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0How To Test Oven Temperature Sensor
Testing the temperature sensor probe on your oven is easy. With the sensor at room temperature, measure the resistance between the two prongs at the end of the sensor connector. The resistance of the sensor should read approximately 1080 – 1090 ohms at room temperature. If you get a reading that is far off from that, you will need to replace the sensor. The oven temperature sensor sends the temperature reading to the control board so the control board knows how hot to heat up the oven. This test works for most common temperature sensors.
See the chart below for more temperature and resistance values.
If you find that you have a bad oven temperature sensor, you can search with the model number from your range/oven at the top of this page to find the correct oven temperature sensor for your model. Click here for common locations to find your model number tag.
Good Afternoon, I have a Frigidaire [Electrolux] Electric Range model FEFL79DBB. I have replaced the oven element but still have a problem obtaining the temperature set on the control panel. I think it may be a problem with the temperature probe. I found that I must have 1080 to 1090 resistance with an Ohm meter
at room temperature. Is it possible to test resistance without removing the part and accessing thru the
rear of the stove and opening the connector from the probe. Then test for resistance? Will I get a true reading?
If I don’t get the proper reading then I would order the part.
Thanking you in advance for a response.
Bert
Hi Bert,
The temp sensor could be bad at higher temperatures, but usually if it tests okay at room temp then it is usually good. If the sensor is good, then it is usually a bad control board that is causing the problem.
My sensor tests at 1103 at room temperature, would that be a good or bad sensor?
Depending on the temperature of your room that would most likely be good.
My oven sensor is reading 1065 ohms. Is that too low?
That is probably close enough depending on the temperature of your room.
I adjusted the oven temp to +20° and it is now fine when set to 350° but reads too high when set to 400°. My sensor tests at 1086 ohms room temp. Using the chart provided, should I test it again when the oven is pre-heated to 350 and 450? Or assume the control board is bad?
You could try testing the sensor at a higher temperature. It is possible for the sensor to be good at room temp but bad at higher temp, but it is not very common for this to happen. Most likely it is a bad control board. Also, if the temp sensor for your model isn’t too expensive, it might be worth swapping it out first anyways as they are usually much cheaper than a control board.
Mine is reading 1254 and its 72 in my house… the oven already does the pre heat stage but acts like its pre heated almost instantly so im wondering if this is normal?
That seems a little bit too high. I would recommend to replace the sensor.
My temp sensor reads 1400 at room temperature and then I heated it up to 350F and it reads 1790.. bad sensor causing under heating problems? Also the top element sometimes doesn’t come on in bake mode, is this because it thinks it’s hot already before heating?
The ohm values you are receiving are pretty far off so I would recommend to replace the sensor. Yes it would cause heating problems if the sensor bad. The broil element only comes on for very brief periods during the bake mode on most ovens.
I am testing my oven temperature sensor at room temperature (72 degrees farneheit) and it is coming in at 956, is that too low or acceptable?
That is far enough out of the normal range that the oven temperature sensor should be replaced.
I got a Maytag oven model number is mir8890as0. The problem I’m having is preheating the oven stay at 290f doesn’t go any higher. I replace the lower element it was bad but still does the same I check the temperature sensor at room temperature at 70 degree the ohm reading was around 1094. Is that to high of reading and should I replace it? As far what I can tell the board as no burnt or bad markings thanks
I don’t think the ohm value is far enough off at room temperature for it to be bad. The ohm value could be off at higher temperature though, so it can’t be ruled out completely. If the sensor is good, then it would most likely be a bad control board.
I have a Whirlpool oven, temperature drifts all over the place. Can be 20 degrees off sometimes, 125 degrees off a few minutes later. Also, it never seems to stabilize for long. No error codes. I ran Diagnostic mode and everything checks out. The Diagnostic mode reports it’s been nearly 4 years since the last error code was reported. I assume the oven itself to be 4 years old. I used the service manual to check resistance and voltage values on all relevant components. Everything checks out EXCEPT temperature sensor at high temperatures. Temp sensor is fine up to 100 degrees. Testing at 250, 350, 450 degrees it becomes increasingly off from the chart posted above. 250 degrees = 1400 ohms, 350 = 1600, 450 = 1800. The service manual only mentions to test the sensor at room temp. and if I had done that I would have purchased another oven to resolve the issue, since the temp sensor tests good at room temp. I suppose it may still be a control board issue, but the control board throws no errors, and frankly, it looks very simple, and all relays fire. That control board costs about 60% of a new oven! I’m going to try replacing that temp. sensor and I’ll report the results. This electronic appliance is so primitive, it really should last for over a decade. 4 yrs of life for what is considered one of the highest rated range ovens is ridiculous. And they all apparently come with a 1 yr warranty. Sounds like it’s all a scam to me. Never had to even think about replacing ovens in the 90’s.
My temp probe us showing 1139ohm at 67deg (room temp) is that to high
Yes that is far enough off that it would be a good idea to the replace the temperature sensor.
I get an f4 error after preheating. I have replaced the temp probe. How do I determine if the board is bad.
