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Appliance Repair Blog

How To Install GE WR55X10942 Main Control Board

Installing and replacing the WR55X10942 GE Refrigerator Main control board is an easy task and normally only takes about 15 minutes.  The main control board is located on the back side of the refrigerator behind a cover panel.  This circuit board controls almost all of the functions on the refrigerator.

This is how to replace the control board:

First unplug the refrigerator.

Next remove the screws securing the cover on the back side of the refrigerator.

Then remove the two bottom electrical connectors.

Next you will need to remove the control board from the plastic pins that secure the board to the refrigerator.  Push in on the side of the pin (or squeeze it with a needle nose pliers)  while gently pulling out on the control board at the same time.  Most boards have 4 – 6 pins that secure the control board.

Now pull the old control board off to the side and place the new control board in its place.  Make sure all the plastic pins secure the new board into place.  Now you can start transferring the wiring connectors from the old board to the new control board.  Don’t forget to plug in the two bottom connectors that you removed earlier.

Here is the new board all hooked up.

Please note that on some models you may have left over spots where you will not have any connectors to plug into them.  This is normal.  All of the plugs have different amounts of pins, so if you are unsure where a connector goes, you can count the pins to match up where it should go.

Included with your new control board is an instructions sheet.  Please read through this sheet completely and follow any steps that apply to your model.  These changes affect some side by side and some bottom freezer models.

If your model has a wire going into pin 2 on the 9 pin connector, you will need to cut this wire or you refrigerator section will not cool down to the proper temperature.  Check your model/serial number to see if yours is listed on the instruction sheet. (Note:  I have also seen models that were not listed on the sheet that needed to have this wire cut also).

On some bottom freezer models you may also have to cut a green wire.  Please follow the instructions included with the control board to see if your model requires this.

Re-install the back cover panel on the refrigerator, make sure the ground wire from the control board is grounded to one of the screws.

Plug in the refrigerator and test to make sure it is operating properly.

If you need to purchase a control board for you refrigerator please click the link below to visit our parts store.  We usually have the lowest price on the internet for these control boards.  If you have any questions or comments please post them in the comments section below.

GE Refrigerator Main Control Board – WR55X10942P

199 Thoughts on "How To Install GE WR55X10942 Main Control Board"

  1. GUILLERMO MERINO Posted on February 6, 2012

    For several weeks I have been having problems with my side by side general electric refrigerator, model GSS22JFMBCC. The fridge temperature was too warm, above 40 degrees, and the freezer temperature too low, below -15 degrees. I replaced the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat and the 2 temperature sensors and after 3 or 4 days I had the same problem. Then I replaced the main board (WR55X10942). I didn’t cut the wire in pin 2 of J1 connector because the serial number prefix is MA which is not included in the Installation Instructions list. During 5 days the refrigerator was running with 30 degrees in the fridge and -20 in the freezer, but after that the fridge went to 40. When I took out the back wall of the freezer, which had some ice on it, I found that the coils were all covered with ice. Now I don’t know what to do next. Should I cut the wire in pin 2 although my serial number is not in the Installation Instruction?

    • Ryan Posted on February 6, 2012

      No, you do not need to cut this wire. It sounds like the refrigerator is not going through the automatic defrost cycle. There are 4 components that control the defrost cycle on your refrigerator, the main control board, defrost thermistor, defrost thermostat, and defrost heater. After replacing any of these parts, you will need to manually defrost the evaporator coil to get it caught back up.

      • GUILLERMO MERINO Posted on February 6, 2012

        Thank you for your response. What part is the Defrost Thermistor and where can I get it (Side by side GE, model GSS22JFMBCC)

        • Ryan Posted on February 6, 2012

          The part number for the defrost thermistor is part number WR55X10025, it should be located at the top left side of the evaporator coil. You can purchase it at our store, click the link below.

          • GUILLERMO MERINO Posted on February 6, 2012

            This is the same part that I already replaced. In my GE side by side refrigerator (model GSS22JFMBCC) there are two places with this part: one on the Fridge section (top left side) and one on the bottom of the freezer (left side). I replaced both.

          • Ryan Posted on February 6, 2012

            The thermistor for the defrost cycle is located in the freezer section, behind the back panel on the top left side of the evaporator coil. The other sensors you replaced are used as temperature sensors. The defrost thermistor sensor is the most common one to fail since it is subject to temperature variations.

  2. GUILLERMO MERINO Posted on February 7, 2012

    At the top left side of the evaporator coil I replaced the Defrost Thermostat, part WR50X10068. It is installed with a clip on the evaporator coil. Please, let me know if it is the same part that you call defrost thermistor.

    • Ryan Posted on February 7, 2012

      No, the defrost thermostat is a separate part from the thermistor. They are usually pretty close together… usually within a few inches of each other.

      • GUILLERMO MERINO Posted on February 7, 2012

        As I wrote before, I already replaced two sensors using Part WR55X10025. According your last response, there is a third place where I have to replace this same sensor?

        • Ryan Posted on February 7, 2012

          Yes, that is correct.

          • GUILLERMO MERINO Posted on February 9, 2012

            Thank you so much for your help. Finally I found the defrost thermistor and replaced it. I hope that from now the refrigerator is going to work OK. I apreciate very much your fast and knowledgeable responses to all my questions. I strongly recomend your company and your blog to everyone who need to fix a refrigerator.

  3. Ruth Woody Posted on March 17, 2012

    We purchased the main control board – WR55X10942. Problem is that none of the controls on the front of the fridge work, so we have no water, ice or any control over the temp. of the either fridge or freezer. Also our Ice Maker stopped working. Research told us this was due to the main control board. Our board is a bit different – and the instructions here and on our paper work that came with the control board, just don’t match our unit. Our Serial number starts with TF4 – ModelGss25LGPA BB – Purchased 12/2003. A GE Side by Side – it was the top of the line at the time of purchase.

    The problem is that the new board has two additional connectors that we do not have plugs for, not merely plugs located in a different place. Oddly the instruction paper that came with the control board has a diagram exactly like our unit, but it is not the unit depicted above. When we tried to install, just ignoring the extra plugs and plugging in the connectors we had matching up the pins, all we had was electricity to the light. The compressor no longer functioned at all, as well as nothing else worked. Obviously we quickly removed the board and put the old one back in and the compressor came right back up.
    Any suggestions?

    • Ryan Posted on March 17, 2012

      I think you might have more than one issue going on with your refrigerator. The ice maker should operate independently from the rest of the refrigerator. I would recommend checking the water supply to the refrigerator.

      According to your model number, the WR55X10942 control board is the correct part for your model refrigerator. It is normal for the new control board to have extra places for connectors that will not be used. It sounds to me like the control board is either defective, or it was not installed correctly.

      If the front display control board is not working, it can be caused by a bad main control board, bad front display control board, or bad wiring. Check the wiring down underneath the door for any corrosion.

      • Ruth Woody Posted on March 17, 2012

        If you were to open a box containing the part, there is an instruction sheet. Look at the sheet and you will see on the front lower right hand corner an image depicting the board. That “is” our board; however the board sent has two additional connector plugs that we do not have connectors for. We “guessed” by matching pins and plugged our only remaining connector into the 2nd row of three on the board.

