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Appliance Repair Blog

How To Install Samsung Dryer Heating Element DC97-14486A

Samsung dryer heating element DC97-14486A is used on many Samsung clothes dryers and even some Maytag (Neptune) and Amana dryer models.  When the heating element goes bad, it will usually have a break in the heating coil which will cause the element not to heat.  These instructions work for most Samsung dryers, some may have some small differences but the overall process if very similar.  Here is how to replace and test the DC97-14486A & DC47-00019A heating element:

First, unplug or shut off the power to the dryer before working on it.

How_to_remove_samsung_dryer_heating_element_DC47-00019A

Then remove the two screws securing the top panel to the back of the dryer.  Slide the top panel towards the back of the dryer to remove.  Now you will need to remove the front control panel, some model will have screws securing this. Remove them and then pull up to remove, you should have enough extra wire to set the control panel on top of the dryer to get it out of the way (if not, then disconnect the wires and set it off to the side).

Behind where the control panel was there will be four screws that secure the front panel of the dryer to the frame.  Remove these four screws.

How_to_remove_samsung_dryer_heating_element_DC47-00019A_2

Open the door of the dryer, there will be two screws that need to be removed at the bottom of the door frame area.  With those two screws removed you should be able to tilt the front panel forward, remove the connector to the door switch, and remove the front panel.

How_to_remove_samsung_dryer_heating_element_DC47-00019A_3

The heating element is located on the bottom right side of the dryer.  To remove the element you will need to remove the wires to the heating element, thermal fuse, and thermostat.  Then remove the mounting screw in the front and the whole heating element assembly should pull out the front of the dryer.

How_to_remove_samsung_dryer_heating_element_DC47-00019A_4

To test the heating element, you will need an Ohm meter or multi-meter.  A good heating element should read approximately 9-10 ohms.  A burned out element will have an infinite resistance (it won’t register anything).  See the video below for instructions on how to test the heating element.

To re-install the heating element you will need to put everything back in the reverse order.  If you lost track of how the wires connect to the heating element, please see the picture below.

DC97-14486A Wiring WM

If you need to purchase a new Samsung dryer heating element, click one of the two links below.

The best way to purchase the heating element is as an assembly. The heating element assembly includes the heating element, two thermostats, and housing.

Heating Element Assembly –  Part # PD00002003 (mfg # DC97-14486A)

We also sell the heating element by itself.  You will need to re-use the thermostats and element housing.

Heating Element – Part # PD00001991 (mfg # DC47-00019A)

25 Thoughts on "How To Install Samsung Dryer Heating Element DC97-14486A"

  1. jason Posted on March 21, 2015

    I JUST INSTALLED THE ASSY – THE DRYER GETS HOT, VERY HOT AND SMELLS HOT. Is THIS JUST THE NEW ELEMENT WEARING IN OR IS THERE SOMETHING I SHOULD CHECK?

    • Ryan Posted on March 23, 2015

      Sometimes the new elements will have a smell to them, but it should go away in 5-15 minutes of running the dryer.

  2. Frank Chumley Posted on May 6, 2015

    Excellent instructions! Only one suggestion: provide a close up of the support piece that must be rocked backwards in order to remove the heating element. The last time we had to replace the element, it cost us $288.00! This time, the cost was $80.00 and and two hours!

  3. Trevor Posted on May 31, 2015

    I have replaced the heating element in my front load Samsung checked breaker and all the voltages. No gloged vent, no codes and it sti will not heat. Any suggestions?

    • Ryan Posted on June 2, 2015

      Check the fuses and thermostats for continuity. Two are on the side of the element, and one is on the blower housing. If those check out okay, then the main control board is probably bad.

  4. Doug Posted on December 19, 2015

    Broken heating coil. Followed the instructions (with the comment modification of removing the mounting bracket), and it worked like a charm. Part arrived in 2 days. Thank you Parts Dr for the video(s), the solid instructions, and the reasonably priced part. Now if I could only have done this without scraping the skin off of my hands!

  5. Dave Posted on January 18, 2016

    Great instructions. I installed a new heating element without difficulties. One thing though. Upon recite of the new heating element, I did a continuity check between the two leads and again between the leads and the metal. I got a tone on both tests. I shouldn’t have, on the second test. I found that one of the insulators was broken and the coil was touching the metal. I replaced it with one off of the old element. Force of habit to check parts before installing. Dryer works again, wife happy.

