Monthly Archives: July 2014

LG has made a design change and added a drain hole on some front load washer door boot gaskets.  If the washer was produced in August 2007 or earlier, you will need to order the gasket without the drain hole.  For washers produced from September 2007 and later, it is necessary to check and see if they were manufactured with a door boot gasket with our without a drain hole.  To determine which part is correct for your washing machine, we have provided a model number to part number cross reference chart at the bottom of this post.

Comparison pictures of the old part (no drain hole) versus the newer style part (with drain hole).  This drain hole is located at the bottom 6 o’clock position of the the gasket.

Match up your washers model number using the model and serial number tag on the washing machine.  Once you have located the correct part number from the chart below, you can click on the part number to order the gasket from our online store.

To improve quality Samsung has relocated the drain pump assembly from the bottom of the tub to the base of the washer on certain model numbers and production dates.  Previously these washers used part number DC97-16985A for the drain pump but this pump has been discontinued and replaced with one of the two service kits part # DC98-01877A or DC98-01877B depending on the model number and manufacture date of the washer.  First locate your model and serial number tag on the washing machine.  This tag is located on the top back console of the washer, and it will list the model number, serial number, and manufacture date. The manufacture date is listed in the format of YYYY.MM (ex: 2012.06).  Below is an example model and serial number tag to show where the manufacture date is located.

If the washer was manufactured before 12/9/2012 and you have one of the qualifying models, then you will need to order the corresponding drain pump kit listed in the chart below.  Washers manufactured 12/10/2012 and later use part number PD00030925 for the drain pump and do not require the drain pump relocation kit.  Please not that the manufacture date is listed in the format of YYYY.MM (ex: 2012.06) on the tag of the washer and it will not show the day it was manufactured.  If the washer was manufactured in the month of December of 2012 you will need to check the washer to see if the pump is located on the bottom of the tub.  If the pump is located on the bottom of the tub you will need to order a drain pump relocation kit.  For installation instructions, please see the bottom of this post.

When the drain pump fails it can cause water to leak from the pump or it can cause the water not to drain out of the washing machine.

If you need to order one of the drain pump kits, you can click one of the links in the the above chart, or one of the links below. Parts Dr always has the lowest prices on OEM appliances parts.

Drain Pump Kit – PD00004957 (MFG# DC98-01877B)

Models WA400PJHDWR/AA & WA422PRHDWR/AA manufactured before 12/9/2012.

Drain Pump Kit –  PD00004977 (MFG# DC98-01877A)

Models WA456DRHDSU/AA & WA456DRHDWR/AA manufactured before 12/9/2012.

Parts Dr is proud to announce the launch of our new website! Don’t worry, we are have not changed our ownership and we still have the lowest prices for OEM appliance parts with the best customer service. Our new website offers many new features to our customers to make it easier to order appliance parts. Our new website features a responsive design so whether you are using a desktop computer, tablet, or smart phone, you will be able to easily find parts and place orders. If you created an account on our old website, you will need to register and create a new account on our new website. In your account you can edit your billing and shipping information (we do not store your credit card information), change your password, view previous orders, and manage stock notifications.

To search for parts you can simply click one of the three links at the top of the page to search by part number, model number, or by appliance type.  If you do not know which part number is correct, search with your appliances model number to look up the correct part number for your model appliance.

Newer style GE refrigerators all use a motherboard on the back side of the refrigerator to control most of the functions on the refrigerator. If you start to hear a constant “clicking” sound every few seconds coming from the back side of the refrigerator, the motherboard might have failed. Pull the refrigerator out while it is still making the noise and listen to where the sound is coming from. You should see a panel on the back of the refrigerator, behind this panel is the control board (make sure not to touch the control board while the refrigerator is plugged in, you may get shocked or electrocuted).

Behind this panel is the control board.

If the noise seems to be coming from the control board, then the control board has failed and it will need to be replaced. GE does not sell replacement parts for the control board, so the whole control board must be replaced if there is a problem with the control board. When the control board fails it can cause the refrigerator not to run or cool. It also controls the water dispenser, fan motors, and more. Most of the GE & Hotpoint refrigerators use part number WR55X10942 control board. Some higher end GE model refrigerators with variable speed compressors use part number WR49X10152 for the control board. Replacing the motherboard is easy, and only takes about 15 minutes. Always be sure to look up the correct control board with the model number from the refrigerator first before ordering.

