Category Archives: Dryer

A malfunctioning dryer can be frustrating, especially if it’s due to a blown thermal fuse. This small but essential component prevents overheating and potential fires by cutting off power to the dryer if it gets too hot. Understanding how to identify and replace a blown thermal fuse can save you time and money. Here’s how you can determine if your thermal fuse is blown:

Symptoms of a Blown Thermal Fuse

1. Dryer Won’t Start: The most common sign is the dryer not starting at all. If you press the start button and nothing happens, the thermal fuse might be the culprit.
2. No Heat: If the dryer drum runs but there’s no heat, it could indicate that the thermal fuse has blown. This is because the fuse cuts off the heating element to prevent overheating.

Steps to Diagnose a Blown Thermal Fuse

1. Locate the Thermal Fuse:
   • Consult your dryer’s manual to find the exact location of the thermal fuse. Typically, it’s located on the blower housing or near the heating element. You might need to remove the back panel of the dryer or open the front of the dryer access it.
   • We have multiple videos on our Youtube channel showing accessing the thermal fuses on different model dryers. You may find this example here or here helpful.
2. Multimeter Test:
   • Use a multimeter to test for continuity.
     Set the multimeter to the lowest resistance setting or the continuity setting.
   • Touch the probes to the fuse terminals.
     If the fuse is good, the multimeter will emit a beep, indicating continuity.
   • Alternatively, you can use the ohm setting to measure resistance. A reading of zero or near zero ohms indicates continuity.
   • If there’s no beep or the resistance is infinite, the fuse is blown and needs replacing.
   • For a visual guide, check out our YouTube video on how to test the thermal fuse with a multimeter.
3. Bypass Method (For Testing Purposes Only):
   • Safety First: Ensure the dryer is unplugged before attempting this test.
   • Temporarily bypass the fuse by connecting the two ends of the wires that connect to the fuse together. Alternately, use a jumper wire to connect the two wires together.
   • Plug in the dryer and see if it runs. If the dryer operates normally, the fuse is likely blown.
   • Remember, this is a temporary test and NOT a permanent solution. Bypassing the fuse removes a crucial safety feature and should only be done to confirm the diagnosis. After testing, immediately disconnect jumper wire or bypass until the thermal fuse is replaced with a new part.

Replacing the Thermal Fuse

1. Safety First: Always unplug the dryer before beginning any repairs. Working with electrical components can be dangerous, so ensure there is no power supply.
2. Remove the Old Fuse:
   • Carefully unscrew and remove the blown fuse. Note its orientation and how it’s connected to ensure you install the new one correctly.
3. Install the New Fuse:
   • Secure the new fuse in place, reattach any wires or connectors, and ensure it’s firmly in position.
   • Reassemble your dryer, ensuring all panels and covers are securely in place.

Why Did the Thermal Fuse Blow?

When a thermal fuse is blown, it indicates that the dryer has overheated. This could be due to a few underlying issues:

• Lint Build-Up: Check the dryer and exhaust venting for lint build-up or blockages. Clean the lint trap and ensure the ventilation system is clear.
• Blocked Ventilation: Obstructed vents can cause overheating. Ensure there are no blockages in the ventilation ducts.
• Heating Element Issues: Test the heating element for a short. A faulty heating element can cause the dryer to overheat and blow the thermal fuse. For detailed instructions, watch our video on how to test the heating element.

Additional Tips for Dryer Maintenance

• Clean the Lint Trap: Regularly cleaning the lint trap can prevent overheating and reduce the risk of a blown fuse.
• Check Ventilation: Ensure that the dryer’s ventilation system is clear and free of obstructions. Blocked vents can cause overheating and trigger the thermal fuse.
• Regular Inspections: Periodically inspect your dryer for signs of wear or damage. Early detection of issues can prevent major problems down the line.

Having a working thermal fuse is crucial for the safety and functionality of your dryer. If you need a replacement thermal fuse or other dryer parts, visit Parts Dr for high-quality Genuine appliance parts and fast shipping. With the right parts and a bit of know-how, you can keep your dryer running smoothly and safely.

Introduction:

Is your dryer displaying the F4 E3 error code, leaving you puzzled and disrupting your laundry routine? No need to panic – this common issue with dryers can often be addressed without the need for professional assistance. In this guide, we will walk you through the steps to diagnose and fix the F4 E3 error code, ensuring your dryer gets back to optimal performance.