  6. Christine Callan Posted on August 10, 2016

    Does it matter how the wires are attached? Like the black wire, if it leads from the top of one fuse to the bottom of the other? Or red on top and blue on bottom? I have replaced everything, but there is a funny burning smell…maybe because it’s new?

    • Ryan Posted on October 6, 2016

      It doesn’t matter which of the two wire terminals on the fuse the wires get connected to. So if there was a red wire on the top terminal and a blue wire on the bottom terminal of the fuse you could switch those around and it wouldn’t make a difference. It is normal for the new element to have a smell to it for the first 15 minutes of use. If the smell continues after that then something is wrong.

  7. Chris Posted on June 7, 2018

    If the larger fuse rattles, then it’s bad?

  8. Dustin Posted on November 19, 2018

    I replaced the heating element and 3 sensors that are a part of the heating element. The dryer heats but is inconsistent when drying. When I turned on the dryer the first time there was a pop but it continued to heat so I’m not sure what I did or didn’t do?

  9. john Posted on April 13, 2019

    I need the wires or the connectors that attach to the heating element (Blue and Red)

    • Ryan Posted on April 14, 2019

      Samsung only sells the wires and connectors and part of the wiring harness for the dryer. Whirlpool sells a wire than you can splice that might be what you are needing if you have a burnt wire/connector. See the link below for that part.

      https://partsdr.com/part/279457-heating-element-wire-kit

  10. Greg Posted on June 27, 2019

    Installed new element and replaced two sensors and it dried great but the sensor toward the back went bed so it stopped drying! I put the old sensor back in and it started drying again but once again it quit drying again after about 20 minutes! Any suggestions?

    • Ryan Posted on June 28, 2019

      The high limit thermal fuse and thermostat on the side of the element will stop the dryer from overheating if it gets too hot. This can occur if the exhaust venting is blocked or clogged. It can also occur if the main control board is bad and constantly sending power to the heating element. Try running the dryer on an air dry (no heat) cycle and if the dryer still heats up then it is likely the main board is bad.

  11. John Posted on August 7, 2019

    I replaced the heating element housing and it worked well for two days, and now it doesn’t heat anymore. Any suggestions?

    • Ryan Posted on August 7, 2019

      It’s hard to say without checking things on the dryer. We see alot of aftermarket/knockoff heating elements sold on Amazon and Ebay that fail prematurely.

      • John Posted on August 10, 2019

        Thanks, they resent the replacement part. Hopefully this one lasts more than a few days. BTW, I have seen the wiring attached in three different ways. As long as the short blue connects from the first to the middle sensor, and the short black connects from the middle to the last sensor, and red is at the first and the long blue is at the last, then it shouldn’t matter if they are on the top or bottom of the sensors, correct?

  12. Jacob Barr Posted on March 6, 2020

    I replaced the heat element and fuses. The element has three wires and every time i turn it on it trips the breaker

  13. Trina berry Posted on April 14, 2020

    I just replace my heating element when I turn it on I smell a burning the a min with the drying running it start to smoke

  14. Sandro Scielzo Posted on May 2, 2020

    Just replaced the heating element with a brand new one. When I run the dryer, the outside where the heating element is (right side, bottom) gets very hot to the touch – I’m pretty sure that’s not normal. What could cause that?

  15. Nathan Posted on May 5, 2020

    I replaced the heating element and the two sensor’s. I had taken a picture of the wiring and put it back the same way. It has worked for a couple months but suddenly quit drying. I moved the dryer and took it apart to check the connections and they looked fine. I started it and it heated up. I removed the heating element housing for a closer look and noticed that the end of the small blue wire connecting to the center sensor was burned and so was the end of the black wire on the third sensor. What would cause this?

    • ric Posted on July 16, 2020

      did you get an answer for this?? similar item for me that the wire burned up some

  16. Erica Hansen-Ziobro Posted on May 6, 2020

    Our Samsung doesn’t have coils in its heating element.

    Model: DV42H5400GF

    • Ryan Posted on May 6, 2020

      Gas dryers aren’t heated with a heating element coil, they are heated with a flame from the gas.

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