If you need to purchase a control board for you refrigerator please click the link below to visit our parts store.  We usually have the lowest price on the internet for these control boards.  If you have any questions or comments please post them in the comments section below.

GE Refrigerator Main Control Board – WR55X10942

Newer Frigidaire and Kenmore dryers use a thermistor sensor to control the temperature inside the dryer. A thermistor is a type of resistor that varies it’s resistance with the change in temperature. When the thermistor fails, it can cause the dryer to not heat at all, get too hot, or sometimes it will throw an E24, E25, or F02 error code (open or shorted thermistor) on some models.

Here is how to check/test the Frigidaire 134587700 thermistor:

• Before working on your clothes dryer, make sure it is unplugged.
• First remove the thermistor sensor from the dryer. The thermistor is located on the blower housing next to the blower wheel.
• With the thermistor removed from the dryer, you will need to use an ohm meter or multi-meter to measure the resistance of the thermistor.
• Place one of each of the probes from the meter on each terminal of thermistor. With the thermistor at room temperature, the thermistor should read approximately 50-53k ohms. If the thermistor is off by more than 10% then the sensor will need to be replaced.

Here is a reading from a bad sensor (0.05k ohms):

If you have a bad thermistor sensor and need to purchase a new one, please click the link below:

Dryer Thermistor Control – 134587700

Replacing the 34001320 drain pump on your Maytag Neptune washer is easy to do. This pump is found on many newer Maytag Neptune washing machines. When this pump goes bad or jams up (something gets stuck in the impeller), the washer will display an “ND” (No Drain) error code. Here is on how replace the drain pump:

The drain pump is located in the back of the washer.

First unplug the washer.

Then remove the two screws holding on the back panel.

Slide the panel up, and then pull out to remove the panel.

You should now see the pump on the left hand side. Remove the electrical connector (left red arrow).

Before removing the hose clamps, have a wet shop vac ready to suck up the water. I usually try to suck all of the water through the drain hose by putting the hose from the vacuum on the end of the drain hose and sealing the gap with my hand. If that doesn’t work then slowly remove one of the drain hoses and try to suck up all of the water before removing the hose all of the way.

Once all of the water is drained out then removed both hose clamps (middle and right red arrow). You’ll notice the clamps in the picture look different than the clamps that come with the washer. The clamps that come from the factory are weak and often leak, I would recommend upgrading these to worm gear style clamps while you have this apart.

Next remove the three 1/2 inch bolts holding the pump to the base of the washer (3 orange arrows).

With the pump removed look for anything stuck in the pump, and look to see that the three blades on the impeller look good. If the pump is bad, replace the pump.

Reassemble in the reverse order.

If you have a bad drain pump and need to purchase a new one, please click the link below:

Drain Pump Assembly – 34001320

If part number 34001320 is not available, you can use part number DC96-00774A in its place.

Drain Pump Assembly – DC96-00774A

Replacing the bake heating element on your Frigidaire built range is very easy.  In most cases, it should only take about 10 minutes.  The most common element used in Frigidaire ovens is part number 316075103.  This is the newest version of this element, some of the older part numbers for this element were 316075104 and 316075102, but they have been replaced with the newer 316075103 part number.

Note – This element is made by Frigidaire, but it may also found in these other brands:  Admiral, Crosley, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Montgomery Wards, Tappan, White Westinghouse

Here is how to replace the 316075103 in your range:

First, before working on the stove, make sure it is unplugged.

Next, open the door and remove both of the oven racks.

Now remove the two 1/4″ hex head mounting screws on the back oven wall using a 1/4″ nut driver or socket.

Reinstall the new heating element in the reverse order.

If your heating element is burned out and you need to order a new one, click the link below:

Frigidaire Bake Heating Element – 316075103 (PD00046042)

Whirlpool Duet front loading washers use a motor on top of the dispenser assembly to switch the water in the dispenser between washing out the soap, bleach, and fabric softener compartments of the dispenser.  When the washer first starts, it tests to see if the dispenser is working correctly.  If it senses a problem, it won’t start the wash cycle and it will eventually come up with an F30 error code.  The F-30 error code means that there is a “dispenser system error”.

