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0GE Refrigerator Clicking Noise From Back
Newer style GE refrigerators all use a motherboard on the back side of the refrigerator to control most of the functions on the refrigerator. If you start to hear a constant “clicking” sound every few seconds coming from the back side of the refrigerator, the motherboard might have failed. Pull the refrigerator out while it is still making the noise and listen to where the sound is coming from. You should see a panel on the back of the refrigerator, behind this panel is the control board (make sure not to touch the control board while the refrigerator is plugged in, you may get shocked or electrocuted).
Behind this panel is the control board.
If the noise seems to be coming from the control board, then the control board has failed and it will need to be replaced. GE does not sell replacement parts for the control board, so the whole control board must be replaced if there is a problem with the control board. When the control board fails it can cause the refrigerator not to run or cool. It also controls the water dispenser, fan motors, and more. Most of the GE & Hotpoint refrigerators use part number WR55X10942 control board. Some higher end GE model refrigerators with variable speed compressors use part number WR49X10152 for the control board. Replacing the motherboard is easy, and only takes about 15 minutes. Always be sure to look up the correct control board with the model number from the refrigerator first before ordering.
If you need to purchase a control board for you refrigerator please click the link below to visit our parts store. We usually have the lowest price on the internet for these control boards. If you have any questions or comments please post them in the comments section below.
GE Refrigerator Main Control Board – WR55X10942
What if the click is not consistent? My fridge give a sidle click at varying and inconsistent intervals.
Clicking noises coming from the control board are normal if they are not very consistent. Relays on the control board will make clicking noises when the control board is sending power to different things on the refrigerator (water or ice dispenser, compressor, ect).
how long does it take to send power to the relays?
I have 3 year-old GE Profile Fridge, up until two weeks ago, a knocking noise commenced every time I use the water dispenser. I pulled the fridge out and asked my sister to dispense water, then the waterline from the wall and the waterline on the back of the fridge commenced shaking. Now, the noise comes and goes after few trials; any idea on what’s causing it???? Your assistance is much appreciate it…
This can come from a plumbing problem, bad filter housing, bad water filter, or a bad water inlet valve on the refrigerator. See this thread on our repair forum for more information.
My refrigerator is not defrosting i already replaced the timer, defrost thermostat and the bottom heater and still not working refrigerator gets cold and everything works until gets full of ice any recommendations about this please help?
Please post your question on our repair forum and we can try to assist you with this problem there.
i have a ge profile refrigerator. It stopped cooling completely. It gives a four knocks near the bottom, followed by a clicking sound from the mother board area. The lights in the fridge blinks with the clicks. All of this is a perfect rhythm. There are no indicator lights{temperature settings} at all. The fan in back was running slow and would go of and on with the click. I replaced the board, compressor start and overload, {all used parts} but nothing changed. All began with a knocking noise only that would be about 4 quick knocks every couple of hours or so. The crisper has been freezing food for months now but everything worked fine. ice, and water door stopped working{lights would go out on door when pressing dispenser}. I cleaned fan coil, which were dirty. Any Help PLEASE!!!
I just replaced my motherboard with a new one and still having the same clicking on and off with it shutting down completely on and off. Did you find a answer or solution?
GE Profile refrigerator started to make a noise – two knocks and a low whirl – a few months ago (very infrequently). Now it’s happening much more often. I thought it might be the ice maker, but that’s working fine. Fridge no issue keeping temp. Any thoughts?
Sometimes when the compressor kicks on and the evaporator coil is cooling down it can make some knocking noises as the metal is rapidly changing temperatures.
Ok, thanks!
Just replaced Motherboard and still clicking…what else could cause this ?
Does the noise come from the main control board? Did you replace the board with a new OEM part?
Yes replaced the MB
This sounds just like what we are experiencing, except our model GTS21FGKEBB appears to not have a motherboard. Checked behind the fridge and everything is clean and fan is working. I think the freezer door is getting left slightly open and there is too much stuff jammed in the freezer, limiting air flow, but my supervisor/ wife disagrees. Any ideas?
Popping from the refer ever 5 min usually 6 to 8 pops.
My GE bottom freezer will not turn off at temp and keeps running. Any ideas?
Should I spend 450$ on a new motherboard on a 2006 GE profile refrigerator or buy a new one
I have a GE Profile fridge and there are approximately 4-5 clicks in the back before the condenser fan and motor start up to cool the fridge. The main controller board has been replaced (OEM) and the clicking is still present. Would this be a problem with the capacitor or overload circuit for the condensor?
You may want to check these two videos below to check the start relay and capacitor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nx7l9kY2_bU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PmK4ArtR5pQ
Hi
My frige is clicking…not regularly, random, sometimes for a long time but sometimes not. is cooling fine. but i have to assume something is wrong and it will eventually break. it also make other strange noises, randomly, squeaking, vibrating, the water works when it wants the ice wont come out of the whole but it does make ice.
I did try a new overload relay but made not difference. clicking is coming from motherboard can feel it when it happens…but not sure what way to go or just get a new one.
ge model GSL25IFRFBS 2006
or just buy a new one
2006
Trying to isolate between motherboard and inverter. Voltage measurement at J15 on motherboard is erratic varying from 0-6 volts. Does that confirm a bad motherboard? I checked the compressor resistance measurements they look good. Both fans are running no cooling GE profile French door