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Appliance Repair Blog

How To Test A Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve (The Right Way)

Posted on July 23, 2017

If your dishwasher is not filling with water or filling with water while it is not in use then you should test the water inlet valve.  This free video shows step by step instructions on how to test your dishwashers water inlet valve.  Other videos online show to test the water inlet valve by ohming the solenoid on the valve.  This test is not very conclusive and it doesn’t actually tell you if the valve is working properly.  The testing process shown in the video below is the only conclusive way to test the valve.

If you find that you have a bad water inlet valve you can shop for a new one on our online store by searching with your appliances model number, or entering the part number off of the water valve here: https://partsdr.com/appliance-type/dishwasher-parts/valve-parts/ We sell new OEM appliance parts for Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, Estate, Roper, Frigidaire, Electrolux, Tappan, Westinghouse, Kitchen Aid, Jenn Air, Bosch, LG, Samsung, and more.

Items used to make test cord:

Cord:  https://partsdr.com/part/wx09x70910-power-cord/
Spade terminals: http://amzn.to/2u7aaGt
Crimping tool: http://amzn.to/2uZhQqL
Wire stripper: http://amzn.to/2t2uPGX

Items used to make battery pack:

Battery pack: http://amzn.to/2twY7Rj
AA Batteries: http://amzn.to/2tEeBFY
Spade terminals: http://amzn.to/2u7aaGt
Crimping tool: http://amzn.to/2uZhQqL
Wire stripper: http://amzn.to/2t2uPGX

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Video Transcript:

Hi, this is Ryan with Parts Dr and today I am going to show you how to test the water inlet valve on your dishwasher to see if it is good or bad.   Other videos online show to test the valve by measuring the resistance of the solenoids on the valve.  This test is not very conclusive and doesn’t actually tell you if the valve is working properly.  The testing process I am going to show you is the only conclusive way to determine if the water valve is working properly.
Water valves can fail in a variety of ways.  They can start to leak which can cause water to fill up inside the dishwasher when it is not in use.  They can also cause the dishwasher to not fill with enough water or not fill with water at all.

The first thing you will need to do is unplug or turn off the power to the dishwasher.  Next you will need to gain access to the water valve and look for a sticker or stamping in the metal on the side of the valve.  What we will first need to know is if the water valve is powered by AC or DC voltage and what the voltage rating is.  You should should see a sticker or stamping in the metal with information like this on the side of the valve.  To test the valve we are going to need to apply power to the valve to manually actuate the valve to see if it is working properly.

If your dishwasher has a AC voltage water valve, it is most likely powered by 110-120v AC power which is the standard power that comes from the power outlet in your house.  We are going to first need to make a test cord to apply power to the water valve.  To make a test cord you are going to need a power cord, two crimp on insulated terminals, and a crimping tool.  I will include links to the items we used to make the test cord in the description below.

If the wires are your test cord are not already exposed you will need to strip the insulation from them so they look like this.  On the power cord we are using here, the green is the ground wire and the white and black are the two power wires.  If the power cord you are using is not color coded, you will need to test each wire with a multimeter for continuity to see which wire is ground, hot, and neutral.  The green is the ground wire, the white is the neutral, and the black is the hot wire.  We will not be using the ground wire on the test cord, so we are going to cut that off.  Now we are going to crimp on an insulated 1/4” female spade terminal onto each of the white and black wires.  And now the test cord is done and ready to use.

If your dishwasher has a DC voltage water valve, it is most likely power by 12-14V DC power.  We are going to use a 12V battery pack that uses 8 AA batteries for our power supply.  This battery pack works nicely because it has wires coming out of it that we can crimp out spade terminals to and it also has an on/off switch that we can use to switch the power on and off.  You can also use any 12V DC battery that you can attach wires to.  To get the battery pack ready we are just going to need to crimp on a female spade terminal onto each of the two wires.  I will include links to the items we used for our battery back in the description below.

Next we need to inspect the valve to see what style wire terminals it has.  There are two common styles of terminals we see on most water inlet valves.  Most either have two 1/4” male spade terminals, or two smaller pins that stick out of the valve.  If your valve has the 1/4” spade terminals, we will be able to directly connect our test cord or battery pack directly to the valve.

