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Appliance Repair Blog

How To Replace 34001320 Neptune Drain Pump

Posted on July 14, 2014

Replacing the 34001320 drain pump on your Maytag Neptune washer is easy to do. This pump is found on many newer Maytag Neptune washing machines. When this pump goes bad or jams up (something gets stuck in the impeller), the washer will display an “ND” (No Drain) error code. Here is on how replace the drain pump:

The drain pump is located in the back of the washer.

First unplug the washer.

Then remove the two screws holding on the back panel.


Slide the panel up, and then pull out to remove the panel.

You should now see the pump on the left hand side. Remove the electrical connector (left red arrow).

Before removing the hose clamps, have a wet shop vac ready to suck up the water. I usually try to suck all of the water through the drain hose by putting the hose from the vacuum on the end of the drain hose and sealing the gap with my hand. If that doesn’t work then slowly remove one of the drain hoses and try to suck up all of the water before removing the hose all of the way.

Once all of the water is drained out then removed both hose clamps (middle and right red arrow). You’ll notice the clamps in the picture look different than the clamps that come with the washer. The clamps that come from the factory are weak and often leak, I would recommend upgrading these to worm gear style clamps while you have this apart.

Next remove the three 1/2 inch bolts holding the pump to the base of the washer (3 orange arrows).

With the pump removed look for anything stuck in the pump, and look to see that the three blades on the impeller look good. If the pump is bad, replace the pump.


Reassemble in the reverse order.

If you have a bad drain pump and need to purchase a new one, please click the link below:

Drain Pump Assembly – 34001320

If part number 34001320 is not available, you can use part number DC96-00774A in its place.

Drain Pump Assembly – DC96-00774A

How To Replace Frigidaire 316075103 Bake Element

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Replacing the bake heating element on your Frigidaire built range is very easy.  In most cases, it should only take about 10 minutes.  The most common element used in Frigidaire ovens is part number 316075103.  This is the newest version of this element, some of the older part numbers for this element were 316075104 and 316075102, but they have been replaced with the newer 316075103 part number.

Note – This element is made by Frigidaire, but it may also found in these other brands:  Admiral, Crosley, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Montgomery Wards, Tappan, White Westinghouse

Here is how to replace the 316075103 in your range:

First, before working on the stove, make sure it is unplugged.

Next, open the door and remove both of the oven racks.

Now remove the two 1/4″ hex head mounting screws on the back oven wall using a 1/4″ nut driver or socket.

Here is a closeup of the 1/4″ mounting screw.
Now carefully pull the element out of the back of the range.  Make sure the wires do not catch on anything and become disconnected.  There is not much extra wire, only about 1-2″.
With the element pulled out, carefully disconnect the spade terminals from the element.

Reinstall the new heating element in the reverse order.

If your heating element is burned out and you need to order a new one, click the link below:

Frigidaire Bake Heating Element – 316075103 (PD00046042)

Whirlpool Duet Washer F30 Error Code

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Whirlpool Duet front loading washers use a motor on top of the dispenser assembly to switch the water in the dispenser between washing out the soap, bleach, and fabric softener compartments of the dispenser.  When the washer first starts, it tests to see if the dispenser is working correctly.  If it senses a problem, it won’t start the wash cycle and it will eventually come up with an F30 error code.  The F-30 error code means that there is a “dispenser system error”.

There are a few things that can cause the F30 error code to occur.  Here is what you will need to check:

  • First unplug the washer and remove the 3 mounting screws securing the top panel on the back side of the washer.  Slide the top panel backwards to remove.
  • Check the linkage going from the dispenser motor to the dispenser.  Make sure that the are no obstructions.
  • Check the wiring and electrical connections going from the dispenser motor and the main control board (CCU).
  • If the dispenser motor is turning but making clicking noises or continually turns, then the dispenser motor has probably failed and will need to be replaced.
  • If everything else checks out okay, then the central control unit (CCU) will need to be replaced.