There are a few things that can cause the F30 error code to occur.  Here is what you will need to check:

• First unplug the washer and remove the 3 mounting screws securing the top panel on the back side of the washer.  Slide the top panel backwards to remove.
• Check the linkage going from the dispenser motor to the dispenser.  Make sure that the are no obstructions.
• Check the wiring and electrical connections going from the dispenser motor and the main control board (CCU).
• If the dispenser motor is turning but making clicking noises or continually turns, then the dispenser motor has probably failed and will need to be replaced.
• If everything else checks out okay, then the central control unit (CCU) will need to be replaced.

Here is how to replace the W10352973 dispenser/detergent motor:

• First unplug the washer before working on it
• Now remove the top panel by removing the three T-20 torx screws and sliding the top panel towards the back of the washer to release it
• Next remove the wire connectors to the dispenser motor.  Lift the locking tabs and pull them out to remove.  (Note:  when re-installing, the connector with the blue stripe on it goes on the top)
• Remove the cam actuator from the motor shaft by gently prying up on it to unsnap it from the motor shaft.
• Remove the mounting screw(s)
• Re-install in the reverse order

If you have a bad detergent dispenser motor and need to order a new one for your washer, please click the link below.  Please note the part number listed below is the common dispenser motor found on Whirlpool Duet models, the smaller Duet Sport models commonly use part number W10143586.  Please search by your model number or contact us with your model number so we can verify you are ordering the correct part number.

Some newer top load washing machines built by Whirlpool (also found under the Maytag and Kenmore brand names) use a load sensing switch to control the water level inside the washer.  On older washers this part was called a pressure switch.  This sensor switch is located in the top console of the washer, and is usually labeled as the water temperature control (A.T.C. control).  This switch senses the load inside the washer, and automatically adjusts the water level in the tub to the proper level.

Common symptoms that this part has when it fails are: filling with water at the very end of the cycle and agitating while filling with water.  Whirlpool has not released information on how to test this part out, so you will have to narrow down your problem with a process of elimination.  Other parts that can cause similar symptoms to a bad load sense switch are a bad timer, water inlet valve, and a clogged or kinked pressure hose (blowing through this is a good way to make sure it is clear).

If you are having repeated failures of this part, please check to make sure that the drain hose of the washing machine is at least 42″ from the floor and that it is draining into an open stand pipe or laundry tub.  If the drain hose is too low or the pipe/tub that the washing is draining into is not draining at a quick enough rate it can cause the water in the washer to be siphoned out which can damage the sensor switch and cause it to fail.

Here is how to replace the W10248240 Load Sensing Switch
First unplug the washing machine before working on it.

The sensor switch is labeled as the water temperature switch.  Remove this knob.

Next, you will need to access the top console.  This is done by using a putty knife to depress the two clips on the left & right hand sides.  Some models may use two Phillips screws on the back side of the washer to secure the console.  The console will then rotate back and out of the way.

Here is the console flipped out of the way

With the console flipped back and out of the way you will now have access to the sensor switch.  Remove the pressure hose and the two wire connectors going to the switch.  Then to remove the switch from the console you will need to lift up on the tab on the right hand side, and then rotate the switch 1/4 turn counter-clockwise to remove.

Re-install in the new part in the reverse order.

If you have a bad sensor switch and need to purchase a new one, please click one of the links below.  There are two different sensor switches and you can either check to see if your model number is listed below or you can get the part number from the back of the old part to make sure you are ordering the correct part number.

Temperature Sensor Switch – W10248240
Compatible model numbers: 110.29822801, 110.29832801, 1CWTW57ESVW1, MVWC5ESXW0, MVWC6ESWW1, MVWC7ESWW0, WTW57ESVH1, WTW57ESVW1, WTW58ESVW1

Pressure Sensor Switch – W10292584
Compatible model numbers: 110.29822800, 110.29832800, 1CWTW57ESVW0, MVWC6ESWW0, WTW57ESVH0, WTW57ESVW0, WTW58ESVW0

One of the most common questions I get asked by customers is about the GE WR30X10097 ice maker found in GE french door refrigerators.  This ice maker will commonly start to make a clicking noise when it fails, and it won’t produce ice properly or won’t make any ice at all.  When something fails on this ice maker, the whole ice maker must be replaced as an assembly; there are no replacement parts sold separately for these ice makers.