If the valve has two pins, we will need to cut the wiring harness a few inches away from the valve.  Next we will strip all four wires using a wire stripper.  On one side of the harness we will crimp on two male spade terminals.  And on the other side of the harness we will crimp on two female spade terminals.  This will allow us to connect our power source to the water valve and reconnect the harness back together when we are done.

To test the valve you will need to make sure the water is turned on to the dishwasher and the water supply to the dishwasher is flowing at a good rate.  Let the valve sit for little while and make sure no water leaks from the outlet of the valve.  If the water valve leaks when there is no power supplied to the valve then it is bad and should be replaced.

Next connect the battery pack or test cord to the water valve.  It does not matter which wire goes to which terminal.  Now turn on your power supply or plug in your test cord.  If the water valve is good, the water should flow out of the valve at a steady rate.  If no water comes out of the valve or the water flow seems restricted or slow then you should replace the valve.  The water flow rate should be about that same as the water supply line to the dishwasher.  You can also check your dishwashers owners manual or installation instructions for the manufactures recommended water supply specifications for the psi and flow rate.  Do not apply power to the water valve for more than 1 minute at a time before letting it cool down for a few minutes as it can damage the valve.

If the flow rate on your water valve is slow, it can be caused by sediment that has built up on the screen of the valve or inside the valve.  On most water inlet valves the screen is not removable.  Do not try to disassemble the water valve to try to clean it.  We often see people try to do this and it will almost always result in leaking afterwards which can flood and damage your house.  For the cost of replacing the water inlet valve it is not worth damaging your house.

If you find that you have a bad water inlet valve and you need to purchase a new one, you can purchase one from our online store by clicking the link in the description below.  Please be careful when shopping water inlet valves as many stores sell lower quality aftermarket water valves.  You can be assured when you purchase from Parts Dr that you will receive a new OEM water valve.

Please subscribe to our youtube channel for more appliance repair videos, and if you found this video helpful please click the thumbs up button below.  You can also stay up to date by liking us on our Facebook page, and following us on Twitter.

How to test Whirlpool Thermistor Part # WP8577274

Posted on July 21, 2017

Whirlpool thermistor part number WP8577274 is used on many Whirlpool model dryers including some Maytag , Amana, Kenmore, Crosley and Inglis model dryers. When this thermistor fails it can cause your dryer to stop running or not heat correctly and display a F-22, F-23, E1, or E2 error code. If you are receiving either any these error codes you should test the thermistor.

Click the link below to purchase this part from our online store:

Whirlpool OEM part number: WP8577274 (PD00002401)

Tools required:
Multimeter or Ohm meter

This thermistor replaces these parts numbers:
3390292, 3406294, 3976615, 772546, 8577274, 1181075, AP6013514, PS11746740, EAP11746740

Resistance Chart:

Thermistor Resistance Chart

Video Transcript:

Hi this is Ryan with Parts Dr, and today I am going to show you how to test the thermistor on your dryer to see if it is good or bad.  This thermistor is a temperature sensor that measures the exhaust air temperature inside the dryer for the control board so it can maintain the desired temperature inside the dryer.

When the thermistor fails it can cause the dryer to display a F-22, F-23, E1, or E2 error code.   The dryer can display one of these error codes if the thermistor is shorted or open.

To test your thermistor you will first need to unplug the dryer, disconnect the wires to the thermistor, and remove the thermistor from the dryer.  Using a multi meter you will need to do an ohm test to check the resistance of the thermistor.  It is important to note that you can NOT do a continuity test on a thermistor.  Thermistors have a high ohm value that won’t register on a continuity test on most multimeters.  If you have an auto ranging multimeter, then turn the meter to the ohm setting.  If you have a manual ranging multi meter you will need to set the meter to the 20K or 40K setting.

Place one of each of the meters probes on each of the thermistors wire terminals.  A good thermistor should have an ohm reading around 11K Ohms at room temperature.  If your ohm reading is far higher or lower than this then you should replace the thermistor.  The resistance value of the thermistor varies depending on the temperature of the dryer, here is a chart that shows the different resistance values at different temperatures.