Here is how to replace the W10352973 dispenser/detergent motor:

  • First unplug the washer before working on it
  • Now remove the top panel by removing the three T-20 torx screws and sliding the top panel towards the back of the washer to release it
  • Next remove the wire connectors to the dispenser motor.  Lift the locking tabs and pull them out to remove.  (Note:  when re-installing, the connector with the blue stripe on it goes on the top)
  • Remove the cam actuator from the motor shaft by gently prying up on it to unsnap it from the motor shaft.
  • Remove the mounting screw(s)
  • Re-install in the reverse order


If you have a bad detergent dispenser motor and need to order a new one for your washer, please click the link below.  Please note the part number listed below is the common dispenser motor found on Whirlpool Duet models, the smaller Duet Sport models commonly use part number W10143586.  Please search by your model number or contact us with your model number so we can verify you are ordering the correct part number.

How To Install W10248240 Load Sensing Switch

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Some newer top load washing machines built by Whirlpool (also found under the Maytag and Kenmore brand names) use a load sensing switch to control the water level inside the washer.  On older washers this part was called a pressure switch.  This sensor switch is located in the top console of the washer, and is usually labeled as the water temperature control (A.T.C. control).  This switch senses the load inside the washer, and automatically adjusts the water level in the tub to the proper level.

Common symptoms that this part has when it fails are: filling with water at the very end of the cycle and agitating while filling with water.  Whirlpool has not released information on how to test this part out, so you will have to narrow down your problem with a process of elimination.  Other parts that can cause similar symptoms to a bad load sense switch are a bad timer, water inlet valve, and a clogged or kinked pressure hose (blowing through this is a good way to make sure it is clear).

If you are having repeated failures of this part, please check to make sure that the drain hose of the washing machine is at least 42″ from the floor and that it is draining into an open stand pipe or laundry tub.  If the drain hose is too low or the pipe/tub that the washing is draining into is not draining at a quick enough rate it can cause the water in the washer to be siphoned out which can damage the sensor switch and cause it to fail.

Here is how to replace the W10248240 Load Sensing Switch
First unplug the washing machine before working on it.

The sensor switch is labeled as the water temperature switch.  Remove this knob.

Next, you will need to access the top console.  This is done by using a putty knife to depress the two clips on the left & right hand sides.  Some models may use two Phillips screws on the back side of the washer to secure the console.  The console will then rotate back and out of the way.

Here is the console flipped out of the way

With the console flipped back and out of the way you will now have access to the sensor switch.  Remove the pressure hose and the two wire connectors going to the switch.  Then to remove the switch from the console you will need to lift up on the tab on the right hand side, and then rotate the switch 1/4 turn counter-clockwise to remove.


Re-install in the new part in the reverse order.

If you have a bad sensor switch and need to purchase a new one, please click one of the links below.  There are two different sensor switches and you can either check to see if your model number is listed below or you can get the part number from the back of the old part to make sure you are ordering the correct part number.

Temperature Sensor Switch – W10248240
Compatible model numbers: 110.29822801, 110.29832801, 1CWTW57ESVW1, MVWC5ESXW0, MVWC6ESWW1, MVWC7ESWW0, WTW57ESVH1, WTW57ESVW1, WTW58ESVW1

Pressure Sensor Switch – W10292584
Compatible model numbers: 110.29822800, 110.29832800, 1CWTW57ESVW0, MVWC6ESWW0, WTW57ESVH0, WTW57ESVW0, WTW58ESVW0

GE WR30X10097 Ice Maker – Service & Replacement Info

Posted on July 11, 2014

One of the most common questions I get asked by customers is about the GE WR30X10097 ice maker found in GE french door refrigerators.  This ice maker will commonly start to make a clicking noise when it fails, and it won’t produce ice properly or won’t make any ice at all.  When something fails on this ice maker, the whole ice maker must be replaced as an assembly; there are no replacement parts sold separately for these ice makers.

How To Replace The Ice Maker

What’s the difference between the Samsung DA97-05422A (Aka IMC701) & GE WR30X10097?

