Monthly Archives: June 2011

Maytag Dryer Rumbles On Start – Bad Blower Wheel

Posted on June 29, 2011

On older style Maytag & Jenn Air dryers, the blower wheel often fails with age.  The blower wheel connects to the motor and is the fan that blows the air through the dryer.  When the blower wheel fails you will often hear a rumbling noise come from the dryer when you start it, and then again when you turn it off.  Also you may start to notice the clothes taking longer to dry than normal since the blower wheel isn’t spinning as fast as it’s supposed to.

What goes bad on the blower wheel is the flat spot that is supposed to bed on the blower wheel.  On a bad blower wheel the center will be round out.

(bad blower wheel)

On a good blower wheel the center will have a “D” shape with a flat spot for the motor shaft to grab onto.

(good blower wheel)

 

The manufacturer part number for the blower wheel is Y303836, and sometimes they will have the number 3-12913 stamped on the plastic.  Click the link below to purchase the blower wheel from our store.

Blower Wheel – Y303836

 

GE Washer Won’t Agitate – Air Bell Coupler

Posted on June 28, 2011

Some GE built washing machines use a piece called a air bell coupling to connect the agitator to the transmission.  To access this part you need to remove the agitator, to do this you need to grab the base of the agitator and firmly pull up on it.  There are no bolts/nuts holding it down.  Once the agitator has been removed you will see the air bell coupler, there is a single bolt on the top of it to remove it.  With the air bell coupling removed take a close look at the splines on the inside of it, the splines should go ALL the way through.  If any of it is stripped out, then it needs to be replaced.

Notice in the picture above that the splines only go for about 1/8″ before it strips out.  Past that it is all rounded out on the inside.  That is what will cause the agitator not to move.

Whirlpool/Kenmore Dryer Idler Pulley Squeak

Posted on June 26, 2011

For a few years Whirlpool decided to try using a different style idler pulley (belt tension pulley) on their 29″ wide dryers with the lint filter located on the top of the dryer.  They did this for about 2-3 years, and then they decided to go back to the original idler pulley that they had used for years previously.

This poorly designed idler pulley uses a piece of stamped metal with a plastic/teflon piece attached to it where the belt rides to reduce the friction.  Over time this idler pulley will start to make loud squealing noises or even high pitched whines.  Sometimes the squeak will be louder when the dryer starts, and then go away.  Whirlpool has now gone back to the original design that uses a wheel that fixes this squeaking noise.

Bad Squeaking Idler Pulley

Part to fix the problem.  Part Number PD00002256  (mfg #691366)

For a little bit more you can get a maintenance kit part number PD00002464 (mfg#4392065), that includes the idler pulley, belt, and rear drum rollers.

Whirlpool Washer Doesn’t Spin Out Well

Posted on June 25, 2011

On Whirlpool built direct drive top load washing machines (also built under the Kenmore, Estate, Roper, Inglis, Kitchen Aid, Maytag, and Amana brand names) the motor is directly connected to the transmission and no belt is used.  When people complain that the washer doesn’t seem to spin out the clothes as well as it used to, it is commonly the transmission leaking grease that causes this problem.  What happens is the seal on the top of the transmission goes bad and leaks grease onto the clutch.  Once the grease gets onto the clutch, the clutch doesn’t have enough friction to spin the tub.  Lighter loads will usually spin out better than bigger heavier loads. Continue Reading – To Find Out If Your Washer Is Leaking Grease…

Duet Dryer Takes Too Long To Dry

Posted on June 24, 2011

On Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite HE3 style dryers they will commonly build up with lint inside the blower housing.  The blower housing is underneath where the lint filter on the dryer goes.  To clean out the blower housing you can either stick brush down where the lint filter goes.  Or the better option is to unplug the dryer, remove the lint filter, remove the two screws that hold on the bottom panel of the dryer, and then remove the two-four (depending on the model) screws that hold on the blower housing.  Clean all of the lint out real well and then re-install.

When the blower housing is clogged with lint, the dryer will work less efficiently and clothes will take longer to dry.  Other things a clogged blower housing can cause is blown thermal fuses, heating elements to burn out, and its also a fire hazard.

 

Parts Dr

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