If you find that you have a bad thermistor and you need to purchase a new one, you can purchase one from our online store by clicking the link in the description below.  Please subscribe to our youtube channel for more appliance repair videos, and if you found this video helpful please click the thumbs up button below.  You can also stay up to date by liking us on our Facebook page, and following us on Twitter.

WPW10310240 Programming Instructions

After installing the new control board part number WPW10310240 the display will flash PE0000.  This means the refrigerator is in programming mode and you will need to enter the program code from the model and serial number tag on the refrigerator.  Please follow the instructions below to program the new control board.  We have come across two different programming versions for this control board depending on the model refrigerator.  Please make sure to look at both versions to see which one applies to your refrigerator.  Also, on some model refrigerators the door(s) may need to be opened to program.

Programming Mode (Version 1):

NOTE: The Program Code is located on the Serial Plate on this unit after the word Code.

1. Press and hold the Door Alarm Keypad DoorAlarm.
2. Press and hold Freezer Temperature Down Keypad.
3. Release the Door Alarm Keypad DoorAlarm and wait 3 seconds.
4. The control will display PE to indicate the programming mode.
5. Entry is confirmed by pressing the Freezer Temperature Down Keypad once more.
6. The control will display the current Program CODE. This value should be validated with the Program CODE printed on the unit serial plate.

NOTE: If the Program CODE is correct, the Programming Mode is exited by pressing Door Alarm Keypad for 3 seconds.

7. Press the Refrigerator Temperature Up Keypad or Refrigerator Down Keypad to change the digit value with each key press.
8. The decimal point indicates the selected digit. Press the Freezer Temperature Up Keypad to select the next digit.
9. Once the desired Program CODE is entered, press and hold the Freezer Temperature Down Keypad until the Program CODE begins flashing indicating it has been saved.

NOTE: If you attempt to enter an invalid Program CODE the control will not save the new code, but will beep. (The unit will NOT run with a Program CODE of 0000). Once the Program CODE has been saved the Programming Mode is exited by pressing any key. If the new code is incorrect this process should be repeated. The Programming mode can be exited at any time by pressing Door Alarm key for 3 seconds or will exit if unattended for four minutes.

Programming Mode (Version 2):
NOTE: The Program Code is located on the Serial Plate on this unit after the word Code.
1. Press and hold the WATER Keypad.
2. Press and hold LL Keypad.
3. Release the WATER Keypad and wait 3 seconds.
4. The control will display PE to indicate the programming mode.
5. Entry is confirmed by pressing the LL Keypad once more.
6. The control will display the current Program CODE. This value should be validated with the Program
CODE printed on the unit serial plate.

NOTE: If the Program CODE is correct, the Programming Mode is exited by pressing water
Keypad for 3 seconds.

7. Press the UR Keypad or LR Keypad to change the digit value with each key press.
8. The decimal point indicates the selected digit. Press the UL Keypad to select the next digit.
9. Once the desired Program CODE is entered, press and hold the LL Keypad until the Program CODE
begins flashing indicating it has been saved.

NOTE: If you attempt to enter an invalid Program CODE the control will not save the new code, but will
beep. (The unit will NOT run with a Program CODE of 0000).Once the Program CODE has been saved
the Programming Mode is exited by pressing any key or by opening or closing the refrigerator door. If
the new code is incorrect this process should be repeated.
The Programming mode can be exited at any time by pressing WATER key for 3 seconds or will exit if
unattended for four minutes.

If you need to purchase a new control board please click the link below to purchase this part from our website:

High Voltage Control Board – Part # PD00003682 Mfg # WPW10310240

Who Made My Sears Kenmore Appliance

Kenmore is a popular appliance brand sold by Sears.  Sears does not manufacture any of the appliances themselves, instead they source that out and have other manufacturers make their appliances for them.  You can easily decode the model number of the appliance to tell you who made your Kenmore appliance.

The first three digits in a Kenmore model can will tell you who manufactured the appliance for Sears.  For example model number 110.45862400, the first three digits are 110 so that would tell you that Whirlpool manufactured the appliance.  Some of the more common appliance manufacturers Sears uses is Whirlpool, Frigidaire, LG, and GE. If you are looking for parts for your Kenmore appliance your can search for the model number in the search box at the top of the page.