GE Service Bulletin (Model made before 3/1/2008)

I Replaced My Ice Maker And It Still Doesn’t Work

Where Can I Buy A Replacement Ice Maker?

Have More Questions?

How To Replace The WR30X10097 Ice Maker

First unplug your refrigerator, and remove the ice bin container. Remove the Phillips screw on the left side, this will allow you to remove the plastic panel that covers the wiring harness going to the ice maker. Unplug the wire connector going to the ice maker, and then push down on the locking tab on the top of the ice maker while pulling it towards you to remove it. The ice maker should now be free, and you can re-install the new ice maker in the reverse order.


What’s the difference between the Samsung DA97-05422A (Aka IMC701) & GE WR30X10097 Ice Makers?

If you have already removed your old ice maker, you may have noticed that on the bottom of the ice maker there is a sticker that says Samsung on the bottom of it. Even though the refrigerator is a GE refrigerator, the ice maker was built by Samsung for GE (along with some other components on the refrigerator). The sticker usually says “Model: IMC701”, lists the manufacture date, and lists the DA97-05422A part number in the bottom right corner. You can buy the replacement ice maker from GE, the part number for the replacement ice maker sold by GE is WR30X10097. You can save yourself a lot of money if you buy the same ice maker sold by Samsung. The DA97-05422A is the Samsung part number for the same ice maker.


GE Service Bulletin (Model made before 3/1/2008)

Some GE refrigerator models manufactured before March of 2008 require the ice maker and the main control board to be replaced to prevent further issues. The control board (part number WR55X10763) is replaced with a version that includes a newer software version. These ice makers can have symptoms of ice jamming between the ice maker and the liner, clicking & grinding noises, and low or no ice production. This service bulletin only affects certain model and serial number refrigerators, please make sure yours is part of this service bulletin before ordering the control board.

To access the main control board, you will need to unplug the refrigerator and pull out the refrigerator so you have access to the back side. Remove the screws to the control board cover, and you will have access to look at the tag on the control board to see what software version you have. The control board will need to be replaced if the software version is lower than 4.02. See the service sheet below for more information.

Models Affected: PFSS6 & PFSF6
Manufacture Date: July 2007 – Feb 2008
Serial Numbers: MM070000 – DR079999

WR30X10097 Service Sheet

I Replaced My Ice Maker And It Still Doesn’t Work

There are multiple things that can cause your ice maker not to work. First check to see if you have water flowing to the refrigerator. Check in your owners manual & installation instructions that came with the refrigerator, it should state how much water pressure should be at the refrigerator. Low water pressure can make small ice cubes which can cause ice maker failures. If you have a water filter system in your house, then make sure you bypass the water filter inside the refrigerator. Doubling up on filters only lowers the water pressure further. If you haven’t replaced your water filter in the last 6-12 months, then replacing the water filter can help improve water flow. Most GE refrigerator models use the MWF water filter. The other components that work with the ice maker to make ice are the water inlet valve, and the main control board on the refrigerator. The temperature in the ice maker compartment must be less than 10°F to work properly. To check the temperature you should put an accurate thermometer in the ice bin for a few hours to see if it is cooling down to the proper temperature.

On the side of the ice maker is a test switch. Firmly press this button for a few seconds and the ice maker should go through a harvest cycle by dumping out the ice in the ice maker and filling up with water again.


Where Can I Buy A Replacement Ice Maker?

You can buy a replacement ice maker from our website, please click the link below. Parts Dr always has the lowest prices for new O.E.M. replacement parts.

Samsung Ice Maker – DA97-05422A (IMC701)

Questions or Comments?

Have Any Questions?  Please post them in the comments section below and one of our experts will answer your question as soon as possible.

How To Replace Whirlpool 279838 Heating Element

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One of the most common repairs done to dryers is replacing the heating element.  This is an easy task that most any DIYer can tackle themselves.  The most common heating element found on Whirlpool dryers is part number 279838, this element is sometimes called the “shorty” because of its small size compared to its larger predecessor used on older Whirlpool dryers part number 4391960.