Usually just by process of elimination.
Frigidaire electric oven, neither broil nor bake elements heat at all suddenly. Control board is clicking as if trying to turn on. I’m wondering since neither broil or bake is working, more likely sensor? Not sure where to access it.
That doesn’t sound like an oven temp sensor problem, it sounds more like a failure of the control board that sends power to the bake and broil elements.
My temperature sensor reads within the normal range at room temperature. However, I removed the unit to discover that the wiring harness had completely melted. Is there a positive and negative on the sensor? I’m trying to make sure that if I directly connect without the plastic fixture I wire it correctly. Thank you for this resource.
No, the wires on the sensor do not have positive or negative.
How many volts should come from my control board to the temp sensor?
The control board is just reading the ohm value from the temp sensor, so a voltage test usually isn’t necessary.
My 2017 GE tested at 1075 ohm so I’m guessing my sensor is good. My issue is that my oven will shut off after a couple of minutes while being on. Maybe bad control board? How would one diagnose?
With the limited information provided, we would guess control board also. With control boards sometimes there isn’t a perfect way to diagnose every problem and sometimes you end up doing a process of elimination.
Trying to diagnose my Samsung NE59J7850WS/AA.
It has a Sensor Thermistor (longer, crimped at the end) and a temperature sensor (much shorter, rounded end)
Control board pings it’s come to temp, but using 2 separate thermometers in the oven shelf shows that’s not true (150, not the 450!)
Also a Thermostat somewhere apparently according to diagrams
Are the first two the same thing? It’s a double oven, the long one is in the top oven, short one in the bottom.
Thanks for helping us all.
Mart.
The oven temp sensors for this model are different lengths for the two ovens cavities.
I have a Kenmore gas range model 362.75581891 that I am trying to diagnose. It was giving me F error codes during the preheat, and bake cycle, sometimes it would not shut off unless I unplugged it. It has been several years so I do not remember which F number. While cleaning the area where the clock/oven knob is at, I had sprayed some windex there, and as I was wiping I bumped the oven knob, a spark happened, and the oven/broiler has never worked since. The clock, and timer do work. The stove top also works. I assume do to the spark there may be a problem with the control board, but I decided to start testing with the oven temperature sensor first. I removed it from the oven, and am using a multimeter to see what the ohms are. I am not good at all with a multimeter, and am not sure how to interpret my readings. It does not have a audible setting, it’s a Commercial Electric digital brand. When I set it to 2K I get a reading of .047. At the 200 setting I get 25.6. I should get 1080 to 1100 correct? Is this sensor bad, or do I multiply my readings to get the correct number of ohms? Thank you.
Kenmore Oven
I need some help.
When Set to 350 for example.. the oven keeps on heating waaay past that point…burning contents.
tested Thermostat – exactly 1100 Ohms. Tested elements. 30 ohms..
what else can cause oven to overheat soo much.
Control Board??
any assistance on what to check and how greatly appreciated…cannot afford to replace. no error codes seen.
thank you.
It sounds like it a bad control board from what you are describing. It is normal for the oven to overshoot the set temp by 25-50 degrees during the preheat cycle. After that it should start to level out and average closer to 350.
Electric wall oven by whirlpool purchased 5/2019
Service guy said no error code, no problem!.
The preheat cycle reads oven preheated insert food. Service guy said wait an exerts 20 minutes. The control will read 375 degrees. The temp is so low that what took 10 minutes to bake biscuits now takes 25 minutes.
It is definitely possible to have a problem and not have an error code.
I have an older Amana Range purchased new in 2004. Several years ago it began heating up to much when you try and use the oven. We replaced it and kept it for our cabin which we just finished. There is no heat in the cabin and I missed the part about checking the OHM’s at room temp. I checked it last night, it was about 36 degrees in the cabin and OHM’d out at 1002. Would this be a faulty temp sensor? Or should I remove it and test it at room temp.
Thanks
It would be best to re-test it at room temperature. They don’t show the ohm values at that low of a temperature.
My sensor is at 990 ohms at room temperature is this consider to far out?
all ptc sensor on market have this Ohm resistance??
The only ones we have seen with a different ohm scale is some older GE models.
Thanks a a Lot Ryan, very helpful!!
I have a broil element that is no longer working. It has continuity through it and the power supplied to it is 124 volts so I think that is all working correctly. Could my temperature probe be affecting the broil element itself?
Most electric range/ovens in the use operate the heating elements with 220-240v.
I have a Fagor FBI981 double oven. The top oven is UK but the main lower oven has developed a fault whereby when switched on the temperature goes sky high and cuts out. I checked the resistance of the sensor and got a reading of 545 Ohms at room temperature. So I purchased a new sensor online but the fault persisted. I checked the resistance and found that it showed 545 Ohms on the newly purchased part. Question is do Fagor use a sensor with a different resistance scale to other makes? What else could be wrong, do you think?
You will want to check with the manufacture for their specifications. We only deal with residential appliances so we don’t have any experience with that brand.