Prefix Manufacturer Prefix Manufacturer
103 Roper 629 Jenn Air
106 Whirlpool 647 Roper
110 Whirlpool 651 Speed Queen
119 Frigidaire 664 Whirlpool
143 SFS Corp. (Sanyo/Fisher) 665 Whirlpool
144 Trane 666 KitchenAid
155 Preway 683 Philco
174 Caloric 719 Tappan (Frigidaire)
175 In-Sink-Erator 721 Goldstar (LG Electronics)
198 Whirlpool 747 Litton
233 Broan 757 Marvel, Imperial
253 Gibson (Frigidaire) 789 Defience
274 RCA 790 WCI (Frigidaire)
278 Roper 791 Tappan (Frigidaire)
292 Lennox 795 LG ( Refrigerators )
335 Amana 796 LG (Laundry)
336 Electrolux 835 Roper
342 York 840 Friedrich
362 GE 850 Whirlpool (Chambers)
363 GE 867 Keeprite
401 Samsung 879 Rheem/Ruud
416 Carrier 911 Roper
417 Kelvinator (Frigidaire) 917 Roper (Whirlpool)
464 GE 925 Maycor (Maytag)
473 Hoover 934 Hitachi
484 Fedders, Whirlpool 960 Caloric
562 Toshiba 970 Frigidaire
564 Sanyo C106. Inglis
565 Sanyo C110. Inglis
566 Sanyo C362. Camco
568 Panisonic C363. Camco
575 Sharp C646. Admiral (Inglis)
580 Goldstar (LG Electronics) C675. Woods
586 Panisonic C880. Admiral (Inglis)
587 DM (Frigidaire) C933. Kelvinator (Before 1970)
596 Amana C938. Keeprite
622 Kelvinator (Frigidaire) C970. Kelvinator (1970+)
628 Kelvinator (Frigidaire) C978. Camco

Samsung Top Load Washer Unbalanced During Spin

Posted on March 30, 2016

Some Samsung top loading washing machine models that are experiencing a UE or DC error code or the washing machine is unbalanced during the spin cycle should upgrade the suspension damper rod assemblies to a new improved design.  Each washing machine uses four suspension damper rod assemblies, one for each corner of the washer.  Please use the chart below with the model number and manufacture date to determine if you need the new suspension dampers.

Old suspension damper assemblies are 4.93mm and the new one suspension damper assemblies are 6.50mm

suspension rod new vs old

Model Production Month Old Damper New Damper
WA456DRHDWR/AA All Production Through Jan, 2015 DC97-16350E DC97-05280W (PD00023778)
WA456DRHDSU/AA All Production Through Jan, 2015 DC97-16350E DC97-05280W (PD00023778)
WA400PJHDWR/AA All Production Through Jan, 2015 DC97-16350C DC97-05280W (PD00023778)
WA422PRHDWR/AA All Production Through Jan, 2015 DC97-16350C DC97-05280W (PD00023778)
WA45H7200AW/A2 All Production Through Jan, 2015 DC97-16350E DC97-05280W (PD00023778)
WA45H7200AP/A2 All Production Through Jan, 2015 DC97-16350E DC97-05280W (PD00023778)
WA45H7000AW/A2 All Production Through Jan, 2015 DC97-16350E DC97-05280W (PD00023778)

The model and serial number tag is normally located on the top back console of the washer, and it will list the model number, serial number, and manufacture date. The manufacture date is listed in the format of YYYY.MM (ex: 2012.06). Below is an example model and serial number tag to show where the manufacture date is located.
tag

The serial number can also be decoded using the chart below to determine the manufacture date.
samsung serial decode

If you need to purchase a drain tube kit, please click the link below to purchase this part from our online store:

Damper Rod Assembly – Part # PD00023778 (mfg # DC97-05280W)

