Appliance Repair Blog

New Look, Same Parts Dr!

Posted on July 15, 2014

Parts Dr is proud to announce the launch of our new website! Don’t worry, we are have not changed our ownership and we still have the lowest prices for OEM appliance parts with the best customer service. Our new website offers many new features to our customers to make it easier to order appliance parts. Our new website features a responsive design so whether you are using a desktop computer, tablet, or smart phone, you will be able to easily find parts and place orders. If you created an account on our old website, you will need to register and create a new account on our new website. In your account you can edit your billing and shipping information (we do not store your credit card information), change your password, view previous orders, and manage stock notifications.

To search for parts you can simply click one of the three links at the top of the page to search by part number, model number, or by appliance type.  If you do not know which part number is correct, search with your appliances model number to look up the correct part number for your model appliance.

newpartsdr

GE Refrigerator Clicking Noise From Back

Posted on July 14, 2014

Newer style GE refrigerators all use a motherboard on the back side of the refrigerator to control most of the functions on the refrigerator. If you start to hear a constant “clicking” sound every few seconds coming from the back side of the refrigerator, the motherboard might have failed. Pull the refrigerator out while it is still making the noise and listen to where the sound is coming from. You should see a panel on the back of the refrigerator, behind this panel is the control board (make sure not to touch the control board while the refrigerator is plugged in, you may get shocked or electrocuted).

Behind this panel is the control board.
WR55X10942_Install1

If the noise seems to be coming from the control board, then the control board has failed and it will need to be replaced. GE does not sell replacement parts for the control board, so the whole control board must be replaced if there is a problem with the control board. When the control board fails it can cause the refrigerator not to run or cool. It also controls the water dispenser, fan motors, and more. Most of the GE & Hotpoint refrigerators use part number WR55X10942 control board. Some higher end GE model refrigerators with variable speed compressors use part number WR49X10152 for the control board. Replacing the motherboard is easy, and only takes about 15 minutes. Always be sure to look up the correct control board with the model number from the refrigerator first before ordering.

If you need to purchase a control board for you refrigerator please click the link below to visit our parts store.  We usually have the lowest price on the internet for these control boards.  If you have any questions or comments please post them in the comments section below.

GE Refrigerator Main Control Board – WR55X10942

How To Test Frigidaire Thermistor 134587700

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Newer Frigidaire and Kenmore dryers use a thermistor sensor to control the temperature inside the dryer. A thermistor is a type of resistor that varies it’s resistance with the change in temperature. When the thermistor fails, it can cause the dryer to not heat at all, get too hot, or sometimes it will throw an E24, E25, or F02 error code (open or shorted thermistor) on some models.

Here is how to check/test the Frigidaire 134587700 thermistor:

  • Before working on your clothes dryer, make sure it is unplugged.
  • First remove the thermistor sensor from the dryer. The thermistor is located on the blower housing next to the blower wheel.
  • With the thermistor removed from the dryer, you will need to use an ohm meter or multi-meter to measure the resistance of the thermistor.
  • Place one of each of the probes from the meter on each terminal of thermistor. With the thermistor at room temperature, the thermistor should read approximately 50-53k ohms. If the thermistor is off by more than 10% then the sensor will need to be replaced.

Here is a reading from a bad sensor (0.05k ohms):

134587700_bad

If you have a bad thermistor sensor and need to purchase a new one, please click the link below:

Dryer Thermistor Control – 134587700

How To Replace 34001320 Neptune Drain Pump

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Replacing the 34001320 drain pump on your Maytag Neptune washer is easy to do. This pump is found on many newer Maytag Neptune washing machines. When this pump goes bad or jams up (something gets stuck in the impeller), the washer will display an “ND” (No Drain) error code. Here is on how replace the drain pump:

The drain pump is located in the back of the washer.

First unplug the washer.

Then remove the two screws holding on the back panel.

MAH6700AWWpump

Slide the panel up, and then pull out to remove the panel.

You should now see the pump on the left hand side. Remove the electrical connector (left red arrow).