How To Replace The 279838 Heating Element

How To Test The 279838 Heating Element

My Dryer Still Doesn’t Heat After Replacing The Element

Where Can I Buy A Genuine Whirlpool 279838 Heating Element?

How to replace the 279838 heating element:

First before working on the dryer, you will need to unplug and remove the exhaust vent from the dryer.

Next, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer. Remove the nine 1/4″ screws and then tilt the panel back and lift up to remove.


Now remove the wires going to the heating element and high limit thermostat.  Some dryers may have up to five wires, so make sure to note the place and position of each wire.  The high limit thermostat is the part attached to the left side of the heating element.  Newer dryers will use a push on style high limit thermostat part number 3977767, and older dryers use a thermostat that is attached with one or two 1/4″ screws part number 3390291.


Remove the two 1/4″ mountings screws on the left and right sides.


With the two mounting screws removed, pull back on the bottom of the element, and then slide it down to remove it from the dryer.


Remove the high limit thermostat from the old heating element and transfer it over to the new heating element.  You will have to pry up on it if you have a newer style thermostat, or you will have to remove the mounting screw(s) if you have an older style thermostat.


Re-install everything in the reverse order. Make sure to check your dryer vent and blower housing (where the lint filter slides into) for any vent restrictions. This is the number one thing that causes heating elements to burn out prematurely.

My Dryer Still Doesn’t Heat

Multiple things on a dryer can cause dryers not to heat. The heating element is just one of many things that can cause your dryer not to heat. The second most common thing that causes these dryers not to heat is a bad thermal fuse. There are two thermal fuses, one is right next to the blower fan and one is on the heater box. The common blower thermal fuse is part number 3392519 and when that goes bad you should also replace the operating thermostat (Usually part number 3387134 or 694674). Whirlpool sells the high limit thermal fuse and thermostat on the heater box as a kit. Newer dryers use part number 279816 and older dryers use part number 279769. If you have a bad thermal fuse, then your dryer got too hot. Check your dryer and venting for any restrictions. Also make sure your heating element is not shorted to ground (this causes the heating element to stay on all the time).

Electric dryers also require 220-240 volts to work properly, if you only have 120v going to the dryer it is possible for it to run but not heat. The timer, motor, and bad wiring can also cause heating problems on dryers. All parts are specific to your model dryer, so please contact us before ordering parts.

How To Test The 279838 Heating Element

To test your heating element you will need to first remove the heating element from the dryer (follow the above instructions to remove the element). With the element removed from the dryer, do a visual inspection of the element. Often times you will be able to see a break in the heating coil. Sometimes it even helps to grab each section of the coil and wiggle it to make sure there isn’t a break in it. If you can’t see a break in the coil, then you will need an Ohm meter or Multi-Meter to test the heating element. Place one probe on each terminal of the heating element, you should get a reading of approximately 9-10 ohms on a good element. If you get no resistance, then the element is bad and will need to be replaced.

Where Can I Buy a Genuine Whirlpool 279838 Heating Element?

Parts Dr sells new genuine OEM Whirlpool replacement heating elements. You will often find knockoff heating elements sold for less money. These elements are lower quality, and don’t hold up as well in the long run. Visit the link below to visit our store to purchase a genuine Whirlpool 279838 heating element.

Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element  – 279838


W10503278 Control Board – Service & Replacement Info

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The W10503278 control board is found on some Whirlpool built refrigerators with the freezer on the bottom. It can be found in Admiral, Amana, Jenn Air, Kenmore, Kitchen Aid, Maytag, and Whirlpool brand refrigerators. This control board controls most of the main functions on the refrigerator. It takes the place of a defrost timer and controls the automatic defrost cycle. It also controls the compressor, refrigerator & freezer temperatures, and the evaporator and condenser fan motors.

How To Replace The W10503278 Control Board

First, unplug the refrigerator before working on it.

Then remove the light cover by sliding it towards the back of the refrigerator.