Samsung Refrigerator Water Leakage Service Kit

Posted on March 29, 2016

Samsung part number DA82-01415A ( PD00024858) is a refrigerator water leakage service kit.  This kit is used to repair water leaking under the crispers and/or a fan noise that stops when the doors are opened on Samsung bottom freezer and french door refrigerator models with dual evaporators.   When the defrost drain water is not draining properly it causes ice to form at the top of the evaporator, interfering with the fan and causing the drain to freeze and water to overflow, which then runs down and gathers under the crisper drawers.  Before ordering and installing the water leakage service kit you should verify that the defrost heater and defrost sensor are working properly.  Installation of this kit requires moving the evaporator coil, and damage to the evaporator coil can cause catastrophic failure to the sealed system of the refrigerator.  This kit works on all bottom freezer and french door refrigerator models with dual evaporators that have do not have the new style drain tube installed from the factory, see step 9 in the repair instructions below for a photo showing the new and old style drain tube.

DA82-01415A ( PD00024858) Kit Contents:

• 1 new drain tube with cap
• 1 foam seal for the bottom of the drain plate
• 2 foam strips for the back of the evaporator drain plate
• 1 defrost heater clip

Repair Instructions:

1. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the Evaporator Cover.

2. Verify that the defrost heater and defrost sensor resistance is correct. If incorrect, replace the part(s).

3. Move the defrost sensor to the top of the evaporator inlet tube (just below the cap tube joint). If necessary, remove enough mastic material to place the sensor correctly. The sensor must be positioned on the left side of the inlet tube as shown.
DA82-01415A pic 1

4. Check the heater clip on the heater. If clip is shorter than the one in the kit, replace it with the new one. If the clip is the same length as the new one, do not replace it.
DA82-01415A pic 2

5. Lift the evaporator and drain plate out of position and carefully bend them up.

6. Add the two foam strips to the back of the plate and add the seal to the bottom of the drain plate.
DA82-01415A pic 3

7. Bend the bottom row of the cooling ribs on the evaporator.
DA82-01415A pic 4

8. Remove the seal on the back of the Evaporator Cover, if there is one present. The cover should be smooth as shown
DA82-01415A pic 5

9. Replace the drain tube and cap. The refrigerator section tube is on the far right in the compressor compartment.
DA82-01415A pic 6

After installing the new water leakage service kit, you will need to fully thaw the defrost drain on the refrigerator if the drain is iced up.  There are a few different ways to thaw the defrost drain.  The easiest way to thaw the defrost drain is to unplug the refrigerator and leave the refrigerator and/or freezer doors open for 24 hours.  Or while you have the evaporator cover pulled off you can pour hot water in the drain area until all of the ice has melted and water is able to freely flow down the drain to the back of the refrigerator.

If you need to purchase a drain tube kit, please click the link below to purchase this part from our online store:

Water Leakage Service Kit – MFG Part # DA82-01415A  (PD00024858)

 

Samung DA97-15217D Ice Maker Removal Instructions

Posted on May 13, 2015

Listed below are the step by step instructions for removing Samsung ice maker assembly part number DA97-15217A.

1. When pressing the Energy-Saver and the Fridge buttons on the Display together for 8 seconds at the same time, it will convert to the Test Mode and the entire Display function will be off.
DA97-12317A_1

2. When pressing any button within 15 seconds after it is shifted to the Test Mode, its function will change in the following order.  Manual operation1(FF) Manual operation2(0F-r) –> manual defrost of fresh food compartments(rd) –> manual defrost of fresh and freezer compartments(fd) –> cancel(Display all off).  Set unit to Fd for 5 minutes.  This will allow for easy removal of the ice maker.
DA97-12317A_2

3. While pressing the tab on the top right side, lift up the Ice Bucket and pull it out.
DA97-12317A_3

4. Remove the screw from the Wire Housing Cover.
DA97-12317A_4

5. Remove the Wire Housing Cover.
DA97-12317A_5

6. Disconnect the Ice Maker Housing Connector.
DA97-12317A_6

7. Remove the screw from the Duct Tray-ice.
DA97-12317A_7

8. With a flat blade screwdriver, push the duct to the right and remove it from the locking tab.
DA97-12317A_8

9. With a flat blade screwdriver, pry down on the refrigerant tube to separate it from the bottom of the ice maker.
DA97-12317A_9

10.  Push down the refrigerant pipe slightly and separate the refrigerant pipe and the Ice Maker Assembly completely.
DA97-12317A_10

11. While pressing the Hook, pull out the Ice Maker.
DA97-12317A_11

12.  While pushing down the Duct-Tray-Ice, pull out the Ice Maker carefully and remove it.  *When removing the Ice Maker, be careful not to damage the grommets on the tray or the refrigerant tube (refer to the dotted circles in the picture below).
DA97-12317A_12

If you find that you have a bad ice maker, you can purchase one from our online store by clicking the link below.