Before removing the hose clamps, have a wet shop vac ready to suck up the water. I usually try to suck all of the water through the drain hose by putting the hose from the vacuum on the end of the drain hose and sealing the gap with my hand. If that doesn’t work then slowly remove one of the drain hoses and try to suck up all of the water before removing the hose all of the way.

Once all of the water is drained out then removed both hose clamps (middle and right red arrow). You’ll notice the clamps in the picture look different than the clamps that come with the washer. The clamps that come from the factory are weak and often leak, I would recommend upgrading these to worm gear style clamps while you have this apart.

Next remove the three 1/2 inch bolts holding the pump to the base of the washer (3 orange arrows).

With the pump removed look for anything stuck in the pump, and look to see that the three blades on the impeller look good. If the pump is bad, replace the pump.

34001320replacement

Reassemble in the reverse order.

If you have a bad drain pump and need to purchase a new one, please click the link below:

Drain Pump Assembly – 34001320

If part number 34001320 is not available, you can use part number DC96-00774A in its place.

Drain Pump Assembly - DC96-00774A

How To Replace Frigidaire 316075104 Bake Element

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Replacing the bake heating element on your Frigidaire built range is very easy.  In most cases, it should only take about 10 minutes.  The most common element used in Frigidaire ovens is part number 316075104.  This is the newest version of this element, some of the older part numbers for this element were 316075103 and 316075102, but they have been replaced with the newer 316075104 part number.

Note – This element is made by Frigidaire, but it may also found in these other brands:  Admiral, Crosley, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Montgomery Wards, Tappan, White Westinghouse

Here is how to replace the 316075104 in your range:

First, before working on the stove, make sure it is unplugged.

Next, open the door and remove both of the oven racks.

Now remove the two 1/4″ hex head mounting screws on the back oven wall using a 1/4″ nut driver or socket.
316075104installation

Here is a closeup of the 1/4″ mounting screw.
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Now carefully pull the element out of the back of the range.  Make sure the wires do not catch on anything and become disconnected.  There is not much extra wire, only about 1-2″.
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With the element pulled out, carefully disconnect the spade terminals from the element.
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Reinstall the new heating element in the reverse order.

If your heating element is burned out and you need to order a new one, click the link below:

Frigidaire Bake Heating Element – 316075104

Whirlpool Duet Washer F30 Error Code

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Whirlpool Duet front loading washers use a motor on top of the dispenser assembly to switch the water in the dispenser between washing out the soap, bleach, and fabric softener compartments of the dispenser.  When the washer first starts, it tests to see if the dispenser is working correctly.  If it senses a problem, it won’t start the wash cycle and it will eventually come up with an F30 error code.  The F-30 error code means that there is a “dispenser system error”.

There are a few things that can cause the F30 error code to occur.  Here is what you will need to check:

  • First unplug the washer and remove the 3 mounting screws securing the top panel on the back side of the washer.  Slide the top panel backwards to remove.
  • Check the linkage going from the dispenser motor to the dispenser.  Make sure that the are no obstructions.
  • Check the wiring and electrical connections going from the dispenser motor and the main control board (CCU).
  • If the dispenser motor is turning but making clicking noises or continually turns, then the dispenser motor has probably failed and will need to be replaced.
  • If everything else checks out okay, then the central control unit (CCU) will need to be replaced.

Here is how to replace the W10352973 dispenser/detergent motor:

  • First unplug the washer before working on it
  • Now remove the top panel by removing the three T-20 torx screws and sliding the top panel towards the back of the washer to release it
  • Next remove the wire connectors to the dispenser motor.  Lift the locking tabs and pull them out to remove.  (Note:  when re-installing, the connector with the blue stripe on it goes on the top)
  • Remove the cam actuator from the motor shaft by gently prying up on it to unsnap it from the motor shaft.
  • Remove the mounting screw(s)
  • Re-install in the reverse order

W10352973

If you have a bad detergent dispenser motor and need to order a new one for your washer, please click the link below.  Please note the part number listed below is the common dispenser motor found on Whirlpool Duet models, the smaller Duet Sport models commonly use part number W10143586.  Please search by your model number or contact us with your model number so we can verify you are ordering the correct part number.

