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Appliance Repair Blog

How To Test Maytag Thermistor WP35001191

Some Maytag Neptune dryers use a thermistor temperature sensor to measure the temperature of the air in the dryer.  When this sensor fails you can get a “tS”/”t5” error code which indicates a thermistor short.  Testing this sensor is very easy, all you need is a digital mulit-meter that can read ohms.

This is how to test thermistor part number WP35001191:

  • With the thermistor removed from the dryer set your meter to measure ohms (or to the 20K/40k ohms setting)
  • Place one probe on each terminal of the thermistor
  • The thermistor at room temperature should read approximately 10k ohms.  If it is far off from that, the sensor will need to be replaced. (sensor in the above picture is a bad sensor)
  • Once the bad sensor has been replaced, you will need to reset the code or else the TS code will continue to display.

Here is how to get into service mode to clear the TS code:

  • First, Enter Service Mode.  Dryer must be on before Service Mode can be entered. Press Chime and Temperature Keys for 3 seconds, or until 3 beeps are heard. The machine will now be in Service Mode.
  • Next, access diagnostic codes by entering the Service Mode and pressing Wrinkle Prevent. A “d” will be displayed. Rotate the Cycle Selector Knob in either direction to step through the list of codes one code at a time.
  • Then, to clear the diagnostic code list press the Sensor Dry Level and Time keypads together for 3 seconds while viewing the list. The cycle count for each diagnostic code will be reset to 0, but not the machine cycle count.
  • Finally exit service mode by pressing the OFF key or repeat the Chime and Temperature sequence.

If you need to purchase a thermistor sensor for your dryer click the link below:

Thermistor – WP35001191

24 Thoughts on "How To Test Maytag Thermistor WP35001191"

  1. Sky Posted on December 9, 2012

    I have been googling & reading for hours, and this is by far the easiest & most accurate answer to my question. I especially appreciate the fact that you tell exactly what # to set my multimeter on (40k). I had been testing sensors all day with it set to 20m 🙂

    • Ryan Posted on December 9, 2012

      Great! We are glad this was helpful to you!

  2. Steve Posted on July 19, 2013

    Great page – I was thinking the thermistor on my Maytag Neptune MDE5500AYW dryer was ready to die (laundry not always coming out fully dry) and I had to change my rear drum rollers anyway so I took the thermistor out and all I could get my multimeter to measure on auto mode was 0.9 to 1.0 ohms in a 73 degree room. In kOhm mode, it said “.0” or .002 if I adjusted the range manually. I’m no electrician but would you guess this is defective?

    • Ryan Posted on July 19, 2013

      This thermistor in the article is not for your model dryer. Your model dryer lists a thermistor and cycling thermostat. I am not sure if yours has both parts, or just one of them. Are there any part numbers on the part?

      • Steve Posted on July 19, 2013

        Oops – I didn’t realize, just thought it looked the same. Turns out the Maytag 3074730 is a thermal fuse. I’m not feeling too bright right now.

        I will do some more looking. Thank you!

  3. Erin Posted on October 6, 2013

    Maytag Neptune 6700 electric dryer: (After getting a tS errror repeatedly) Thermistor just ohmed out at 10.88…is this too far off that it needs replacement? It was pretty dirty/dusty when I took it out to test…going to clean it and see if that helps…

    • Ryan Posted on October 6, 2013

      That should be close enough. You could try replacing it since part isn’t too expensive.

      • Erin Posted on October 6, 2013

        OK, cleaned up thermistor, and now the dryer runs, but isn’t heating. What should I check next? (I’m just at the edge of my comfort zone, but I take directions very well.)

        • Ryan Posted on October 7, 2013

          There are many things that can cause a dryer not to heat. You will need to post your questions on our repair forum to further help you with this problem. http://forum.partsdr.com

          • Erin Posted on October 7, 2013

            Wow, who answered this e mail?

  4. Bob Posted on May 15, 2015

    i have a Neptune dryer model MDE6800AYW that had a bad control board and dryer would not start. Only would blink. Replaced and everything works except that the sensor dry control will on read “62 minutes” and “very dry”. Highest setting. Also in “time dry” the heat setting is “normal” and will not let me change setting. I have checked blogs and not found these symptoms mentioned. I think that it may be the thermistor or sensor bar? I don’t think it is thermostat as it does work heat properly in other modes. Help?