Ice Maker – Part Number DA97-15217D (PD00037355)

This is maker is found on these model refrigerators:

RF25HMEDBBC, RF25HMEDBSR, RF25HMEDBWW, RF263BEAEBC, RF263BEAESP, RF263BEAESR, RF263BEAEWW, RF263TEAEBC, RF263TEAESP, RF263TEAESR, RF263TEAEWW, RF28HDEDBSR, RF28HDEDTSR, RF28HFEDBBC, RF28HFEDBSR, RF28HFEDBWW, RF28HFEDTBC, RF28HFEDTSR, RF28HFEDTWW, RF28HMEDBBC, RF28HMEDBSR, RF28HMEDBWW, RF28HMELBSR, RF30HBEDBSR, RF30HDEDTSR, RF31FMEDBBC, RF31FMEDBSR, RF31FMEDBWW, RF31FMESBSR, RF323TEDBBC, RF323TEDBSR, RF323TEDBWW, RF32FMQDBSR, RF32FMQDBXW, RF34H9950S4, RF34H9960S4

If you have any questions, comments, or tips that will help others please post them in the comments section below.

W10435302 Bearing Kit Installation Instructions

Posted on March 31, 2015

Some Whirlpool Cabrio, Kenmore Oasis, and Maytag Bravos direct drive top loading model washers have a bearing kit that can be used to replace the tub bearings and seal when they go bad.  When the tub bearings fail the washer can get very noisy during the spin cycle.  Some people describe the sound as sounding like a train or jet after it reaches its high speed during the spin cycle.  If you do not fix the problem with the bearings and keep using the washer you will eventually ruin the tub seal and water will start leaking from the bottom of the washer and water will spray onto the floor and bottom components of the washer.  This water will often look dark and grease colored that starts to leak from the washer at first.  If you find that you have bad tub bearings it is best to replace them sooner than later as it is much easier to replace the components.  If you let the problem go on for too long the bearings can rust into place or come apart while trying to remove them from the washing machine.  When the bearings fail the washer will also no longer spin concentrically which can cause the washer to go out of balance easier and sometimes display an “uL” (unbalanced load) error code).

What is needed for the repair?

If you find that you have bad tub bearings and need to replace them, you will first need to check with the model number from the tag on your washing machine to see if your washer is compatible with bearing kit part number PD00002260 (mfg # W10435302).  We have a list at the bottom of this page with the most common model numbers that this kit is compatible with.  If you do not see your model number listed there, please leave us a comment at the bottom of this page and with your model number and we will let you know if this kit is compatible with your model washer.  This kit does not work with any models that have a belt and gearcase.  This bearing kit includes both upper and lower tub bearings, tub seal, drive shaft, shaft nut, adhesive, grease, spacer tube, and instructions.  The bearings and tub seal in this kit are not sold separately.  The only other thing you will we need to provide are the tools listed below and a person capable of installing the bearing kit.

Tools Needed:

  • 1-1/4″ Wrench/Socket
  • 7/16″ Wrench/Socket
  • 1/4″ Hex Driver
  • Hammer

Special Tools Required:

You can purchase the bearing kit and tool kit from our online store by clicking the links below.