My jenn air needs to be set at 375 to get to 350. My temp sensor reads 1072 at 68 degree. Thoughts?
If the sensor is good then it is most likely a bad control board. You could also check to see if your model range has a calibration setting for the control board.
have a whirlpool electric oven (1 year old) stove top works fine, oven elements start to heat a little (you can touch without burning finger, then nothing) elements test ok, temp sensor test no ohms , so I believe that is bad. also the oven light wont come on , no power to the light connectors on rear of oven ,getting ohm reading on light connectors when wires are removed (so I believe the bulb is good).
would bad sensor cause the problem with not heating of the oven?
why would light circuit not get power?
could it be thermal fuse?
I have a Jenn-Air JDR8895AAS double oven range. Sometimes when cooking in the electric oven at higher temperatures, the oven will overheat and cut out. The clock goes black and flashes. When the oven cools down, the clock will turn back on and continue cooking. The same thing happens when I use the self cleaning feature. Replacing the control panel did not solve the problem.
Oven ( jds9861aap) doesn’t heat right. My temperature probe tested 1340 ohms at 65 degrees so I bought a new one. After replacing the temperature probe the oven gives an F3 code as soon as I turn bake on. Testing the new probe shows 1085 ohms at 65 degrees. Putting the old probe back on gets the oven to turn on again but it still won’t heat to the right temperature. If there anything else I can do before buying a new board?
Hi , I have a Zanussi zcv66330ba cooker. The issue we’ve had is the top oven is ok but the bottom oven keeps cutting out after 5/10 mins including the light. . I have replaced the element and also the 140c thermostat(cutout I think) and another thermostat. Today I took the oven apart ( yet again!) and tested the temperature sensor/thermostat with a brand new digital multimeter! The thing is I’m a bit confused. Looked on YouTube on several fixits etc but …..I put the multimeter on ohms, connected the thermostat when it’s turned off. No reading. Then turn the switch on , it beeps for continuity but no reading for this which I believe should be around 1100 ohms? Does this mean the sensor has had it? I hope it’s not the control board! 😩 Many thanks Steve
I have a samsung ne59j7630sg oven that that tries to turn on and then beeps and flashes c20 and c-d1 error codes, temp sensor and door latch. I haven’t used the self-cleaning in a long while so the door should not attempt to lock. i removed the temp sensor to run an ohm test, but I am not getting any resistance reading. Also, the clock does not stay on after the beeping just a c-d1 error code displays. Do not know whether to suspect the sensor or control board. Thanks for any leads. Sam
Hi there,
I have a John Lewis oven: JLBIOS608 which is showing an F8 code.
I have continuity to the control board and heating element but don’t know what the voltage to the control board should be to test that.
The temperature sensor appears to be giving me resistance of 500 ohms – is this likely to be me measuring it incorrectly or a more likely a faulty sensor?
Any advice you may be able to give me would be very welcome before I go ahead and purchase a replacement control board or sensor.
Kind Regards,
Dave
My 2003 Zanussi oven came with a sensor (Correge 372316103.01) that now appears to be faulty. Unfortunately the company has decided to discontinue the part, therefore, unless I find a suitable sensor myself, I’ll have to dump a perfectly good oven. Can you please help with an equivalent item that can still be found on the market?
my electric oven won’t heat up .
temp sensor reads 1023 ohms is that to low at room temp 72degrees.
I am getting OL on my meter does that mean that I have a broken wire?
Hi,
My Whirlpool heating drawer temperature sensor shows a resistance of zero ohms when I test it. I assume that it needs to be replaced but wanted to check first since the relatively simple part costs upwards of $100.
Thanks
our ge electric oven has an f20 error. and this even occurs sometimes after the grill is off for a while. the motherboard has been replaced and we still get the error.
both oven sensors were read at room temp to be about 1700 ohms. that sounds high based on your comments(should be ~1100) but our service guy said they were ok.
before we replace the motherboard again, is it still possible that our f20 problem is with the ‘bad’ sensors? thanks
Hello,
I have a Frigidaire model FGEF3032MWD and the sensor reads about 1126 ohms at 71 degrees in the kitchen right now. When I use the oven, it runs normally for a bit, and soon flashes F10 error, which is runaway temperature. Do you think a new sensor will fix it, or is the problem going to be the control panel?
Thanks for any advice.
Jody
It could be either part. Since the sensor is off at room temperature, it might be best to start with that first.
i have a Kitchenaid in wall oven KEMC308KSS04
the temp is usually low but will sometimes eventually get up to close to temp.
i will test the sensor but have a question on removing it. the videos show on a free standing oven to access the plug from the rear. that is a pain for me as it means removing the oven from the wall. will the cord on the sensor be long enough to pull through the hole and change or remove the sensor without removing the oven from the wall?
thanks
Are sensors interchangeable, or do I need the exact one for my model? Can I replace a short sensor with a long one?
The sensors can usually be interchanged if they have the same resistance scale. The length of the sensor should match. You may also have to splice the wiring with porcelain wire nuts.