        After installing the board (we cut no wires or made any changes to the existing connectors), the compressor stopped working, which tells me something is not connected to the correct place or this is not really the correct board. I also found a post of another person with the same refrigerator as ours trying to do the same thing and his result was the same as ours, nothing works but the lights inside the fridge.

        Our issue is that we have no working front panel controls, no ability to change the temp. on the freezer or fridge or the turbo cool inside the fridge. Those controls lie at the top of the refrigerator door when you open it – they are dark and do not function. Also eventually the ice maker stopped working properly. Now your response to our post, told us that the ice maker is separate and that should not have been affected, only the dispensing of the ice/water. Our sequence of events were: first we could not dispense water – next it stopped being able to change from crushed to cubes – next nothing worked on the front,but we still had ice in the bucket. Eventually the ice maker started freezing up where only big blocks of ice were melded together, so my husband, in fear of more damage occurring turned the ice maker off.

        Following your suggestions, we pulled the fridge out – checked all the water lines – they are good. We also noted that water is reaching the filter, as after turning it back on (he had also turned that off when he turned off the ice maker), the filter filled with water. He turned the ice maker back on at my suggestion. I was thinking that it has been off for a long time and would have had time to de-ice. The green light came on, and the paddles starting moving into position, but we don’t see water filling into the ice maker form the inlet at the back. I’ve asked him to leave it on over night to see if it needs more time to cycle. My thought process (I’m a computer specialist so tech support is what I do for a living..just not refrigerators..LOL), is that due to the inability to control the temperature, the ice maker froze up. By turning it off and letting it not be affected by the temp maybe it would come back into working operation. That is yet to be seen.

        Due to current financial issues (business is very slow for me) I need to find a way to fix this without a repair man if possible. My husband is extremely handy and has extensive plumbing experience. I have computer expertise, so between the two of us, if I can track down the issues, I believe we can get this fixed as the compressor works wonderfully. Thank goodness it was set at a reasonable temp for the freezer and fridge when the controls died. To be honest this has been broken for quite some time, but after I saw your website it spurred me on to investigate fixing this as my husband keeps bugging me to try to buy a new fridge which we can’t afford. This is a beautiful unit. To be honest I don’t see anything any nicer on the market now. It does everything (when it works) We have Water/Ice in the door – filtered water – door alarm and turbo cool… I just can’t see replacing it at the current prices, and I’m told I could get up to over $500 w/ a repair man. Please help!!

        • Ryan Posted on March 17, 2012

          It is normal for the new control board to have extra connections that go unused. I think your refrigerator has multiple problems going on with it. I would recommend checking to see if your model has a wire going to pin 2 on the 9 pin connect as stated in our instructions above. I would also check the wiring going at the bottom of the door for any corrosion as stated in my previous post.

          Your new control board could be defective, or not installed correctly. Or you could have a bad front display control board, bad interior control board, bad wiring, or multiple things that are bad. You might have to hire a professional to take care of this for you.

        • Greg Posted on November 27, 2013

          Hi! Im Greg, I seen that you had some problems with a Fridge on March 2012! I was just wondering how everything turned out for you?

  4. Edwin Oyler Posted on March 17, 2012

    Our 8 year old GE side-by-side finally quit working. So after doing some research online I found that a lot people had the same problem with this type of GE refer. Everything (not getting cold, not being able to set the temp, compressor not running) pointed to the main control board. So I found a main control board on the Parts Dr. site and called them to confirm that I was getting the correct part. The person was very helpful, you can tell when talking to someone if they know what they are talking about or just reading a script from a computer screen. This guy know what he was talking about. So I ordered the main control board and replaced it and everything starting working perfectly! I looks a little intimidating to replace, but it really is easy. The only issue I had was that what looks like the main power wire connectors on the new board must be in a slightly different location on the new board than the original. I had to stretch the wires a little to get them to connect.

    • Ryan Posted on May 18, 2012

      Thank you for the success story!

  5. Jeff Hill Posted on April 3, 2012

    My sise by side GE profile is trouble since i bought it. The warranty ran out. I have had service teck out a few times during warranty. At the moment the fridge will not dispence water, or ice.All the lights on the front work, the door on the ice dispencer opens and closes, I can hear it. I changed the main control board on the back, but still the same. any ideas

    • Ryan Posted on April 3, 2012

      First, I would check for corrosion at the wire connector at the bottom of the door. Did both stop working at the same time?

    • Jennifer Posted on April 21, 2014

      Sounds like water line is frozen within the door. Happens with us often. If you leave the door open for a few hours, it resolves.

  6. michael Posted on May 18, 2012

    Have a side by side model # DSS25PFMDWW S.N. VD234533 Ok most of the time it will not defrost, every week i have to defrost it. sometimes it will go 2-3 weeks. i have seen the heater on once so that works. should i replace the main board or ??

  7. Jeff Duncan Posted on June 15, 2012

    I have a GE side by side, Model GSL25JFTABS that is having cooling issues with the freezer. Will not go below 30 degrees. I have replaced the two thermistors in the freezer section, temp sensor & defrost, first, but saw no change. I just replaced the main control board hoping it would solve my problems, but I’m still seeing no change. Also, I don’t have any ice build up on the evaporator coils, but only the bottom of the coils gets frosty. Any ideas?

    • Ryan Posted on June 15, 2012


      If only part of the evaporator coil is covered in frost, then you have a sealed system or compressor problem. This type of repair must be done by a licensed and trained repair technician, and can be very expensive.

  8. Tom Posted on July 6, 2012

    I have a bottom freezer unit and the instructions say to cut the green wire. The only green wire is the ground wire. Didn’t make sense to cut it, but I tried it anyways and it didnt fix the problem. I’ve repaired the ground wire now but need to know which wire to cut. Has anyone come across this? Thanks!!

    • Ryan Posted on July 9, 2012

      The green wire you cut on the bottom freezer models is on the power cord connector. Your control board should have included an instruction sheet showing which wire to cut.

  9. john Posted on July 17, 2012

    Replaced control board yesterday, on GE model pfs22sisss with bottom freezer. Temp was 85 for both. Today 64 for both. 24 hrs later. Don’t think this is working. Any thoughts? Did not cut green wire near compressor as both were grounding wires and I could not see a capacitor as pictured in instructions.. I installed a wr55x10942 board.

    • Ryan Posted on July 17, 2012

      It sounds like you might have more than just a control board problem. I would check the back panel in the freezer section to see if you have any frost built up on the back panel of the freezer. For more repair help, feel free to start a thread on our repair forum here:

      • john Posted on July 17, 2012

        No frost dry freezer

        • john Posted on July 17, 2012

          I tried going to the repair forum and registering but it said I was denied as a spammer… which I am not.

          • john Posted on July 18, 2012

            Pulled out back panel inside freezer, could see frost on top of condenser, and no where else.

        • Ryan Posted on July 18, 2012

          If only the top of the evaporator coil in the freezer is covered in frost, then you most likely have a sealed system problem. This is a repair that would need to be done by a professional, and it can get pretty expensive. When it is working properly, the evaporator coil should be fully covered in a light layer of frost.

    • Jennifer Posted on April 21, 2014

      I’m not sure why it says green wire, but it’s really a white wire. The instructions that come with the board should have a picture of the correct wire. Don’t cut the ground wire.