Tub Bearing Shaft & Seal Kit – Part # PD00002260 (mfg # W10435302)

Tub Press Tool Kit – Part # PD00004958 (mfg # W10447783)

Installation Instructions

Below are the manufactures installation instructions for the bearing kit.  We have added our own notes and tips that we have highlighted in orange lettering.

warningshock
1. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
2. Tape lid shut before opening top. Open top. See Figure 1.
Parts Dr Tip: Use a putty knife to depress the two locking tabs (one on the left and right sides) to release and lift up the top.
W10435302 Figure 1
3. Remove hose clamp and hose from tub ring.
4. Remove tub ring.
5. Remove cap from either wash plate or agitator. See Figure 2.
W10435302 Figure 2
6. Remove 7/16” bolt. Lift and remove basket assembly with wash plate/agitator. See Figure 3.
W10435302 Figure 3
7. Slide washer out and tip back on hoses.
8. Using a 1⁄4” Hex Driver, remove rotor bolt and rotor. See Figure 4
W10435302 Figure 4
9. Remove four (4) stator bolts (5/16” or 3/8”). Unclip wire harness and remove stator and shield. Set stator on a clean rag on the floor. See Figure 5.
W10435302 Figure 5
10. Remove Shaft Nut. See Figure 6.
W10435302 Figure 6
11. Remove drive shaft and seal (with hammer). See Figure 7.
W10435302 Figure 7
12. Tip washer forward off the hoses and remove drive shaft and seal from tub. See Figure 8.
W10435302 Figure 8
13. Drive Bottom Bearing, Bottom Bearing Washer, and Spacer Tube out using Removal Rod and hammer. See Figure 9.
W10435302 Figure 9
14. Tip washer back on hoses and drive Top Bearing out using Removal Rod and hammer. Discard all parts. See Figure 10.
W10435302 Figure 10
15. Tip washer forward off of hoses.
16. Clean bearing and seal areas with a rag. Check the weep hole (make sure it is not plugged). See Figure 11.
W10435302 Figure 11
17. Install Top Bearing and press into the tub.
18. Place Tub Press Tool Assembly (without the Bottom Bearing Press, Thrust Bearing, and Bottom Press Nut) over new Top Bearing. NOTE: Ensure LOCKING BAR of Tub Press Tool Assembly is located in sump area. See Figure 12.
W10435302 Figure 12
19. Tip washer back on hoses.
20. Install onto Press Rod; new Spacer Tube, new Bottom Bearing Washer, and new Bottom Bearing. Then install tool parts: Bottom Bearing Press, Thrust Bearing, and Bottom Press Nut. See Figure 13.
W10435302 Figure 13
21. Tighten Bottom Press Nut until bearings bottom out. Then back the Bottom Press Nut off and remove. See Figure 14. NOTE: Final position of bottom bearing will extend from bottom of tub by 1/8” to 3/16” (3 to 5mm).
W10435302 Figure 14
22. Tip washer forward off the hoses and remove the Tub Press Tool Assembly.
23. Install new Drive Shaft (make sure wear sleeve is bottomed out on Top Bearing). See Figure 15. NOTE: If necessary, tap shaft with hammer to install.
W10435302 Figure 15
24. Tip washer back onto hoses. Install new Shaft Nut and tighten. See Figure 16.
W10435302 Figure 16
25. Reconnect wiring harness to stator.
26. Reinstall stator and shield. Check for proper location.
27. Reinstall rotor.
28. Tip washer forward off the hoses.
29. Locate Tub Seal and Grease. Apply grease to both cavities inside Tub Seal lip. See Figure 17.
W10435302 Figure 17
30. Apply the Pliobond Adhesive in a continuous bead around bottom of Tub Seal to enter tub first. Verify grease is inside the seal. See Figure 18.
W10435302 Figure 18
31. Push Tub Seal into place using the Seal Press Tool and hammer until it bottoms out. Add a bead of Pliobond Adhesive to top edge of seal and tub (spread out with finger). See Figure 19.
Parts Dr Tip: The Closed side of seal should face up and the open end of the seal with the spring should face down.
W10435302 Figure 19
32. Reinstall basket.
33. Reinstall tub ring, hose, and hose clamp.
34. Close top.
35. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
36. Verify repair by performing Diagnostic Test.