Understanding the F4 E3 Error Code:

Before we jump into solutions, it’s crucial to understand the meaning behind the F4 E3 error code. In most dryers made by Whirlpool, including Maytag, Amana, Kenmore and more, this code typically points to an airflow restriction issue. This restriction can lead to overheating and potential damage to your dryer.

Diagnosing the Problem:

To troubleshoot the F4 E3 error code, follow these systematic steps:

1. Check Home Exhaust Vent: Ensure your home’s ventilation system is free from obstructions. Lint buildup, debris, or even bird nests in the vent can cause airflow restrictions.
2. Inspect Vent Hose: Examine the vent hose that connects the dryer’s exhaust vent to the home for any kinks or blockages. A smooth, unrestricted path is crucial for proper airflow.
3. Clean Lint Filter: Regularly clean the lint filter, as a clogged filter can impede airflow and trigger the error code.

Fixing the F4 E3 Error Code:

Once you’ve identified the airflow restriction as the likely issue, follow these steps to resolve the F4 E3 error code:

1. Safety First: Unplug the dryer from the power source to ensure safety during the repair process.
2. Vent Cleaning: Thoroughly clean the entire ventilation system, from the lint filter to the exterior vent. Use a vent cleaning kit or a vacuum with an extended attachment. If you have a long or hard to clean vent, look into hiring a professional to clean it.
3. Inspect Vent Hose: Check the vent hose that goes between the dryer and the house exhaust vent for any damage or blockages. Replace if necessary.
4. Lint Filter Replacement: If the lint filter is damaged or excessively clogged, consider replacing it with a new one.
5. Reassemble and Test: Once the cleaning and replacements are complete, reassemble the dryer, plug it in, and run a test cycle to ensure the F4 E3 error code is resolved.
6. Dryer not Working: If your dryer no longer works or starts, you may need to replace the thermal fuse, as it may have blown when the dryer was too hot trying to move air through the constricted airways. You can learn how to test your dryer’s thermal fuse here. To find and purchase the correct thermal fuse for your model, use the search box at the top of this page and enter your dryer’s model number to find the correct thermal fuse.

Conclusion:

Don’t let the F4 E3 dryer error code disrupt your laundry routine. By diagnosing the issue and following these steps to address airflow restrictions, you can save time and money on service calls.

We hope this guide has helped you tackle the F4 E3 error code in your dryer. If you have any questions or need further clarification, feel free to ask in the comments section. Don’t forget to search our site for all of your appliance parts that may be needed! Happy drying!

If you’re wondering how old your GE appliance is, you can determine its age by using the serial number. Each GE appliance has a unique serial number that contains information about the appliance, including the month and year of manufacture.

In this post, we’ll walk you through how to decode your GE appliance’s serial number to determine its age. We’ll use the examples from Eric’s video to illustrate the process.

Step 1: Locate your appliance’s model tag

Before you can decode your appliance’s serial number, you’ll need to locate its model tag. The model tag is a small metal or plastic plate that is typically located on the appliance in a safe but easy to find location. If you’re having trouble locating the tag, you can use our model number locator for common tag locations.

Step 2: Determine the month of manufacture

The first character of the serial number indicates the month in which the appliance was manufactured. Use GE’s Appliance Manufacture Date Code Chart to determine the corresponding month. For example, if the first character of your appliance’s serial number is ‘D’, it was manufactured in February.

Step 3: Determine the year of manufacture

The second character of the serial number indicates the years during which the appliance may have been manufactured. Use GE’s Appliance Manufacture Date Code Chart to determine the possible years. For example, if the second character of your appliance’s serial number is ‘R’, it could have been manufactured in 2020, 2008, 1996, 1984, 1972, or 1958.

Step 4: Use the owner’s manual to narrow down the year

To narrow down which year your appliance was manufactured, you’ll need to reference the owner’s manual. Look for a date on the bottom of the first or last page. If you don’t have a physical copy of the manual, you can find a digital version on GE’s website using your appliance’s model number.