  10. Jay Posted on August 9, 2012

    I have a PSC23SHRC from 2005 and it started to click. Called GE and they sent over WR55X10942 and I put it in. I’m not sure it’s the right part however. Everything works but it seems that the fridge is constantly working. There was one set of pins that the new board which the old board did not. I didn’t plug it in even though there was one for it. Any thoughts?

    • Ryan Posted on August 10, 2012

      Yes, that is the correct control board for your model. It is normal to have extra sets of connectors that go unused on the new board. It is possible that you are having a different problem with the refrigerator. Feel free to post on our repair forum for more help

  11. Jessie Posted on September 17, 2012

    How much should it cost to pay a repair company to replace this part? I believe we were over charged and the company said they charged us based on the Appliance Blue Book average cost (which I do not have access to). Thanks!

    • Ryan Posted on September 18, 2012


      Appliance repair prices can vary quite a bit depending on the area. It is common for servicers to use the Blue Book for pricing. It would be comparable to if you went to a car repair shop, and they gave you a price to replace a certain part on your vehicle. You could ask to see the price in the book from the servicer, or call around to other places to see if the price is comparable.

  12. Doug Posted on September 22, 2012

    I purchased a new GE main control board #WR55X10956 for my 7 year old model PCF25PGWA BB from Appliance Parts. It came in a sealed box – no instruction sheet. I contacted AP and they said they checked all the boxes in their stock and none had any instruction sheets. I called the GE support 800# and the person told me that GE does not put instruction sheets in the boxes anymore because of liability and safety. It sounds like they want to make owners purchase GE service for the simple installation of a board.
    Can anyone tell me how I can get the instruction sheet for the board?

    • Ryan Posted on September 22, 2012

      I will have to do some checking on this. So far I have not seen any of our GE control boards NOT include the instruction sheet. But that doesn’t mean that GE hasn’t recently made a change, and is no longer including the instruction sheet.

  13. Ark Posted on November 6, 2012

    Hello, My refregerator as many of us stops freezing and cooling…So after reading info I opened back dor and look at main bord… – nothing burned or anything wrong – so I a bit pushed on board and sparks came from behind this board and fridge start working..Amazing, ah… Do I have bad connection? And where is Start Relay located? Many thanks…

    • Ryan Posted on November 6, 2012

      The start relay is located on the side of the compressor. If you have sparks coming from your main control board then I would unplug the refrigerator and replace the main control board as soon as possible. It might not be safe to continue using the refrigerator with that main control board.

  14. Doug Posted on November 7, 2012

    Continuation of my Sept 22 comment: Even though I did not have an instruction sheet for the main control board, I decided to install the board anyway.
    I connected all of the plugs to the same points. The frig has been running fine since Sept 23. No problems

  15. aRK Posted on November 8, 2012

    cont. from Nov 7 (sparks…)
    I decided to open compartment and remove that board before I ordered one – on the other side of the board I located one tab was burned around and barely touched solder. (manufacturer defect???) So I just solder it – now it is looks like new. Installed it back – works just fine then ever…….and saved $$… Thanks

    • Ryan Posted on November 8, 2012

      If you have a burned spot on one of the solder connections on the control board, the circuit board should be replaced. One of the components on the board is failing that caused that burn spot.

  16. Dwight Posted on November 10, 2012

    I have a GE Monogram Model Zfsb26dnass S/N TD4xxxx and it stopped making ice along with both freezer and refrigerator stopped cooling. I purchased the main board WR55X10942 and had to stretch one of the power connectors, and it has been running for about 3 hours without any change I’m temperature or making any ice. How long until the temperature should stabilize and it starts making ice? Thanks for your help.

    • Ryan Posted on November 10, 2012

      You should give the refrigerator 12-24 hours to catch up, and for the temperature to even out. If you need more repair help, you can ask your questions on our free repair forum.

      • Dwight Posted on November 11, 2012

        Thanks for the reply. It looks both freezer and refrigerator temperature has stabilized but still no ice. Thanks again for your advice.

        • Ryan Posted on November 11, 2012

          Your ice problem could be a separate issue. The ice maker will not make ice until it gets cold enough. It usually has to be below 10 degrees to make ice.

  17. Dwight Posted on November 12, 2012

    Thanks again for the reply. The temp reading on the freezer shows 0 degrees. Is that sufficient to make ice? If the problem continues what would cause that? Thank you

    • Ryan Posted on November 12, 2012

      Yes that is cold enough. You could have a bad ice maker or water supply issue.

  18. Dwight Posted on November 13, 2012

    Thanks. The water portion seems to be working fine, does that mean the hose to the ice maker might be dirty? Thanks

    • Ryan Posted on November 13, 2012

      The water dispenser and ice maker use separate water valves. Please start a new thread on our repair forum for help with this.

  19. C. Williams Posted on November 16, 2012

    Thank you for this website! I googled the problem I was having with my GE refrigerator and found this website. I discovered the problem was with the main control board, I ordered the part which was on sale, received it within 2 days and installed the part. So far my refrigerator is working well and I’m so excited with my savings!

    By the way, I’m inexperience when it comes to home repairs and I’m a female. The photos and instructions were perfect for this 1st time do-it-yourselfer and it took me about 45 minutes 🙂

    • Ryan Posted on November 16, 2012

      Great to hear! Thank you for your business! 🙂

  20. ron Posted on November 22, 2012

    I too am having problems with my ge side by side. fridge side at 50 only bottom of freezer getting cold so i called repair they came out and replaced the main board. 5months later same thing happened so i called and they came out and said it was the same problem only it wasn’t under warranty. Well I ordered the part at parts dr and when i put it in there was no change. it doesn’t appear that the condenser is working. I am going to try to defrost it to see if that can fix it. any suggestions would be helpful. Thank you

    • Ryan Posted on November 22, 2012


      Please start a new thread on our repair forum, and I will be able to better help you with your problems there.

  21. John Grotegut Posted on December 1, 2012

    Hi….i have a GE Profile fridge model pfs22sisbss…side by side fridge and freezer bottom. The display board in the top portion works randomly. Sometimes it’s on….usually not. I recently noticed it works when the compressor is not running…..but is unlit when the compressor is on and in, most of the time.
    I read online that this is probably a motherboard problem, so i purchased one online. part #wrx55x10942.
    According to the instructions, there are two optional installations. One is to cut the 2nd wire on the 9 pin connector if there is one. There isn’t…so on to the next step.
    The other option is to cut a green wire in the capacitor housing in the power cable.
    I see no capacitor or plastic housing or anything for that matter between where the power cable enters the unit and the connector. It says on the instrux – “if the capacitor is not present…skip to step 5”.
    So the question is… appears i don’t have to do any mods to the motherboard or fridge itself during the installation. Is that correct?
    I have not started the r/r on the board yet until i am sure.
    thanks !

    • Ryan Posted on December 1, 2012


      Those features are only present on certain models. If yours doesn’t have those wires, then you can skip those steps.

      • John Grotegut Posted on December 1, 2012

        Thanks Ryan. I’m obviously glad it appears to be so simple. Hope this thing does the job.