How To Install W10248240 Load Sensing Switch

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Some newer top load washing machines built by Whirlpool (also found under the Maytag and Kenmore brand names) use a load sensing switch to control the water level inside the washer.  On older washers this part was called a pressure switch.  This sensor switch is located in the top console of the washer, and is usually labeled as the water temperature control (A.T.C. control).  This switch senses the load inside the washer, and automatically adjusts the water level in the tub to the proper level.

Common symptoms that this part has when it fails are: filling with water at the very end of the cycle and agitating while filling with water.  Whirlpool has not released information on how to test this part out, so you will have to narrow down your problem with a process of elimination.  Other parts that can cause similar symptoms to a bad load sense switch are a bad timer, water inlet valve, and a clogged or kinked pressure hose (blowing through this is a good way to make sure it is clear).

If you are having repeated failures of this part, please check to make sure that the drain hose of the washing machine is at least 42″ from the floor and that it is draining into an open stand pipe or laundry tub.  If the drain hose is too low or the pipe/tub that the washing is draining into is not draining at a quick enough rate it can cause the water in the washer to be siphoned out which can damage the sensor switch and cause it to fail.

Here is how to replace the W10248240 Load Sensing Switch
First unplug the washing machine before working on it.

The sensor switch is labeled as the water temperature switch.  Remove this knob.
W10248240_Install1

Next, you will need to access the top console.  This is done by using a putty knife to depress the two clips on the left & right hand sides.  Some models may use two Phillips screws on the back side of the washer to secure the console.  The console will then rotate back and out of the way.
W10248240_Install2

Here is the console flipped out of the way
W10248240_Install3

With the console flipped back and out of the way you will now have access to the sensor switch.  Remove the pressure hose and the two wire connectors going to the switch.  Then to remove the switch from the console you will need to lift up on the tab on the right hand side, and then rotate the switch 1/4 turn counter-clockwise to remove.

W10248240_Install4

Re-install in the new part in the reverse order.

If you have a bad sensor switch and need to purchase a new one, please click one of the links below.  There are two different sensor switches and you can either check to see if your model number is listed below or you can get the part number from the back of the old part to make sure you are ordering the correct part number.

Temperature Sensor Switch – W10248240
Compatible model numbers: 110.29822801, 110.29832801, 1CWTW57ESVW1, MVWC5ESXW0, MVWC6ESWW1, MVWC7ESWW0, WTW57ESVH1, WTW57ESVW1, WTW58ESVW1

Pressure Sensor Switch – W10292584
Compatible model numbers: 110.29822800, 110.29832800, 1CWTW57ESVW0, MVWC6ESWW0, WTW57ESVH0, WTW57ESVW0, WTW58ESVW0

GE WR30X10097 Ice Maker – Service & Replacement Info

Posted on July 11, 2014

One of the most common questions I get asked by customers is about the GE WR30X10097 ice maker found in GE french door refrigerators.  This ice maker will commonly start to make a clicking noise when it fails, and it won’t produce ice properly or won’t make any ice at all.  When something fails on this ice maker, the whole ice maker must be replaced as an assembly; there are no replacement parts sold separately for these ice makers.

How To Replace The Ice Maker

What’s the difference between the Samsung DA97-05422A (Aka IMC701) & GE WR30X10097?

GE Service Bulletin (Model made before 3/1/2008)

I Replaced My Ice Maker And It Still Doesn’t Work

Where Can I Buy A Replacement Ice Maker?

Have More Questions?

How To Replace The WR30X10097 Ice Maker

First unplug your refrigerator, and remove the ice bin container. Remove the Phillips screw on the left side, this will allow you to remove the plastic panel that covers the wiring harness going to the ice maker. Unplug the wire connector going to the ice maker, and then push down on the locking tab on the top of the ice maker while pulling it towards you to remove it. The ice maker should now be free, and you can re-install the new ice maker in the reverse order.

WR30X10097

What’s the difference between the Samsung DA97-05422A (Aka IMC701) & GE WR30X10097 Ice Makers?