Match up the year from the owner’s manual to the closest year in the chart. For example, if the date listed in your owner’s manual is 11-22 and the second character of your appliance’s serial number is ‘R’, the closest year in the chart is 2020. This indicates that your appliance was manufactured in February of 2020.

Examples

Let’s run through a few examples using the information from Eric’s video.

Example 1: GE Microwave

Serial Number: D S

Month: February

Possible Years: 2021, 2009, 1997, 1985, 1973, or 1959

Date Listed in Owner’s Manual: 11-08

Closest Year in Chart: 2009

This indicates that this microwave was manufactured in February of 2009.

Example 2: GE Stove

Serial Number: H A

Month: May

Possible Years: 2013, 2001, 1989, 1977, 1944

Date Listed in Owner’s Manual: 01-09

Closest Year in Chart: 2013

This indicates that this stove was manufactured in May of 2013.

Example 3: Older GE Stove

Serial Number: A H

Month: January

Possible Years: 2017, 2005, 1993, 1981, 1951

Date Listed in Owner’s Manual: 03-93

This indicates that this stove was manufactured in January of 1993.

Conclusion

Decoding your GE appliance’s serial number is a simple process that can help you determine its age. By using GE’s Appliance Manufacture Date Code Chart and the information from your appliance’s model tag and owner’s manual, you can easily determine when your appliance was made.

GE part number WE04X23220 & WE04X25559 main control board MUST be programmed after installation for the part to work with the dryer. The main control board is two electronic boards connected together by a wire spline and mounted in a plastic housing. The front board is the User Interface (UI) board and the rear board is the Machine Control board.  When the main control board is replaced, the new board MUST be programmed with a model ID code. The model ID consists of the “User Interface Mode Type” and the “Heater Type”.  The User Interface Mode Type is a number currently between 0 and 3. The Heater Type will be either an “E” for electric or a “g” for gas. Follow the instructions below to program the board.  When the main control board has been replaced, it may sometimes power up with all of the LED’s blinking. If this is the case, follow only steps 5 through 10 below. Otherwise, follow all of the steps from the beginning.

Main Control Board Model ID Programming

1. Begin with the dryer in Idle Mode (all LED’s on display off).

2. Press the following key sequence to enter Service Mode: My Cycle –> Delay Dry –> My Cycle –> Delay Dry.

NOTE: The sequence must be done in order. If there are any other button presses or buttons are pressed out of order, the sequence must be started from the beginning.

3. Upon entering Service Mode, the control will be in t1.

4. Press the Start/Pause button when “t1” is displayed.

5. Simultaneously press and hold both the Temp & Level buttons for three seconds to prepare the control for selecting the model.

6. Press the Level button to increase or press the Temp button to decrease the Model Code number selection until the correct number is displayed, per the table on the right.

User Interface Mode Type Table
(See part instructions if model is not listed in table.)

Model Number	User Interface Mode Type
GFMR295EF/GF	0
GFDS260EF/GF	1
GFDS265EF/GF	1
GFDR270EH/GH	1
GFDR275EH/GH	1
GHDS360EF/GF	2
GHDS365EF/GF	2
GFDR480EF/GF	3
GFDR485EF/GF	3

7. Press the Start/Pause button to temporarily save the UI Model Code.

8. Next, the Heater Type selection is displayed as “g” or Gas or “E” for Electric. Press the Temp or Level to alternate the 7-segment display between the two Heater Type selections.

9. Press and hold the Start/Pause button for three seconds to set the Heater Type. The board will then return to an idle state and will exit Service Mode. It could take up to 10 seconds for the dryer to respond after exiting Service Mode.

10. The dryer is now ready for use.

If you need to purchase a new control board you can purchase this part from our website using the link below.  Please make sure to check on our website to make sure the part is compatible with the model number from the dryer before ordering.