  22. Meghan Posted on December 6, 2012

    Hi, Thank you for this website! I need help! The freezer is malfunctioning and large amounts of ice are accumulating on the food in the freezer. My husband replaced this part (WR55X10942) himself. When I asked him about the freezer, he then said the instructions stated something about cutting off a wire but that he didn’t do it. He then told me he threw out the instructions and he refuses to look at the main control board or try to help me. He gets angry every time I talk about the food in the freezer and how food is getting ruined. UGH! I’m at the last straw before I call out a technician but if it’s just a simple wire cut, I would rather do that than pay to have someone make a service call. Would you be able to tell me if any wires need to be cut on GE PFS22MBSBBB? I would appreciate any help you may be able to give me. I asked GE for installation instructions and they won’t give them to me! Thank you very much!

    • Ryan Posted on December 6, 2012

      The wire you cut does not affect frost buildup. It would affect the temperature inside the refrigerator section. Please post on our repair forum if you need more help.

  23. bud Posted on December 8, 2012

    I have been trying to get our GE side by side to defrost. I have ordered what I am told is the correct board wr55x10942 and when I replace the old board the unit gets lights but that is all the compressor will not start. I have cut the J2 jumper wire with no change.
    I plug in the old board the compressor fires up instantly with no issue, except no defrost.
    I sent the first control board back as I felt it may be bad, just put in board 2 tonight with the same results

    I ordered a thermisotor or temp sensor and am about to install it as the unit is defrosting now manually

    • Ryan Posted on December 9, 2012

      Make sure you are leaving the refrigerator plugged in for at least 15 minutes. The new control boards have a delay before they will start the compressor. If you need more repair help you can post your questions on our free repair forum.

      • bud Posted on December 9, 2012

        Ok, I will try the new board one more time, this is the first I have heard of this and it is not mentioned anywhere else. Or when I called and asked about a why the first board and now the second board will not work but it powers up instantly with the old board

        • Ryan Posted on December 9, 2012

          I bet it will work if you wait 🙂

          • bud Posted on December 9, 2012

            Thanks, I will do it again this morning and let you know. If it does a cold one for you is on me

          • bud Posted on December 9, 2012

            Ok, went back and tried it again, this time it fired up instantly. The only difference being the new temp sensor was installed first, could a bad temp sensor have kept it from firing up?

          • Ryan Posted on December 9, 2012

            It’s possible

  24. Michael Posted on December 15, 2012

    I have a GE model PDS22MISBWW. The control board is clicking so I ordered a replacement. The temperature display in the fridge section only works sporadically. If the display doesn’t work I won’t be able to set the temperature. Will the temperature of the fridge and freezer need to be re-set when I put in the new control board? Is there a separate display control board that could be a problem? What else could cause the display to work sporadically? Thanks.

    • Ryan Posted on December 15, 2012

      With the new control board, the temperatures are usually set to the factory settings out of the box. Yes, the user interface control board that has the display is a separate control board. Either control board or a wiring problem could cause your issue.

  25. John Grotegut Posted on December 18, 2012

    I replaced the motherboard on my GE Profile fridge model pfs22sisbss after the readouts in the fridge area stopped working. I never lost the ability to cool or freeze. See my above entry of dec 1, 2012.
    I am happy to say i replaced the board with a new one and after 15 anxious minutes of the compressor not coming on did… and now works perfect !

    The only thing that puzzles me is there is a loud clicking noise that randomly happens. (When the compressor cycles on and off?).
    It was there before i replaced the motherboard and is still there…loud as ever.
    What is this?

    • Ryan Posted on December 18, 2012


      I am glad the control board took care of your display problem. It is normal for you to hear a click noise when the compressor turns on. Anytime one of the relays on the control board is engaged, you will hear a click noise.

      • John Grotegut Posted on December 18, 2012

        Ok….i can live with it…i guess. As long as it continues to operate i will be thankful as this fridge has had more problems than any two appliances ive ever owned.
        Thanks for the always helpful and quick response ryan.

      • John Grotegut Posted on December 18, 2012

        Ryan…it’s been about 4 hours since i replaced that control board and i just checked the temps. The fridge (upper) area is at 34 …where i set it….the freezer section however was at 16 degrees 30 minutes ago…and it’s climbing . Now at 20 degrees. I unplugged it and replugged it hoping to reset it….still getting warmer. Any ideas?

  26. Ryan Posted on December 18, 2012

    I would check to see if you need to cut pin 2 on the 9 pin connector. If you need more repair help, please start a new thread on our repair forum

  27. John Grotegut Posted on December 18, 2012

    Do you mean actually cut the #2 PIN on the new circuit board …or the #2 WIRE on the connector? Because there is no #2 wire in my fridge’s wiring harness for the 9 pin connector.

  28. Jay Baywatch Posted on December 22, 2012

    Hi, I have a GE Profile (model: PD20SFSBLSS) bottom freezer refrigerator.
    The refrigerator was not maintaining a proper temperature and it was clicking (sounded like a car directional). Last night, I replaced the main control board with WR55X10942 replacement board.

    The fridge is now working properly, yay! Unfortunately, the freezer is now not working. The temperature LED inside the fridge reads -49 for the freezer, but everything in there is starting to melt.

    Even though I have a bottom drawer freezer, I did not cut the green wire in the capacitor board as I could not locate anything that resembled the capacitor housing diagram in the instructions. The green wires appear to be grounds…

    The freezer worked fine before I replaced the board, any thoughts on what the issue could be?

    Thank you and Happy Holidays.

    • Ryan Posted on December 26, 2012

      Did you check to see if you needed to cut pin 2 on the 9 pin connector?

  29. Travis Kuemper Posted on January 24, 2013

    I have a ge fridge with freezer on bottom. front display quit working and won’t dispense water either. i replaced the board and checked the wires for corrosion. still nothing working. any suggestions. thank you

    • Ryan Posted on January 24, 2013

      Did you replace the main board or the dispenser board? Either control board or the wiring could cause issues.

      • Travis Kuemper Posted on January 24, 2013

        I did not. where is that located.

        • Ryan Posted on January 24, 2013

          The main control board is on the back of the refrigerator, the dispenser board is located behind the dispenser.

          • Travis Kuemper Posted on January 24, 2013

            What’s the easiest way to get at that. do i need to take the door apart?

  30. Ryan Posted on January 24, 2013

    For further repair help please post on our repair forum

  31. john Posted on January 30, 2013


    • Ryan Posted on January 30, 2013

      If you have a wire going to pin 2 on the 9 pin connector, it will most likely need to be cut.

      • john Posted on January 30, 2013

        ok thanks for the info

  32. Karim Posted on February 11, 2013

    I have a GE Adora refrigerator that is about 6 years old. We noticed that vegetables in the fridge section freeze. This happens whether the vegetables are in the bins or on the shelves above. We adjusted the fridge temp to the second lowest setting (2 out of 5), but that did not help. What is likely the problem?

    • Ryan Posted on February 12, 2013

      There are many things that work together to control the refrigerator temperature. Please post on our repair forum for more help with your problem.

  33. Brian Posted on March 15, 2013

    I have a GE profile side by side model #pss26sgpa ss serial #gf413080. Freezer working fine, refer side too cold and express thaw would not turn off. I replaced the main board wr55x10942 but the refer side will not adjust to the proper temp – stays at 32 degrees causing freezing in the vegetable drawer. What should I check next, or should I just call a repair guy thanks.

    • Ryan Posted on March 15, 2013


      It sounds like you might have a broken damper door in the air damper assembly (part# WR49X10091).