If you have already removed your old ice maker, you may have noticed that on the bottom of the ice maker there is a sticker that says Samsung on the bottom of it. Even though the refrigerator is a GE refrigerator, the ice maker was built by Samsung for GE (along with some other components on the refrigerator). The sticker usually says “Model: IMC701″, lists the manufacture date, and lists the DA97-05422A part number in the bottom right corner. You can buy the replacement ice maker from GE, the part number for the replacement ice maker sold by GE is WR30X10097. You can save yourself a lot of money if you buy the same ice maker sold by Samsung. The DA97-05422A is the Samsung part number for the same ice maker.

IMC701Sticker

GE Service Bulletin (Model made before 3/1/2008)

Some GE refrigerator models manufactured before March of 2008 require the ice maker and the main control board to be replaced to prevent further issues. The control board (part number WR55X10763) is replaced with a version that includes a newer software version. These ice makers can have symptoms of ice jamming between the ice maker and the liner, clicking & grinding noises, and low or no ice production. This service bulletin only affects certain model and serial number refrigerators, please make sure yours is part of this service bulletin before ordering the control board.

To access the main control board, you will need to unplug the refrigerator and pull out the refrigerator so you have access to the back side. Remove the screws to the control board cover, and you will have access to look at the tag on the control board to see what software version you have. The control board will need to be replaced if the software version is lower than 4.02. See the service sheet below for more information.

Models Affected: PFSS6 & PFSF6
Manufacture Date: July 2007 – Feb 2008
Serial Numbers: MM070000 – DR079999

WR30X10097 Service Sheet

I Replaced My Ice Maker And It Still Doesn’t Work

There are multiple things that can cause your ice maker not to work. First check to see if you have water flowing to the refrigerator. Check in your owners manual & installation instructions that came with the refrigerator, it should state how much water pressure should be at the refrigerator. Low water pressure can make small ice cubes which can cause ice maker failures. If you have a water filter system in your house, then make sure you bypass the water filter inside the refrigerator. Doubling up on filters only lowers the water pressure further. If you haven’t replaced your water filter in the last 6-12 months, then replacing the water filter can help improve water flow. Most GE refrigerator models use the MWF water filter. The other components that work with the ice maker to make ice are the water inlet valve, and the main control board on the refrigerator. The temperature in the ice maker compartment must be less than 10°F to work properly. To check the temperature you should put an accurate thermometer in the ice bin for a few hours to see if it is cooling down to the proper temperature.

On the side of the ice maker is a test switch. Firmly press this button for a few seconds and the ice maker should go through a harvest cycle by dumping out the ice in the ice maker and filling up with water again.

WR30X10097TestBtn

Where Can I Buy A Replacement Ice Maker?

You can buy a replacement ice maker from our website, please click the link below. Parts Dr always has the lowest prices for new O.E.M. replacement parts.

Samsung Ice Maker – DA97-05422A (IMC701)

Questions or Comments?

Have Any Questions?  Please post them in the comments section below and one of our experts will answer your question as soon as possible.

How To Replace Whirlpool 279838 Heating Element

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One of the most common repairs done to dryers is replacing the heating element.  This is an easy task that most any DIYer can tackle themselves.  The most common heating element found on Whirlpool dryers is part number 279838, this element is sometimes called the “shorty” because of its small size compared to its larger predecessor used on older Whirlpool dryers part number 4391960.

How To Replace The 279838 Heating Element

How To Test The 279838 Heating Element

My Dryer Still Doesn’t Heat After Replacing The Element

Where Can I Buy A Genuine Whirlpool 279838 Heating Element?

How to replace the 279838 heating element:

First before working on the dryer, you will need to unplug and remove the exhaust vent from the dryer.

Next, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer. Remove the nine 1/4″ screws and then tilt the panel back and lift up to remove.

279838_Replacement1

Now remove the wires going to the heating element and high limit thermostat.  Some dryers may have up to five wires, so make sure to note the place and position of each wire.  The high limit thermostat is the part attached to the left side of the heating element.  Newer dryers will use a push on style high limit thermostat part number 3977767, and older dryers use a thermostat that is attached with one or two 1/4″ screws part number 3390291.