Compatible Model Numbers:

7MMVWB850WL0, MTW6300TQ1, MTW6500TQ0, MTW6600TB0, MTW6600TQ0, MTW6600TQ1, MTW6700TQ0, MTW6700TQ1, MVWB300WQ0, MVWB300WQ1, MVWB300WQ2, MVWB400VQ0, MVWB450WQ0, MVWB450WQ1, MVWB450WQ2, MVWB455YQ0, MVWB700VQ0, MVWB750WB0, MVWB750WB1, MVWB750YW0, MVWB750WL1, MVWB750WL2, MVWB750WQ0, MVWB750WQ1, MVWB750WQ2, MVWB750WR0, MVWB750WR1, MVWB750WR2, MVWB755YL0, MVWB755YQ0, MVWB755YR0, MVWB800VB0, MVWB800VQ0, MVWB800VU0, MVWB850WB0, MVWB850WB1, MVWB850WL0, MVWB850WL1, MVWB850WL2, MVWB850WQ0, MVWB850WQ1, MVWB850WQ2, MVWB850WR0, MVWB850WR1, MVWB850WR2, WTW6200SW0, WTW6200SW1, WTW6200SW2, WTW6200SW3, WTW6200VW0, WTW6200VW1, WTW6300SB0, WTW6300SB1, WTW6300SG0, WTW6300SG1, WTW6300SW0, WTW6300SW1, WTW6300WW0, WTW6340WW0, WTW6400SW0, WTW6400SW1, WTW6400SW2, WTW6400SW3, WTW6500WW1, WTW6600SB0, WTW6600SB1, WTW6600SB2, WTW6600SB3, WTW6600SG0, WTW6600SG1, WTW6600SG2, WTW6600SG3, WTW6600SW0, WTW6600SW1, WTW6600SW2, WTW6600SW3, WTW6700TU1, WTW6700TU2, WTW6700TW0, WTW6700TW1, WTW6700TW2, WTW6800WB1, WTW6800WL1, WTW6800WW1, WTW7300XW1, WTW7300XW2, WTW7320YW0, WTW7340XW0, WTW7340XW1, WTW7340XW2, WTW7600XW0, WTW7600XW1, WTW7600XW2, WTW7800XB0, WTW7800XB2, WTW7800XL0, WTW7800XL2, WTW7800XL3, WTW7800XW0, WTW7800XW1, WTW7990XG1, WTW8800YC0, WTW8240YW0, WTW7800XW2, WTW7800XW3,110.27087601

If you have any questions, comments, or tips that you think will help others doing this repair please post them in the comments section below.

How To Replace W10404050 Lid Lock & Latch

Some newer washing machines built by Whirlpool use a lid lock and latch to keep the lid from being able to be opened while the washer is in use.  This is a safety feature to keep someone from getting hurt if they were to open the lid while the washer was running.  Sometimes the lid lock can fail and cause the washer not to start.  The most common symptom that the lid lock has when it fails is the washer makes a clicking sound but it won’t start.  The lid lock can also fail if someone has forced the lid open while it was locked.  This lid lock assembly is used on some Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana, and Crosley washing machines.

How To Replace The W10404050 Lid Lock & Latch Assembly

First, unplug the washer before working on it.  Place a piece duct tape to secure the washer lid from opening.

Remove the two top 1/4″ screws from the left and right brackets on the back of the washer.
W10404050replacement_2

Now you will be able to pull the whole top of the washer about 3/8″ forward.  This will release the top from the front locking tabs and allow you to lift the top of the washer up.

Remove the two screws to the lid lock assembly.
W10404050replacement_3

Remove the wire harness from the clip and depress the left and right console mounting clips by squeezing them from the underside.
W10404050replacement_4

This will allow you to rotate the console backwards.
W10404050replacement_5

Squeeze the two tabs to remove the wire harness from where it goes through the frame of the washer.
W10404050replacement_6

Depress the two tabs on the wire connector to pull it out from the control board.  Remove the wire harness from the mounting clip.
W10404050replacement_7

The lid lock & latch assembly is now free.  Take the old one out, and replace the new one in the reverse order.  Don’t forget to replace the included trim bezel at the same time.
W10404050replacement_1

Where Can I Buy A Replacement Lid Lock?

You can buy a replacement lid lock assembly from our website.  Please click the link below.  Parts Dr always has the lowest prices for new O.E.M. replacement parts.

Lid Lock & Latch Assembly – Part # W10404050

Parts Dr

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