      • Brian Posted on March 16, 2013

        wow I jumped the gun and had someone over to tell me just that. the damper is not closing when the door opens. I was quoted $328 to fix it, paid the $50 service call and sent him on his way. Any tips to the installation, or will the instructions supplied with the part be sufficient

  34. Ryan Posted on March 16, 2013

    See the 2nd post in the link below for instructions. It is not too hard to replace.

  35. Joe Sweeny Posted on March 29, 2013

    I replaced the main control board. Do need to defrost the coil to let it catch up, or will it catch up on its own?

    • Ryan Posted on March 29, 2013

      If it was not previously going through the automatic defrost cycle, then you will need to unplug the refrigerator and manually defrost it to get it caught back up.

      • Joe Sweeny Posted on March 29, 2013

        Once thawed, how long does it usually take to get to the defrost cycle? I want to make sure it is working before I put it all back together and put food in it.

        • Ryan Posted on March 29, 2013

          Between 6 & 12 hours.

          • Joe Sweeny Posted on April 12, 2013

            Back to the drawing board. I replaced the main control board and after about 2 weeks, it is freezing up again. I even witnessed the defrost cycle working (glowing heat coil). Today I heard the fan shut off and it appeared to try to go in to the defrost cycle, but the element did not glow this time. I have purchased a thermostat and a temp sensor, any ideas????

        • Ryan Posted on April 12, 2013

          There are 4 components that can cause the refrigerator not to go through the automatic defrost cycle. The main control board, defrost sensor (thermistor), defrost thermostat, and defrost heater.

  36. Alvaro Martinez Posted on April 3, 2013

    Hi, I’m from Venezuela and I have a GE Profile side by side Refrigerator model n° PSM23SGP. This may be a rare model because I can’t find any info about this model on internet.

    Two days ago the water and ice dispenser on the fridge door stopped working and the digital display numbers on the control panel inside the refrigerator also died. A few hours later the refrigerator stopped working at all. It only turns on the lights when I open the doors.

    A tecnician saw the refrigerator and told me that it was probably the Main control board, but I can’t find the correct part number in order to purchase it.

    Please help me.

    • Ryan Posted on April 3, 2013

      We are not able to look up international models. I would contact GE to see if they can help you.

  37. Alvaro Martinez Posted on April 3, 2013

    Someone told me that the board WR55X10552 (that uses my refrigerator) is replaced by the WR55X10492. Is this true? Are both compatible?

    • Ryan Posted on April 3, 2013

      Yes, WR55X10942 replaces WR55X10552.

  38. Jason Posted on April 27, 2013

    Hello. I wanted to know if I needed to cut the #2 wire (my model has this) in the 9 pin connector plug. I just replaced the control board, and the new one I received came with no instructions. If I don’t have to cut it, I would prefer not to. The model is GSL25JFPHBS and the serial # is VG234829. From the above comments, is seems like it may need to be cut. I have the refrigerator running now. The freezer is working correctly, and the refrigerator side is at 38 degrees with the coldness setting at 5 for both the freezer and refrigerator, which is the recommended setting. This seems like it is working fine at the moment, but not sure what will happen if the #2 wire is left intact. Thanks very much in advance for your response.

    • Ryan Posted on April 29, 2013

      If it is cooling fine without that wire being cut, then you should be fine.

      • Jason Posted on April 29, 2013

        Thanks for your response. Is there a possibility it could suddenly stop cooling correctly if it hasn’t already started doing this, or is this something you would notice immediately?

        Thanks in advance for your response once again. It is much appreciated.

        • Ryan Posted on April 29, 2013

          If it were not going to cool correctly, you would know right away.

  39. Cyrus Posted on May 1, 2013

    We have a GE , Model: PFS22SBSS, Serial No:FL054397 that we bought in 2006 and dies on us in 2003. Two local technicians told us the unit will cost over $700 to repair. We called GE and complained. They sent a technician who told us all that needed to be done was to replace the board. He wanted $400 to do that. We did not accept that. Thru research, we found the control board on amazon and installed it following youtube videos to no avail. Something keeps clicking but the fridge does not coll down. I found the instruction sheet today and decided to cut the green capacitor wire for the bottom freezer but that did not help either. Should we trash this unit?

    • Ryan Posted on May 1, 2013

      Is the clicking noise coming from the control board or the compressor? Did your control board not include an instruction sheet?

      • Cyrus Posted on May 1, 2013

        Thanks for the reply, I am not sure where the clicking comes from. I made a video before disconnecting the terminals. The sheet was there but I had not noticed and had followed youtube since it seemed too simple. The board vender has a 30 day return and has ok’d the return, so I will send it back tomorrow. Unless you suggest a miracle.

      • Cyrus Posted on May 1, 2013

        I checked the video. There was no clicking anymore an hour after running the unit, but nothing was cold at all. The walls were not cold and there was just a slight air flow in both freezer and fridge chambers that was a little cold. The compressor is somewhat war (maybe 120 F) the heat exchanger coils next to it are room temperature.

        • Ryan Posted on May 2, 2013

          It sounds like you might have a bad start relay/overload on the compressor. In order to determine if the control board is working properly, you will have to check to see if voltage is being sent to the start relay/overload on the compressor. For more help with this please post on our repair forum

  40. Kim Posted on May 7, 2013

    HI! If our ge profile fridge display panel doesn’t work and we can’t dispense ice or water, will a main board fix it or the display control board panel? Thanks!

    • Ryan Posted on May 7, 2013

      It can be either of the two control boards or a wiring problem. First check the wiring connection at the bottom of the door and look for any corrosion or broken wires.

      • Kim Posted on May 7, 2013

        Thanks for getting back to me. I had the repair man come to install the main control board but it didnt work. I ordered the display board with LCD touch so hopefully it will work. Do you think it will?


        • Ryan Posted on May 7, 2013

          If the main control board is not the problem, then it will either be a problem with the user interface board or the wiring.

          • Tim Posted on May 31, 2013

            Yes the lights inside work. I am an appliance technician and have never had this problem. There must be a broken wire somewhere I guess.

  41. salim lewis Posted on May 24, 2013

    is there a book i can purchase on repairing domestic refigerators also on check control boards

  42. Tim Posted on May 24, 2013

    I have a problem where I get no display on the temp control panel, water/ice panel is not working, and the refrigerator is not cooling. I replaced the main board and still have the same issues. I have not checked for a broken wire or corrosion on the the bottom of the door wiring, but I plan to right away. My specific question is this: if the temperature control board/panel is the problem and needs to be replaced, would that cause the water/ice panel to not work also? (I’ve ordered the temp control panel but it just seems odd to me that this would have anything to do with the water and ice dispenser to not work.). Thoughts?

    • Ryan Posted on May 24, 2013

      Yes, bad wiring, bad user interface control board, or a bad main control board could all cause those types of symptoms.

      • Tim Posted on May 30, 2013

        Okay I’ve replaced the main board, the temperature control board, and also checked and saw the wiring at the bottom appears fine. Still no temperature display and compressor is not coming on. Any recommendations. I’ve also replaced main board twice thinking I got a faulty board. I’m lost at this point. Could it be I have to cut the wire in pin 2? Model is GSS25TSRBSS serial number SG434835

        • Ryan Posted on May 31, 2013

          Cutting the wire on pin 2 does not affect the display from working or not. Do the lights inside the refrigerator work?