Next depress the two tabs through the two slots on the back side of the light housing with a flat head screw driver.  This will allow the control board housing to flip down.  Then remove the two wire connectors to the control board.


Now depress the two tabs that lock in the two separate sections of the control board.  Remove the old control board, and re-install the new control board.


The new control board comes as one piece, and you will have to snap the board at the break line to separate the new control board into two pieces before installing.  Once this is done, you can re-install everything in the reverse order.

With the new control panel installed, you will need to follow these instructions to program the control board to work with your refrigerator.

If you need to purchase a new W10503278 control board for your refrigerator, you can click the link below:

Control Board – W10503278


W10757851 Ice Level Optics Board Diagnostics & Replacement

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Whirlpool built refrigerators (also found on Jenn Air, Kenmore, Kitchen Aid, and Maytag brand refrigerators) with the ice bin located in the door use two optic control boards (part# W10757851) to tell when the ice bin is full of ice. There is an emitter control board that sends out an infrared beam, and a receiver board that receives the infrared beam. When the ice container fills up with ice, the beam is blocked, and it tells the ice maker to stop filling up with ice. If the ice maker optic control boards fail, it can cause the ice maker to continue to make ice even when it is full of ice or turned off, or it can cause the ice maker to not produce any ice at all. The optics control boards are replaced as a set, even if only one of the two control boards are bad, both will need to be replaced.

How To Test The Whirlpool Ice Maker Optic Control Boards W10757851

First, open the freezer door and look at the status LED on the right hand side. Make sure the ice maker control is turned “ON”. The status LED should blink twice, pause, and then repeat (blink blink…. pause. blink blink… pause).


Next, with the freezer door open, hold down the flapper door on the left hand side to un-block the optics beam.  With the optics beam unblocked, the status LED should light up and stay on (not blink).  If the status LED continues to blink twice, then you have faulty optic control boards and they will need to be replaced.


If there is no status LED light, then the ice maker could be in “harvest” mode.  Hold down the freezer light switch, the status LED should flash every second while in harvest mode.  If the LED light still does not light up, then the optic control boards will need to be replaced.

How To Replace The Whirlpool Ice Maker Optic Control Boards W10757851

First, unplug the refrigerator.

Remove the three Phillips screws on the right hand side.


Disconnect the wire harness on the back side and then remove the two Phillips screws to release the receiver control board from the housing.  Re-install the receiver board in the reverse order.


Next, remove the three Phillips screws on the left hand side.


Disconnect the wire harness on the top side and then remove the two Phillips screws to release the emitter control board from the housing.  Re-install the emitter board in the reverse order.


Do you need to replace the optic control boards?  Click the link below to visit our store and purchase new ones.  Be careful when shopping around for this part, as many stores sell a lower quality knockoff version of this part.  You can be assured when you order the optics control board kit from Parts Dr that you are receiving a new OEM part.

Ice Level Optics Control Board Kit – Part # W10757851


How To Test a GE Refrigerator Thermistor Sensor

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Some newer GE model refrigerators manufactured after 2002 use a thermistor in the refrigerator and freezer sections to control the temperature and the automatic defrost cycle. The thermistor is a variable resistor that varies its resistance depending on the temperature. It is sometimes referred to as a temperature sensor. GE used these thermistors on some Side-by-Side, bottom freezer, and top freezer refrigerator models that use a main control board on the back of the refrigerator. The main control board monitors and reads all of the thermistors to properly control all of the functions of the refrigerator. Please note that all of the thermistors on these models are the same.

