning but making clicking noises or continually turns, then the dispenser motor has probably failed and will need to be replaced.
• If everything else checks out okay, then the central control unit (CCU) will need to be replaced.

Here is how to replace the W10352973 dispenser/detergent motor:

• First unplug the washer before working on it
• Now remove the top panel by removing the three T-20 torx screws and sliding the top panel towards the back of the washer to release it
• Next remove the wire connectors to the dispenser motor.  Lift the locking tabs and pull them out to remove.  (Note:  when re-installing, the connector with the blue stripe on it goes on the top)
• Remove the cam actuator from the motor shaft by gently prying up on it to unsnap it from the motor shaft.
• Remove the mounting screw(s)
• Re-install in the reverse order

If you have a bad detergent dispenser motor and need to order a new one for your washer, please click the link below.  Please note the part number listed below is the common dispenser motor found on Whirlpool Duet models, the smaller Duet Sport models commonly use part number W10143586.  Please search by your model number or contact us with your model number so we can verify you are ordering the correct part number.

Some newer top load washing machines built by Whirlpool (also found under the Maytag and Kenmore brand names) use a load sensing switch to control the water level inside the washer.  On older washers this part was called a pressure switch.  This sensor switch is located in the top console of the washer, and is usually labeled as the water temperature control (A.T.C. control).  This switch senses the load inside the washer, and automatically adjusts the water level in the tub to the proper level.

Common symptoms that this part has when it fails are: filling with water at the very end of the cycle and agitating while filling with water.  Whirlpool has not released information on how to test this part out, so you will have to narrow down your problem with a process of elimination.  Other parts that can cause similar symptoms to a bad load sense switch are a bad timer, water inlet valve, and a clogged or kinked pressure hose (blowing through this is a good way to make sure it is clear).

If you are having repeated failures of this part, please check to make sure that the drain hose of the washing machine is at least 42″ from the floor and that it is draining into an open stand pipe or laundry tub.  If the drain hose is too low or the pipe/tub that the washing is draining into is not draining at a quick enough rate it can cause the water in the washer to be siphoned out which can damage the sensor switch and cause it to fail.

Here is how to replace the W10248240 Load Sensing Switch
First unplug the washing machine before working on it.

The sensor switch is labeled as the water temperature switch.  Remove this knob.

Next, you will need to access the top console.  This is done by using a putty knife to depress the two clips on the left & right hand sides.  Some models may use two Phillips screws on the back side of the washer to secure the console.  The console will then rotate back and out of the way.

Here is the console flipped out of the way

With the console flipped back and out of the way you will now have access to the sensor switch.  Remove the pressure hose and the two wire connectors going to the switch.  Then to remove the switch from the console you will need to lift up on the tab on the right hand side, and then rotate the switch 1/4 turn counter-clockwise to remove.

Re-install in the new part in the reverse order.

If you have a bad sensor switch and need to purchase a new one, please click one of the links below.  There are two different sensor switches and you can either check to see if your model number is listed below or you can get the part number from the back of the old part to make sure you are ordering the correct part number.

Temperature Sensor Switch – W10248240
Compatible model numbers: 110.29822801, 110.29832801, 1CWTW57ESVW1, MVWC5ESXW0, MVWC6ESWW1, MVWC7ESWW0, WTW57ESVH1, WTW57ESVW1, WTW58ESVW1

Pressure Sensor Switch – W10292584
Compatible model numbers: 110.29822800, 110.29832800, 1CWTW57ESVW0, MVWC6ESWW0, WTW57ESVH0, WTW57ESVW0, WTW58ESVW0