          • Tim Posted on May 31, 2013

            Yes the lights inside work. I am an appliance technician and have never had this problem. There must be a broken wire somewhere I guess.

        • Ryan Posted on May 31, 2013

          Yes, it sounds like there is a wiring problem.

  43. Peter Posted on June 7, 2013

    My GE Profile refrigerator stopped working a couple days ago. The light works inside, but all the display indicators/buttons are off, the fridge no longer cools, and water/ice dispensers do not respond. For several months prior to this, the freezer and fridge temperature fluctuated up to 7-11 degrees. This happened for several months but I just ignored it. I have ordered a new motherboard and am hoping this will work. What do you think the problem is?

    • Ryan Posted on June 7, 2013

      It sounds like you might have two different problems. Please post your question on our repair forum for more help with your problem.

  44. Michael Gardner Posted on June 12, 2013

    I don’t understand how cutting the j2 wire that is for FF fridge side thermistor .
    How will the new board sense the temp in the fridge ? My ser starts with vg2 and I have white wire with a yellow stripe

    • Ryan Posted on June 13, 2013

      It will still read the temperature fine with the wire cut. It will NOT read the temperature correctly if you do not cut the wire, and your refrigerator needs to have the wire cut.

  45. Tonya LaPoint Posted on June 13, 2013

    I have a GE Profile-controls are digital. Had a problem with water dripping from the top of frig.There was a lot of water in frig. Found out it was caused by the seal being off at bottom of door. Fixed the seal problem but now my freezer works but not the refrigerator. The temperature control display does not work. Please help.

    • Ryan Posted on June 13, 2013

      Tonya, please post your question on our repair forum for more help with your problem.

  46. Mark Posted on June 14, 2013

    I am trying to replace the main board on my GSH22KGRE. The replacement part for this is the WR55X10942.
    I replaced the board, but the compressor and evaporator fan are not turning on…

    The instructions note that for some models, you have to cut the pin 2 wire on the J1 connector. Also mention that you may have to cut the green wire on the capacitor board.
    The instructions do not specify my model for these steps, but in the forums it mentions that some models are not listed.

    Would these wires cause my issues?
    I don’t like to cut wires when I don’t know the purpose, just want to be sure that it is not a bad board before I start cutting wires.

    • Ryan Posted on June 14, 2013

      Do you have a wire going to pin 2?

    • Mark Posted on June 14, 2013

      Looks like I just had to wait for approx 45 min.
      Everything seems to be working now.
      That would have been a nice thing to add to the instructions, was getting a little anxious.

      • Ryan Posted on June 14, 2013

        There is a delay so the compressor may not turn on for up to 15 minutes on new control board. Also, you will need to wait up to 24 hours for the refrigerator to cool back down.

  47. Tony Posted on August 13, 2013

    My control board is bad. I can see the burned resistor. How likely is it that some other component failed then causing the board to go bad? I would hate to install a new board to have it go up in flames right after plugging the fridge in.

    • Ryan Posted on August 13, 2013

      A common problem is for the evaporator fan motor in the freezer to go bad and cause the burned resistor. When this happens you will hear the fan in the freezer varying speeds erratically. When this happens, you should replace both the control board and fan motor.

  48. Susie Posted on September 10, 2013

    I have a Ge Refrigerator side by side GSS25LGPACC …no green ground wire on my board ..will this board work on mine

    • Ryan Posted on September 10, 2013

      Part number WR55X10942 is correct for your model refrigerator. This control board can mounted horizontally or vertically depending on the application. All of the plugs have different amounts of pins, so if you are unsure where a connector goes, you can count the pins to match up where it should go.

  49. Susie Posted on September 10, 2013

    Also will all pins that do get plugged in match,..i have 9…10…then 5 and one row then 8 by itself then the 2 plugs on the other side….also can board b turned to go across ..

  50. Cyrus Posted on December 8, 2013

    I have posted on this topic before. I was wondering if someone here could draw a diagnostic flow chart for these fridges. As in how do you diagnose if the control board, the heat sensor, the small board or the starter relay is bad?
    My lites come on, fridge is cold, not much air blows into the chambers, the condenser does get warm a little, the heat exchanger tubes are room temperature.

  51. Cyrus Posted on December 8, 2013
  52. Ryan Posted on December 10, 2013

    The basic concept of that flow chart works, but many newer refrigerator systems have become more complicated and that chart will not work with those systems. You cannot make a flow chart that will work for all refrigerators.

  53. Stephanie Posted on December 23, 2013

    I just purchase the main board wr55x10942 for my GE side by side refrigerator and it comes with a ground wire in which I don’t have a ground wire connector. What should I do with this wire?

    • Ryan Posted on December 23, 2013

      You should be able to ground it to one of the screws that goes on the metal cover access plate.

  54. Kimberlee Posted on December 25, 2013

    Hello, Help! Just reading your blog I have hope you can. My GE PDS22MBPABB bottom frz unit fresh food area was not cooling. I had an unfortunate experience with an appliance repair person. He installed a new main board, and never tested anything just went straight to the board replacement and next day did not believe it was not cooling even though I sent a pic of the readout shows 37, with the actual at 70 on a Fischer scientific tstat. So another repair company came and installed a WR50x10088 and the next day it still did not work. He returned stumped and propped I think the damper door open to wait on a part the thermistor (reading online I had suggested since he was stumped)? It made it to actual 43, but that did not last. Now he has not returned (holidays) and I ordered and installed a thermistor wr55x10025 myself. No go. Now reading about main boards I find info about cutting some wires that now I see did not happen by guy 1…nor checked by 2nd guy and I see the number on installed board is WKKT 0188-80-77. Help please! Is this a correct part? Or Help! next thing I should try or do? Merry Christmas!

    • Ryan Posted on December 25, 2013

      It sounds like they might have needed to cut the #2 wire on the 9 pin connector. If you don’t do this, it will show the readout temp as correct like yours is doing.

      • Kimberlee Posted on December 25, 2013

        After finding the cut suggestion last night I’ve been indecisive all day and after I posted I said what the heck and went for it. I received your response wow thanks for the fast reply. So now I wait. Fingers crossed this is all!

      • Kimberlee Posted on December 26, 2013

        well now the actual temp is being correctly displayed. So cutting was needed. Just no cold air or air at all coming into the fresh food area that I can tell. Fans running cold air in frzr so something is working at the moment. I had the unit off for about 5 hours today thinking maybe I would try leaving it off for the day. Maybe it needs to defrost.

        • Ryan Posted on December 26, 2013

          Once the refrigerator is working correctly, you will need to leave it for 24 hours to cool back down.

          • Kimberlee Posted on December 26, 2013

            Ok. Thanks. It has only been 12 hours and the fresh is 66 and frz is 0 …all morning. Still as last night little air is coming out of the hole between the two. I took off the damper assembly last night because the prior repair guy had propped the damper door open and unplugged it since the temp in the fresh was not reading correctly because of the wires not cut. Researching more and no air above a spinning evap fan it seems maybe it is frozen up solid in there? This is exactly what was happening before any repair person walked in the door! So I’m going after an ohm meter to test the other 2 thermistors? before I just do these like I did the fresh food one. Fan runs, frzr is cold, no air coming out of frzr. I do see a little ice on the back frzr wall. I really don’t want to take out the whole drawer and frzr back myself 🙁 to see if it is frzn.