    • Ryan Posted on May 18, 2015

      Did the old control board have any of these same issues?

  5. Bob Posted on May 18, 2015

    No, washer had all functions before the original control board failed.

  6. Jim Freeman Posted on May 19, 2015

    I have a maytag bravos intellidry MCT model#MEDX550XW0 electric dryer that is not heating no codes have shown have checked element checks good thermal fuse was bad replaced still no heat checked thermistor ohms were 11.15 could that be the problem?

    • Ryan Posted on May 22, 2015

      Thermistor part number 8577274 should ohm out at 11.9K Ohms at 70°F and 9.2K Ohms at 80°F. It sounds like thermistor is good from your ohm reading you received. I would start by checking to see if the dryer has approx 240v being supplied to it. If the element, fuses, thermostat, and power supply are all good then you might have a bad main control board.

  7. Ric A Posted on September 1, 2016

    My thermastor reads 8.8 on my multimeter set to 20k. is this acceptable or should I replace it?
    thanks
    Ric

    • Ryan Posted on October 6, 2016

      Hi Ric,

      I think that is off far enough that I would replace the sensor.

  8. Mark Posted on July 8, 2019

    I have a Kenmore elite elect dryer and it was giving a e64 code so ordered the heating element. It had both sensors with it so put on the new ones. I noticed it got extremely hot within about 30 seconds and shut down. Repeated process same occurrence and I had a f1 code so took and replaced both new sensors with old ones and still extremely hot and shut down threw a f1code. Checked everything for plugged something, things are extremely clean and turns nicely ? Any new ideas.

    • Ryan Posted on July 8, 2019

      Maybe a bad control board sending power to the element all of the time?

  9. J.Edmer Fudd Posted on July 25, 2019

    I have a Maytag Neptune MDE9700AYW Dryer that just stopped. For the last few months the display was continually blinking during the drying cycle. I have checked my breakers, voltage, continuity of my wiring input, checked the thermistor 8.8 on 20K, checked thermostat, but still no power to the board, anyone have any suggestions?

  10. Joshua Posted on September 5, 2019

    My Maytag electric dryer model MDE9700AYW won’t heat up to dry the cloth. I touched the glass door and side panel to be cold even if I set it to timed cycle. I managed to find a blown thermal fuse on the heating assembly. The heating element istelf is 10 Ohms, good. There is no heating element shorting to the ground, either. So I left the heating element alone. I then replaced the thermal fuse with a new one bought from eBay. On the frist trial run, the new thermal fuse blown again in 7 minutes into the cycle. Besides the blown thermal fuse, I checked the thermistor on the vent tube to be 8.5 KOhms at room temp. It was 10 KOhms last time. Again, I replaced the thermal fuse and the thermistor this time. I then did my 2nd trial run, the thermal fuse blown again. The dryer has been throughly cleaned. It was not connected to the vent pipe to the outside. It just vent directly to the laundry room. So there is no air flow blockage. I am at my wit’s end, anyone has any suggestions?

    • Ryan Posted on September 6, 2019

      It could be a bad main control board that is causing the heating element to stay on all of the time.

      • Joshua Posted on September 8, 2019

        Fair enough. I took out the main control board (Samsung DC41-00027A) and found the resin melted around power transistor. But I have no way to check if it is at fault or what type of transistor it is, be it Bipolar (NPN or PNP) or MOSFET (P-ch or N-ch). Before I buy another board, I put in a new thermal fuse and a new thermistor from defferent vendors. I ran the dryer again without hooking up the vent pipe this morning. It has been working for at least two loads without any issue so far. It smells like the quality of hte fuse is hte issue here. Should I buy a new control board anyway? Any comments?

        • Joshua Posted on September 11, 2019

          I ran two more loads and found the cooling cycles were never run with this semi-borken control board. It looked like it just went by the time only. I then tried timed cycle. The result was the same. This confirms that I need to purchase another control board for the dryer to have intelligence.

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