Mfg Part # WE04X23220 (Part # PD00038167) – Control Board Assembly

Compatible Models:
GFDR480EF0WW
GFDR480EF1WW
GFDR480GF0WW
GFDR480GF1WW
GFDR485EF0MC
GFDR485EF0RR
GFDR485EF1MC
GFDR485EF1RR
GFDR485GF0MC
GFDR485GF0RR
GFDR485GF1MC
GFDR485GF1RR
GFDS250EF0WW
GFDS250GF0WW
GFDS260EF0WW
GFDS260EF1WW
GFDS260EF2WW
GFDS260GF0WW
GFDS260GF1WW
GFDS260GF2WW
GFDS265EF0MC
GFDS265EF0RR
GFDS265EF1MC
GFDS265EF1RR
GFDS265GF0MC
GFDS265GF0RR
GFDS265GF1MC
GFDS265GF1RR
GHDS360EF0WW
GHDS360EF1WW
GHDS360GF0WW
GHDS360GF1WW
GHDS365EF0MC
GHDS365EF0RR
GHDS365EF1MC
GHDS365EF1RR
GHDS365GF0MC
GHDS365GF0RR
GHDS365GF1MC
GHDS365GF1RR
GFD48ESPK0DG
GFD48ESPK0RR
GFD48ESSK0WW
GFD48GSPK0DG
GFD48GSPK0RR
GFD48GSSK0WW
GFD49ERPK0DG
GFD49ERPK0RR
GFD49ERSK0WW
GFD49GRPK0DG
GFD49GRPK0RR
GFD49GRSK0WW
GFDR270EH0WW
GFDR270EH1WW
GFDR270GH0WW
GFDR270GH1WW
GFDR275EH0MC
GFDR275EH1MC
GFDR275GH0MC
GFDR275GH1MC

Whirlpool thermistor part number WP8577274 is used on many Whirlpool model dryers including some Maytag , Amana, Kenmore, Crosley and Inglis model dryers. When this thermistor fails it can cause your dryer to stop running or not heat correctly and display a F-22, F-23, E1, or E2 error code. If you are receiving either any these error codes you should test the thermistor.

Click the link below to purchase this part from our online store:

Whirlpool OEM part number: WP8577274 (PD00002401)

Tools required:
Multimeter or Ohm meter

This thermistor replaces these parts numbers:
3390292, 3406294, 3976615, 772546, 8577274, 1181075, AP6013514, PS11746740, EAP11746740

Resistance Chart:

Video Transcript:

Hi this is Ryan with Parts Dr, and today I am going to show you how to test the thermistor on your dryer to see if it is good or bad.  This thermistor is a temperature sensor that measures the exhaust air temperature inside the dryer for the control board so it can maintain the desired temperature inside the dryer.

When the thermistor fails it can cause the dryer to display a F-22, F-23, E1, or E2 error code.   The dryer can display one of these error codes if the thermistor is shorted or open.

To test your thermistor you will first need to unplug the dryer, disconnect the wires to the thermistor, and remove the thermistor from the dryer.  Using a multi meter you will need to do an ohm test to check the resistance of the thermistor.  It is important to note that you can NOT do a continuity test on a thermistor.  Thermistors have a high ohm value that won’t register on a continuity test on most multimeters.  If you have an auto ranging multimeter, then turn the meter to the ohm setting.  If you have a manual ranging multi meter you will need to set the meter to the 20K or 40K setting.

Place one of each of the meters probes on each of the thermistors wire terminals.  A good thermistor should have an ohm reading around 11K Ohms at room temperature.  If your ohm reading is far higher or lower than this then you should replace the thermistor.  The resistance value of the thermistor varies depending on the temperature of the dryer, here is a chart that shows the different resistance values at different temperatures.

If you find that you have a bad thermistor and you need to purchase a new one, you can purchase one from our online store by clicking the link in the description below.  Please subscribe to our youtube channel for more appliance repair videos, and if you found this video helpful please click the thumbs up button below.  You can also stay up to date by liking us on our Facebook page, and following us on Twitter.

Kenmore is a popular appliance brand sold by Sears.  Sears does not manufacture any of the appliances themselves, instead they source that out and have other manufacturers make their appliances for them.  You can easily decode the model number of the appliance to tell you who made your Kenmore appliance.

The first three digits in a Kenmore model can will tell you who manufactured the appliance for Sears.  For example model number 110.45862400, the first three digits are 110 so that would tell you that Whirlpool manufactured the appliance.  Some of the more common appliance manufacturers Sears uses is Whirlpool, Frigidaire, LG, and GE. If you are looking for parts for your Kenmore appliance your can search for the model number in the search box at the top of the page.