        • Ryan Posted on December 26, 2013

          The refrigerator should have cooled down more than that by now. You may have a problem with the refrigerator not going through the automatic defrost cycle. If you need more help with this please post on our repair forum

  55. Kimberlee Posted on December 26, 2013

    Hi, I just remembered. I left town when the last repair guy propped the damper open about 2 days after replacing the bimetal. Frz was fine, but the fresh made it to about 43 for maybe 5 days then it went back up to 70’s.

  56. CARLOS LISTA Posted on December 27, 2013


    • Ryan Posted on December 27, 2013

      I’m sorry, we are not able to look up model numbers from outside the United States.

  57. CARLOS LISTA Posted on December 27, 2013


  58. Joe Posted on June 2, 2014

    Display temp reads 66 but fridge is cold??

  59. oscar figueroa Posted on July 21, 2014

    refrigerator model lg profile pgss5pjx, the compressor stopped working, replace control board compressor WR49X10283 (showed signs of burning) , and work perfectly for 4 days, then stopped working about 45 minutes, I push the condenser fan and started working, 2 days working. ¿ Will I need to change either the condenser fan? very grateful for your help.

    • Ryan Posted on September 10, 2014

      You should replace the condenser fan motor and main control board to permanently fix the problem.

  60. Martin Blakley Posted on August 14, 2014

    This is exactly what I’ve been looking for. I have GE Model GSS22IBPAWW. My board blew out on the Compressor Control Circuit. Our Repairman replaced the board and was adamant about clipping wire only on the bottom Freezer units. He didn’t read the instructions just installed the board. Ever since then our FF Section has been running between 52-60 degrees. I’m wondering if our model is one of the ones requiring the clipping of the #2 wire. Been without a properly functioning Refrigerator for over 2 months. Any help would be appreciated as the Repairman has thrown his hands in the air and won’t try anything else.



  61. Martin Blakley Posted on August 15, 2014

    Thanks for this page. After 2 months without a functioning refrigerator I finally found the instruction for this Mother Board online. Sure enough mine was one of the 12 serial number prefixes on the list. I clipped the wire and for the first time in 2 months my refrigerator is below 50 degrees in the FF section.

    Martin Blakley

  62. Ron Jogers Posted on September 14, 2014

    Have a GE Profile Side by Side. Replaced mother board (wr55x10942) along with heater and thermostat. Current problem is that top 1/3 of freezer is not staying cold (bottom is) while lower 1/3 of refrigerator is freezing. Any suggestions on what the problem is and next steps to fix.

    • Ryan Posted on September 22, 2014

      Please post your question on our repair forum and we can try to help you out there.

  63. John Calvello Posted on October 17, 2014

    Maybe you can help me. I have a GE side by side, Mod# dsd26dhwabg, the problem is the refrig. side is not getting cold so I unplug it and waited one hour and plugged it back in. It now worked OK. the temp did go up and down by itself. So I called a Sears repairman who came out and said it was my main control board. My control board is wr55x10699 and board he had on his truck was wr55x10942. He said this is a replacement board. When he installed it the front panel light started to flash and could not be controlled. So he tried another
    board. with the same results. So he put back the bad board and everything works OK. He ordered the original part number and had it shipped to my house. The new part came as wr55x10942, which is the same as he had on his truck. I called to tell them the part came in and set up an appointment. it will be a week and a half before he comes back. I have a feeling that its going to happen again. So any suggestions on what to tell him to check. Thisis repair is close to $400.00.

    • Ryan Posted on October 18, 2014

      According to the manufacture, part # WR55X10942 is correct for your model refrigerator. I am not sure why the new control boards are not working correctly. I would double check that all of the connections are connected in the correct places.

  64. Eric Hinnenkamp Posted on November 10, 2014


    I have a GE side by side, model number GSCS3PGXGFSS, and while everything appears to be working correctly, freezer, fridge, ice maker, etc. The front display will not show the ‘actual’ temp. It will stay at whatever the temp was when the fridge was plugged in. I have a thermometer in the fridge to tell me what it actually is, but when I first went to plug it in, in never moved off of 65 and I believe 45, even though the temp did drop to right where I set it.

    I have read a little bit about cutting a wire on pin two, but I don’t ‘think’ this fridge has had any repair work done to it, as it is only 2 years old. However, I did pick it up used, so anything is possible.

    As long as everything is working properly, I guess it’s not the end of the world, but one of the main reasons I picked this fridge up is for the external display of temp, as I’ve been bitten by that in the past.

    Any help is greatly appreciated.

  65. kostas Posted on January 15, 2015

    I have Model GSG22KEMCFWW and i replace the main board with WR55X10942. The old board stop working. Could you help me if i need to cut the wire? Now the freezer seem that working all the time.
    Thank you in advance for your time.

    • Ryan Posted on January 16, 2015

      You will have to look at your refrigerator. If the wire is there and you have installed a new control board, then you should cut the wire.

      • kostas Posted on January 17, 2015

        Thank you for the reply. I cut the wire but its look that working all the time. Do you have any other suggestion?

  66. HI iam gerald Posted on March 9, 2015

    I have a LG refrigerator model # LFX25960SW I’am getting a code on the front display that reads ER IF when turn on the ice maker I change out the ice maker fan the old one was froze with ice in it unplugged the refrigerator to reset still getting same code is there a control board that turns this fan on and off to get cold are to the ice maker that’s in the door and where it is located so I can fix my refrigerators ice maker thanks for your help

    • Ryan Posted on March 16, 2015

      The main control board part # EBR34917104 is located on the back of the refrigerator and controls the fan motors.

  67. Nigel Francis Posted on May 13, 2015

    hi am nigel i have a GE side by side model gsml3kexifgs no.sv417219 i change the main control board, but when I plug on the unit the display to the front shows two revolving 0 and no adjustment can be made for the temp. also the dispenser for the water and the ice was not functional but the ice maker is making ice it function like that for about 2 weeks and after its not pulling down to temperature but the compressor is coming on all fans working the display and dispenser remains the same non functional but the unit is not getting cold. where do I go from here

    • Ryan Posted on May 13, 2015

      It appears that this is an international (non USA) model refrigerator and we do not have access to information on non US models.

  68. Vinicius Posted on May 13, 2015


    I have a ge refrigerator and need to buy another motherboard. After installed the new WR55X10942 motherboar, the water and ice stop running. The lights is on and i hear the switch noise. I dont know what to do. Maybe the new motherboard is defective?
    My refrigerator model is GCZ23LSSASS serial number DL408065.

    • Ryan Posted on May 14, 2015

      I’m sorry, we do not have any information on international (non USA) models.

  69. Brendan Posted on May 15, 2015

    Just got this board to replace the main board in my fridge, model HSS25IFMCCC. IT kicked the compressor back on, which was the problem I was having.

    Fridge and freezer started cooling, but when I checked on it a few hours later, the center wall was very hot to the touch, and there was a fair amount of heat radiating from the board.

    Is this normal – do I need to just let it work through a few cycles? Or is there something else I need to be looking at?



    • Ryan Posted on May 18, 2015

      Check the cooling fan behind the refrigerator to make sure it is running and dissipating the heat. If this fan it running, then the heat is probably normal operation from the refrigerator just catching up and cooling down. I would let it run for a couple of days and keep an eye on it.