**Before working on your refrigerator, make sure the refrigerator is unplugged.**

Thermistor Locations & Functions

Refrigerator Section: The refrigerator may have one or two thermistors located in different areas to monitor the temperature in the refrigerator section. These sensors send their signal to the main control board, which may turn on/off the compressor or evaporator fan motor, or open/close the air damper to let more or less cold air into the refrigerator compartment. When one of these sensors fails, it can cause the temperature to be off or even cause the refrigerator not to run (not very common).Freezer Section: The freezer section has one thermistor sensor, not including the thermistor on the evaporator coil (see below). This sensor sends its signal to the main control board which may turn the compressor on/off or turn the evaporator fan motor on/off. When this sensor fails, it can cause the temperature to be off or even cause the refrigerator not to run (not very common).Evaporator Coil: The evaporator coil (located behind the back panel in the freezer section) has one thermistor sensor attached to the top side of the evaporator coil. The control board monitors this thermistor and uses it to know when to go in and out of the automatic defrost cycle. Some people refer to this thermistor as the defrost sensor. This is the most common sensor to fail because it is subject to extreme temperature changes and moisture. When this sensor fails it can cause the refrigerator to not go through the automatic defrost cycle properly. When replacing this sensor, you must first manually defrost the evaporator coil to get it caught back up for the refrigerator to continue to work properly going forward.

Old Style Vs. New Style Thermistor

Some refrigerator manufactured 2005 and earlier may have a thermistor design that is prone to failure. The differences between the old and new style thermistor is easy to spot. The old style thermistor has a black area around where the wires come out of the sensor and it also has a rounded tip. The new style sensor is white around where the wires come out of the sensor and the tip of the sensor is flat. If your refrigerator has the old style thermistor sensors, then you should change out all of the thermistors with the new style sensor.

The old style thermistor is pictured on the left with a round tip and the new style thermistor is pictured on the right with a flat tip.


The old style thermistor is pictured on the left with a round tip and the new style thermistor is pictured on the right with a flat tip.


How To Test The Thermistor

You can test your thermistor(s) using an ohm meter or multi-meter. The best way to do this is to remove the thermistor from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature or grab a glass of ice water to test the thermistor. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. If the reading you are getting is not consistent; where sometimes the ohm reading is correct and other times it isn’t, even though the temperature hasn’t changed, then the thermistor should be replaced.

Where to Buy

The common thermistor used on some GE refrigerators is part number WR55X10025. Thermistors are model specific and should be verified with the model number of the refrigerator before ordering. This is the newest version of this part, and has been improved to have less problems. Click the link below to visit our store to purchase a replacement thermistor sensor.

Temperature Sensor (Thermistor) – Part # WR55X10025

Do I Need The DA81-01421A Ice Maker Kit?

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A common question that we frequently get asked by our customers is whether they can just replace their ice maker (part number DA97-05422A), or if they need the kit that includes the ice maker and main control board (part number DA81-01421A).  Please note that the ice maker and control board kit only works with the four model numbers listed below and it does NOT work with any GE refrigerator models.

Ice Maker Symptoms

The ice maker and control board kit may take care of one or more of the following symptoms:
  • No or low ice production.
  • Ice cubes jamming between the ice tray and the liner of the refrigerator.
  • A clicking or grinding noise coming from the ice maker.

Model Numbers Affected

If your model number is one of the four models list below, then you may need to replace to replace the main control board along with the ice maker at the same time.  See below on how to check the software version.  If your model is not listed, then you already have the newer software, and the main board is not required to be replaced at the same time as the ice maker.

Check the Main Control Board Software

To check the software version of the main control board, you will need to unplug the refrigerator and remove the cover to the main control board on the back side of the refrigerator.  On one of the main processors there will be a sticker.  If the software version is lower than 4.02 or the sticker is white in color, then you need to order the DA81-01421A kit and replace both the control board and the ice maker.  If the software version is 4.02 or higher, or the sticker is red in color, then you have a newer version main control board and it does not need to be replaced when replacing the ice maker.

Software Sticker

Where Can I Buy A Replace Ice Maker & Control Board Kit

You can buy a replacement GE or Samsung ice makers from our online store.  Please click the link below.  Parts Dr always has the lowest prices for new O.E.M. replacement parts.

Ice Maker & Control Board Kit – DA81-01421A

Ice Maker – DA97-05422A (Same Ice Maker as included in the above kit, but without main control board)

Questions Or Comments?
If have any questions or comments please post them in the comments section below.

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