Prefix	Manufacturer	Prefix	Manufacturer
103	Roper	629	Jenn Air
106	Whirlpool	647	Roper
110	Whirlpool	651	Speed Queen
119	Frigidaire	664	Whirlpool
143	SFS Corp. (Sanyo/Fisher)	665	Whirlpool
144	Trane	666	KitchenAid
155	Preway	683	Philco
174	Caloric	719	Tappan (Frigidaire)
175	In-Sink-Erator	721	Goldstar (LG Electronics)
198	Whirlpool	747	Litton
233	Broan	757	Marvel, Imperial
253	Gibson (Frigidaire)	789	Defience
274	RCA	790	WCI (Frigidaire)
278	Roper	791	Tappan (Frigidaire)
292	Lennox	795	LG ( Refrigerators )
335	Amana	796	LG (Laundry)
336	Electrolux	835	Roper
342	York	840	Friedrich
362	GE	850	Whirlpool (Chambers)
363	GE	867	Keeprite
401	Samsung	879	Rheem/Ruud
416	Carrier	911	Roper
417	Kelvinator (Frigidaire)	917	Roper (Whirlpool)
464	GE	925	Maycor (Maytag)
473	Hoover	934	Hitachi
484	Fedders, Whirlpool	960	Caloric
562	Toshiba	970	Frigidaire
564	Sanyo	C106.	Inglis
565	Sanyo	C110.	Inglis
566	Sanyo	C362.	Camco
568	Panisonic	C363.	Camco
575	Sharp	C646.	Admiral (Inglis)
580	Goldstar (LG Electronics)	C675.	Woods
586	Panisonic	C880.	Admiral (Inglis)
587	DM (Frigidaire)	C933.	Kelvinator (Before 1970)
596	Amana	C938.	Keeprite
622	Kelvinator (Frigidaire)	C970.	Kelvinator (1970+)
628	Kelvinator (Frigidaire)	C978.	Camco

Newer Frigidaire and Kenmore dryers use a thermistor sensor to control the temperature inside the dryer. A thermistor is a type of resistor that varies it’s resistance with the change in temperature. When the thermistor fails, it can cause the dryer to not heat at all, get too hot, or sometimes it will throw an E24, E25, or F02 error code (open or shorted thermistor) on some models.

Here is how to check/test the Frigidaire 134587700 thermistor:

• Before working on your clothes dryer, make sure it is unplugged.
• First remove the thermistor sensor from the dryer. The thermistor is located on the blower housing next to the blower wheel.
• With the thermistor removed from the dryer, you will need to use an ohm meter or multi-meter to measure the resistance of the thermistor.
• Place one of each of the probes from the meter on each terminal of thermistor. With the thermistor at room temperature, the thermistor should read approximately 50-53k ohms. If the thermistor is off by more than 10% then the sensor will need to be replaced.

Here is a reading from a bad sensor (0.05k ohms):

If you have a bad thermistor sensor and need to purchase a new one, please click the link below:

Dryer Thermistor Control – 134587700

One of the most common repairs done to dryers is replacing the heating element.  This is an easy task that most any DIYer can tackle themselves.  The most common heating element found on Whirlpool dryers is part number 279838, this element is sometimes called the “shorty” because of its small size compared to its larger predecessor used on older Whirlpool dryers part number 4391960.

How To Replace The 279838 Heating Element

How To Test The 279838 Heating Element

My Dryer Still Doesn’t Heat After Replacing The Element

Where Can I Buy A Genuine Whirlpool 279838 Heating Element?

How to replace the 279838 heating element:

First before working on the dryer, you will need to unplug and remove the exhaust vent from the dryer.

Next, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer. Remove the nine 1/4″ screws and then tilt the panel back and lift up to remove.

Now remove the wires going to the heating element and high limit thermostat.  Some dryers may have up to five wires, so make sure to note the place and position of each wire.  The high limit thermostat is the part attached to the left side of the heating element.  Newer dryers will use a push on style high limit thermostat part number 3977767, and older dryers use a thermostat that is attached with one or two 1/4″ screws part number 3390291.

Remove the two 1/4″ mountings screws on the left and right sides.

With the two mounting screws removed, pull back on the bottom of the element, and then slide it down to remove it from the dryer.

Remove the high limit thermostat from the old heating element and transfer it over to the new heating element.  You will have to pry up on it if you have a newer style thermostat, or you will have to remove the mounting screw(s) if you have an older style thermostat.