  70. Bal Posted on June 7, 2015

    Recently installed this board (GE WR55X10942) in GE Model PSW26GRB SS Serial No. LG 425068. Refrigerator seems to be working all right but lights that showed temperature no longer function. Any idea what the problem could be?

    • Ryan Posted on June 11, 2015

      First check to make sure all of the wire connectors are connected in the correct places. Sometimes once plug can be off by a pin and cause something to not work correctly. If the display works correctly with the old main control board installed and all of the wire connectors are connected properly, then it could be a defective part.

  71. derrick Posted on June 12, 2015

    I have a ge side by side. The fridge side wasn’t cooling and I thawed the freezer coils manually a few times. This last time I did it the fridge stopped working. Still had lights and front controls but everything else was dead. Had a guy come out and tell me to replace the board which I did but nothing else is working. Any suggestions as to why there is nothing happening?

    • Ryan Posted on June 14, 2015

      You can post your question on our repair forum and we can try to help you out there.

  72. Kirk Posted on June 18, 2015

    HI, I am replacing the mother board on my GE GSS20IEPAWW serial number SF201018. The instructions for J1 says to note wires #1,2,3,4,5, and 9 and to cut wire #2. Howerver on my J1 plug i only have wires slots #2,3,4,5, and 6.
    Now do I still need to cut wire #2 or leave it intact? Any info will be helpful.

    • Ryan Posted on July 15, 2015

      You will need to cut the wire on pin 2.

  73. Gary V. Posted on August 15, 2015

    I installed board WR55X10942 in my GE model GBS22KBSCC – bottom freezer. Eight year-old model.
    Defrost cycle not working correctly.
    I had no Thermistor wire in Pin 2 of J1 connector – no cut needed.
    I did not cut the green wire in the capacitor board.
    By not cutting this – what will happen?

    • Ryan Posted on September 17, 2015

      I am not sure, but I would follow the instructions the manufacture provided with the part.

  74. Kyle Posted on August 16, 2015

    Model Number: PSC23SGPASS
    Brand: GE
    Hello, I’ve attempted to repair what I diagnosed as a faulty motherboard. That seemed to have fixed most of the issues (no temperature gauges or lights, no cooling…) but now my unit will not cool to adequate temperatures, (freezer reads ~19, fridge reads ~60). It cooled down from room temp but has seemed to be locked in at those temperatures. I was wondering what the next steps would be in my situation?

    • Ryan Posted on September 17, 2015

      It sounds like you probably have a separate problem causing the refrigerator not to cool properly. This problem could be related to what caused the main control board to originally fail.

  75. Just double zeros go back and forth on the front panel when new motherboards installed Posted on August 25, 2015

    Mine is doing the same thing as Niles is, have the GE side-by-side profile not cooling, when I put the new motherboard in I just have two zeros on the front panel flashing all over the front panel where the temperatures supposed to be. Also water dispenser doesn’t work or nothing else i.e. temp control when I have a new motherboard installed. When I put the old motherboard back in everything works fine on the front panel but it just isn’t cool like it is supposed to. My mainboard is a WR 55X10942 and I replaced it with the same, any ideas why would it be flashing double zeros on the front panel on all the led spots I made sure there was no lint on anything and it was clean by the fan. What a broken plug-in under the door be the culprit? I have pretty good aptitude for working on appliances since I repair washers and dryers as a side job for extra money

    • Ryan Posted on September 17, 2015

      If the control board is the correct one, then either something is connected wrong or the control board is bad.

    • Shaun Posted on August 25, 2016

      did you find out what was making the 0’s on display, I replaced my board and fridge comes on but having same issue… any help would be great…thanks

  76. Thomas Posted on September 17, 2015

    It was the remanufactured control board that I bought, it was bad. I went ahead and ordered another one from the same company. (sent the first one back, they paid the return shipping, no hassle what so ever) So when the new one came in, plugged it in and it was all good to go everything works perfectly. The fridge/freezer keeps the exact temps it supposed to keep and is much quieter.

    • Ryan Posted on September 21, 2015

      Thanks for the update. We have not seen very good luck with remanufactured and aftermarket control boards, we recommend to purchase the new OEM replacement whenever it is available.

  77. Mike Posted on September 18, 2015

    Hello. I have a GE PSS25SGMD BS that recently had a defrost problem. I replaced the defrost thermostat as well as both thermistors in the freezer. The defrost heater tested good at 21 ohms so was not replaced. I then tried to put it in to defrost through the diagnostic mode to no success. So I just replaced the main board. My question is two part. Will the diagnostic defrost test work if the freezer is cold enough or does it have to go through pre chill first? Also, since installing the new board, the evap fan stays on even when the freezer door is open. Before it went off when the door was open unless it was left open for a few minutes. Thanks for any advice you can offer.

    • Ryan Posted on September 21, 2015

      What diagnostic mode are you using? I would just let the refrigerator run on its own for 3-7 days and you will know whether the it is working correctly or not. If you purchased a new OEM control board, GE has changed the programming of certain functions, so the fan motors could act slightly different then how they did with your original control board.

  78. Mike Posted on September 22, 2015

    I was using a mode I found online where you hold all four temp buttons and when it flashes zero you hit a button in the middle. It says 1 on the freezer side and 4 on the fridge side is defrost mode. I couldn’t get it to defrost doing this but it has been a week since I swapped everything and all is good so far. It is an oem GE board. The blue plug is down lower on the new board so the wires don’t reach if I install the board in the mounting holes. I think it will be fine in there loose. The Evap fan staying on when the freezer door is open is the only difference I’ve noticed so far. Thanks for your advice and input!!!

  79. Ed Hart Posted on December 7, 2018

    I am very please with the technical support I received when I installed a new Main Board in my GE Fridge. The guy was spot on. Pricing for the part was the best I could find on the internet. It was an exact replacement. I will use these guys again if the need should arise. VERY HAPPY CUSTOMER!!!! Thank You

  80. Brandon Bailey Posted on February 26, 2019

    I have a GE GSH25JSTASS and the control board seems to have died. I am looking at the replacement part WR55X10942 as the option for my fridge. The problem I am seeing with there are extra connection ports on the board that my fridge doesn’t use. It is my understanding that I will not have to use every connection port. I have read through the above articles and the forums but I couldn’t find an answer to my question. My question is on my current (bad/stopped working) control board my ground wire is connected my connector(snaps together). I see that the replacement part ( WR55X10942) in the store has the ground wire connecting to one of the cover door screw by an eye-let screw. Do I have to cut off the connector on the green wire on the fridge side and then splice it together with the new parts ( WR55X10942) eye-let screw connection?

    Thank you,

    • Ryan Posted on February 26, 2019

      Hi Brandon,

      The easiest solution to this issue, is to take the ground wire off the old board and transfer it over to the new board.

  81. Joe Wallace Posted on March 7, 2020

    My GE Profile refrigerator stopped working the other day. All power is out to the refer; refrigeration cooling, lights and display panel, but the green light in the ice was still on.

    I had a service tech come out and he diagnosed it as a faulty mouther board. He wanted $600.00 to repair, so I ordered a board to do myself.

    I received the new mother board and installed it today. When I plugged the refer back in to test it I had the same issues, but now I have an electric hum and chirping sound coming form the mother board. Its sounds like a bad condenser/mouther board???

    Can you comment on this?

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