How To Replace The Ice Maker

What’s the difference between the Samsung DA97-05422A (Aka IMC701) & GE WR30X10097?

GE Service Bulletin (Model made before 3/1/2008)

I Replaced My Ice Maker And It Still Doesn’t Work

Where Can I Buy A Replacement Ice Maker?

Have More Questions?

How To Replace The WR30X10097 Ice Maker

First unplug your refrigerator, and remove the ice bin container. Remove the Phillips screw on the left side, this will allow you to remove the plastic panel that covers the wiring harness going to the ice maker. Unplug the wire connector going to the ice maker, and then push down on the locking tab on the top of the ice maker while pulling it towards you to remove it. The ice maker should now be free, and you can re-install the new ice maker in the reverse order.

What’s the difference between the Samsung DA97-05422A (Aka IMC701) & GE WR30X10097 Ice Makers?

If you have already removed your old ice maker, you may have noticed that on the bottom of the ice maker there is a sticker that says Samsung on the bottom of it. Even though the refrigerator is a GE refrigerator, the ice maker was built by Samsung for GE (along with some other components on the refrigerator). The sticker usually says “Model: IMC701”, lists the manufacture date, and lists the DA97-05422A part number in the bottom right corner. You can buy the replacement ice maker from GE, the part number for the replacement ice maker sold by GE is WR30X10097. You can save yourself a lot of money if you buy the same ice maker sold by Samsung. The DA97-05422A is the Samsung part number for the same ice maker.

GE Service Bulletin (Model made before 3/1/2008)

Some GE refrigerator models manufactured before March of 2008 require the ice maker and the main control board to be replaced to prevent further issues. The control board (part number WR55X10763) is replaced with a version that includes a newer software version. These ice makers can have symptoms of ice jamming between the ice maker and the liner, clicking & grinding noises, and low or no ice production. This service bulletin only affects certain model and serial number refrigerators, please make sure yours is part of this service bulletin before ordering the control board.

To access the main control board, you will need to unplug the refrigerator and pull out the refrigerator so you have access to the back side. Remove the screws to the control board cover, and you will have access to look at the tag on the control board to see what software version you have. The control board will need to be replaced if the software version is lower than 4.02. See the service sheet below for more information.

Models Affected: PFSS6 & PFSF6
Manufacture Date: July 2007 – Feb 2008
Serial Numbers: MM070000 – DR079999

I Replaced My Ice Maker And It Still Doesn’t Work

There are multiple things that can cause your ice maker not to work. First check to see if you have water flowing to the refrigerator. Check in your owners manual & installation instructions that came with the refrigerator, it should state how much water pressure should be at the refrigerator. Low water pressure can make small ice cubes which can cause ice maker failures. If you have a water filter system in your house, then make sure you bypass the water filter inside the refrigerator. Doubling up on filters only lowers the water pressure further. If you haven’t replaced your water filter in the last 6-12 months, then replacing the water filter can help improve water flow. Most GE refrigerator models use the MWF water filter. The other components that work with the ice maker to make ice are the water inlet valve, and the main control board on the refrigerator. The temperature in the ice maker compartment must be less than 10°F to work properly. To check the temperature you should put an accurate thermometer in the ice bin for a few hours to see if it is cooling down to the proper temperature.

On the side of the ice maker is a test switch. Firmly press this button for a few seconds and the ice maker should go through a harvest cycle by dumping out the ice in the ice maker and filling up with water again.

Where Can I Buy A Replacement Ice Maker?

You can buy a replacement ice maker from our website, please click the link below. Parts Dr always has the lowest prices for new O.E.M. replacement parts.

Samsung Ice Maker – DA97-05422A (IMC701)

Questions or Comments?

Have Any Questions?  Please post them in the comments section below and one of our experts will answer your question as soon as possible.