Re-install everything in the reverse order. Make sure to check your dryer vent and blower housing (where the lint filter slides into) for any vent restrictions. This is the number one thing that causes heating elements to burn out prematurely.

My Dryer Still Doesn’t Heat

Multiple things on a dryer can cause dryers not to heat. The heating element is just one of many things that can cause your dryer not to heat. The second most common thing that causes these dryers not to heat is a bad thermal fuse. There are two thermal fuses, one is right next to the blower fan and one is on the heater box. The common blower thermal fuse is part number 3392519 and when that goes bad you should also replace the operating thermostat (Usually part number 3387134 or 694674). Whirlpool sells the high limit thermal fuse and thermostat on the heater box as a kit. Newer dryers use part number 279816 and older dryers use part number 279769. If you have a bad thermal fuse, then your dryer got too hot. Check your dryer and venting for any restrictions. Also make sure your heating element is not shorted to ground (this causes the heating element to stay on all the time).

Electric dryers also require 220-240 volts to work properly, if you only have 120v going to the dryer it is possible for it to run but not heat. The timer, motor, and bad wiring can also cause heating problems on dryers. All parts are specific to your model dryer, so please contact us before ordering parts.

How To Test The 279838 Heating Element

To test your heating element you will need to first remove the heating element from the dryer (follow the above instructions to remove the element). With the element removed from the dryer, do a visual inspection of the element. Often times you will be able to see a break in the heating coil. Sometimes it even helps to grab each section of the coil and wiggle it to make sure there isn’t a break in it. If you can’t see a break in the coil, then you will need an Ohm meter or Multi-Meter to test the heating element. Place one probe on each terminal of the heating element, you should get a reading of approximately 9-10 ohms on a good element. If you get no resistance, then the element is bad and will need to be replaced.

Where Can I Buy a Genuine Whirlpool 279838 Heating Element?

Parts Dr sells new genuine OEM Whirlpool replacement heating elements. You will often find knockoff heating elements sold for less money. These elements are lower quality, and don’t hold up as well in the long run. Visit the link below to visit our store to purchase a genuine Whirlpool 279838 heating element.

Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element  – 279838

Samsung dryer heating element DC97-14486A is used on many Samsung clothes dryers and even some Maytag (Neptune) and Amana dryer models.  When the heating element goes bad, it will usually have a break in the heating coil which will cause the element not to heat.  These instructions work for most Samsung dryers, some may have some small differences but the overall process if very similar.  Here is how to replace and test the DC97-14486A & DC47-00019A heating element:

First, unplug or shut off the power to the dryer before working on it.

Then remove the two screws securing the top panel to the back of the dryer.  Slide the top panel towards the back of the dryer to remove.  Now you will need to remove the front control panel, some model will have screws securing this. Remove them and then pull up to remove, you should have enough extra wire to set the control panel on top of the dryer to get it out of the way (if not, then disconnect the wires and set it off to the side).

Behind where the control panel was there will be four screws that secure the front panel of the dryer to the frame.  Remove these four screws.

Open the door of the dryer, there will be two screws that need to be removed at the bottom of the door frame area.  With those two screws removed you should be able to tilt the front panel forward, remove the connector to the door switch, and remove the front panel.

The heating element is located on the bottom right side of the dryer.  To remove the element you will need to remove the wires to the heating element, thermal fuse, and thermostat.  Then remove the mounting screw in the front and the whole heating element assembly should pull out the front of the dryer.

To test the heating element, you will need an Ohm meter or multi-meter.  A good heating element should read approximately 9-10 ohms.  A burned out element will have an infinite resistance (it won’t register anything).  See the video below for instructions on how to test the heating element.

To re-install the heating element you will need to put everything back in the reverse order.  If you lost track of how the wires connect to the heating element, please see the picture below.

If you need to purchase a new Samsung dryer heating element, click one of the two links below.

The best way to purchase the heating element is as an assembly. The heating element assembly includes the heating element, two thermostats, and housing.

Heating Element Assembly –  Part # PD00002003 (mfg # DC97-14486A)

We also sell the heating element by itself.  You will need to re-use the thermostats and element housing.

Heating Element – Part # PD00001991 (mfg # DC47-00019A)