Motor Control Unit

Motor Control Unit

Ted from NE

Drum would not rotate

1/4" nut driver bit in drill driver to remove back panel, channel locks to loosen water hoses

Slid washer out to get to the hoses on back of machine, unplugged machine from 110 outlet. Shut off water valve at wall then removed hoses. Slid washing machine farther out to get in behind. removed rear access panel. Motor Control Unit is located below and to the left of the drum, removed drain hose from clips on the top of the MCU. Removed the 3 connectors attached to the MCU PC board. Released the locking tab and removed the unit from the washing machine frame. You can pry off the clip that holds the wires to the housing and insert in the new housing, but I released the 3 PC board retainer clips and removed the old board and then snapped the new one in place into the old housing. I inserted and locked the new assembly back into the retainer holes of the frame, attached the drain hose to the top of the housing and reattached the wire connectors, being careful to make sure they were aligned and seated properly. Plugged the unit back into AC and ran the system test. Motor worked in the test so replaced the back panel and and connected hoses, turned the water valve on, and slid unit back into position. Have washed 12 loads and all is good. Time was about an hour, simple fix just had to wait for the part a couple of days. Very satisfied with Part Dr shipping response. Part was here a day before they said it would be. Great job. Thanks

Motor Control Unit

Mkali from TX

F6E1 Communication Error between CCU & MCU these was determined by running diagnosis test & check continuity.

Ohms meter, 1/4 nut driver, Philip screw driver.

Door was locking for longer than usual & No water in the washer, Tub will not spin.

Motor Control Unit

Jason from OH

Blown Motor Control Unit

Flathead screwdriver, 1/4" socket screwdriver, channel locks

The codes indicated possible MCU failure. Pulled the washer away from wall, shut off h/c supply valves, disconnected supply hoses from wall. You may be able to get away with not doing this, depending on access from behind. Removed all 1/4" screws from panel except the one in top-center that's got a slotted notch on the panel (loosen only, so it can safely hang for easy removal when all other screws are removed). Remove panel, and struts (they just slide up and off). MCU is in a white plastic housing, bottom left. Remove connectors (TAKE A PICTURE FIRST OF WHERE THEY GO). Flathead to help unfasten the housing's front bottom clip, slide housing back and up and out of washer. I took the board out of the housing and it had burn points, fried. To reinstall new unit, go in reverse, BUT I recommend while you're in there, removing and cleaning all hose connections. I soaked mine in vinegar, then bleach (not both, DO NOT MIX!!!). I was also able to unscrew and remove and clean the filter, which is a big white cap with a grip to turn it; it faces the front of the washer so you're doing it blind but it's easy and there's enough space to loosen and remove it. Prepare for (STINKY) water to drain out with all these removals. The filter is keyed, so there's no messing up reinstallation. Goes in one way only. Don't forget to re-clip hoses where they get clipped (like to the top of MCU for example).