279838_Replacement3

Remove the two 1/4″ mountings screws on the left and right sides.

279838_Replacement4

With the two mounting screws removed, pull back on the bottom of the element, and then slide it down to remove it from the dryer.

279838_Replacement5

Remove the high limit thermostat from the old heating element and transfer it over to the new heating element.  You will have to pry up on it if you have a newer style thermostat, or you will have to remove the mounting screw(s) if you have an older style thermostat.

279838_Replacement6

Re-install everything in the reverse order. Make sure to check your dryer vent and blower housing (where the lint filter slides into) for any vent restrictions. This is the number one thing that causes heating elements to burn out prematurely.

My Dryer Still Doesn’t Heat

Multiple things on a dryer can cause dryers not to heat. The heating element is just one of many things that can cause your dryer not to heat. The second most common thing that causes these dryers not to heat is a bad thermal fuse. There are two thermal fuses, one is right next to the blower fan and one is on the heater box. The common blower thermal fuse is part number 3392519 and when that goes bad you should also replace the operating thermostat (Usually part number 3387134 or 694674). Whirlpool sells the high limit thermal fuse and thermostat on the heater box as a kit. Newer dryers use part number 279816 and older dryers use part number 279769. If you have a bad thermal fuse, then your dryer got too hot. Check your dryer and venting for any restrictions. Also make sure your heating element is not shorted to ground (this causes the heating element to stay on all the time).

Electric dryers also require 220-240 volts to work properly, if you only have 120v going to the dryer it is possible for it to run but not heat. The timer, motor, and bad wiring can also cause heating problems on dryers. All parts are specific to your model dryer, so please contact us before ordering parts.

How To Test The 279838 Heating Element

To test your heating element you will need to first remove the heating element from the dryer (follow the above instructions to remove the element). With the element removed from the dryer, do a visual inspection of the element. Often times you will be able to see a break in the heating coil. Sometimes it even helps to grab each section of the coil and wiggle it to make sure there isn’t a break in it. If you can’t see a break in the coil, then you will need an Ohm meter or Multi-Meter to test the heating element. Place one probe on each terminal of the heating element, you should get a reading of approximately 9-10 ohms on a good element. If you get no resistance, then the element is bad and will need to be replaced.

Where Can I Buy a Genuine Whirlpool 279838 Heating Element?

Parts Dr sells new genuine OEM Whirlpool replacement heating elements. You will often find knockoff heating elements sold for less money. These elements are lower quality, and don’t hold up as well in the long run. Visit the link below to visit our store to purchase a genuine Whirlpool 279838 heating element.

Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element  - 279838

279838

W10503278 Control Board – Service & Replacement Info

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The W10503278 control board is found on some Whirlpool built refrigerators with the freezer on the bottom. It can be found in Admiral, Amana, Jenn Air, Kenmore, Kitchen Aid, Maytag, and Whirlpool brand refrigerators. This control board controls most of the main functions on the refrigerator. It takes the place of a defrost timer and controls the automatic defrost cycle. It also controls the compressor, refrigerator & freezer temperatures, and the evaporator and condenser fan motors.

How To Replace The W10503278 Control Board

First, unplug the refrigerator before working on it.

Then remove the light cover by sliding it towards the back of the refrigerator.

12868513_install2

Next depress the two tabs through the two slots on the back side of the light housing with a flat head screw driver.  This will allow the control board housing to flip down.  Then remove the two wire connectors to the control board.

12868513_install3

Now depress the two tabs that lock in the two separate sections of the control board.  Remove the old control board, and re-install the new control board.

12868513_install4

The new control board comes as one piece, and you will have to snap the board at the break line to separate the new control board into two pieces before installing.  Once this is done, you can re-install everything in the reverse order.

With the new control panel installed, you will need to follow these instructions to program the control board to work with your refrigerator.

If you need to purchase a new W10503278 control board for your refrigerator, you can click the link below:

Control Board – W10503278

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