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Appliance Repair Blog

W10757851 Ice Level Optics Board Diagnostics & Replacement

Posted on July 11, 2014

Whirlpool built refrigerators (also found on Jenn Air, Kenmore, Kitchen Aid, and Maytag brand refrigerators) with the ice bin located in the door use two optic control boards (part# W10757851) to tell when the ice bin is full of ice. There is an emitter control board that sends out an infrared beam, and a receiver board that receives the infrared beam. When the ice container fills up with ice, the beam is blocked, and it tells the ice maker to stop filling up with ice. If the ice maker optic control boards fail, it can cause the ice maker to continue to make ice even when it is full of ice or turned off, or it can cause the ice maker to not produce any ice at all. The optics control boards are replaced as a set, even if only one of the two control boards are bad, both will need to be replaced.

How To Test The Whirlpool Ice Maker Optic Control Boards W10757851

First, open the freezer door and look at the status LED on the right hand side. Make sure the ice maker control is turned “ON”. The status LED should blink twice, pause, and then repeat (blink blink…. pause. blink blink… pause).


Next, with the freezer door open, hold down the flapper door on the left hand side to un-block the optics beam.  With the optics beam unblocked, the status LED should light up and stay on (not blink).  If the status LED continues to blink twice, then you have faulty optic control boards and they will need to be replaced.


If there is no status LED light, then the ice maker could be in “harvest” mode.  Hold down the freezer light switch, the status LED should flash every second while in harvest mode.  If the LED light still does not light up, then the optic control boards will need to be replaced.

How To Replace The Whirlpool Ice Maker Optic Control Boards W10757851

First, unplug the refrigerator.

Remove the three Phillips screws on the right hand side.


Disconnect the wire harness on the back side and then remove the two Phillips screws to release the receiver control board from the housing.  Re-install the receiver board in the reverse order.


Next, remove the three Phillips screws on the left hand side.


Disconnect the wire harness on the top side and then remove the two Phillips screws to release the emitter control board from the housing.  Re-install the emitter board in the reverse order.


Do you need to replace the optic control boards?  Click the link below to visit our store and purchase new ones.  Be careful when shopping around for this part, as many stores sell a lower quality knockoff version of this part.  You can be assured when you order the optics control board kit from Parts Dr that you are receiving a new OEM part.

Ice Level Optics Control Board Kit – Part # W10757851


84 Thoughts on "W10757851 Ice Level Optics Board Diagnostics & Replacement"

  1. Kay Posted on July 27, 2014

    Hello – I did all of that, replacing the optics board transmitter and receiver, but it still won’t make ice. What should I do now?

    • Bob Posted on January 1, 2015

      Kay- Same problem here, did you ever get it resolved? I changed the optics (which were bad) and it’s still not making ice. My optics were down for a couple of years, wondering if all that sitting time (the freezer was always in use) caused another malfunction?

  2. Kay Posted on January 14, 2015

    Bob – as it turned out, my entire unit was faulty, not just the optics. I found the part at a local appliance supply and it only took about five minutes to replace it. It all works fine now!

    • Antonio Posted on April 8, 2015

      What was the part you had to replace in addition to the optics?

    • Ralph Fay Posted on February 7, 2016

      what was the part you had to replace in addition to the optics

      • Denis Posted on January 12, 2023

        My Whirlpool ED2KHAXVT01 refrigerator stopped making Ice about 2 weeks ago, but I still had water dispensing with good pressure. I first replaced the water filter, then the Intel water valve, then hitting the ice maker tray hose with a hair dryer, I removed the Ice maker and put a shunt on the terminals H and T to cycle the ice maker, it did cycle but still no ice. So, I just replaced the sensor because I went through your test procedure on testing the ice level optic board sensor and when you pushed the door flap the laser would stay blinking every 2 seconds. The new boards did the same thing. So right now I’m at a loss at what to do next.
        Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

        Thank you

  3. Dina Posted on January 16, 2015

    I’ve replaced the receiver and emitter board and still no ice. When I hold down the freezer door switch the status LED doesn’t flash once every second. Do I still have a problem? I get the 2 pulses/1 second delay and a steady light when the emitter flapper is pressed in.

    • Ryan Posted on January 17, 2015

      When doing the blink test you cannot have the door switch held down. When the beam is blocked you should get 2 pulses and a 1 sec delay.

      • Kathie Posted on January 22, 2015

        I do get 2 pause 2. Hold flapper it’s constant. Then separately I tried holding flapper door and light switch off and the Led stays completely off. Is that correct? If holding both at same time should the Led be on or off ?

        • Ryan Posted on January 22, 2015

          The light switch cannot be pressed in when doing the test.

          • Tony Posted on May 18, 2015

            The question still remains. When the “door” switch is pressed, should the red LED still stay on. It seem to go off when the door switch is pressed. This does not seem to make sense to me. I would expect the optic board light to be on with and without the door switch pressed.

          • Ryan Posted on May 18, 2015

            The LED does not remain on when the door switch is pressed except when the ice maker is in harvest mode.

  4. Denise Posted on February 9, 2015

    Ice maker not making ice or getting water. I’ve checked to see if it was frozen tube with hairdryer. with freezer door open i get 2 blinks. With the flapper depressed its a solid red light. when i push the light button there is no red light. Help.

    • Ryan Posted on February 19, 2015

      The optics board test is not meant to be done with the door light switch pushed in. It sounds like your optic boards are most likely working correctly. To check the water line to see if it is frozen, you should remove the line from the water valve and blow through it. If the line is frozen you should thaw the line and then replace the water inlet valve to keep the line from re-freezing. If the optic boards are good then you could have a bad ice maker or bad water inlet valve.

  5. Denise Posted on February 19, 2015

    So it’s either a frozen water line, water inlet valve, optic board or a bad ice maker. Thanks

  6. Jose Posted on March 14, 2015

    I have a kitchenAid which is not make ice. When I look at the optic board, I do not see any light at all. Is there a fuse or an electrical check i could check to be assure the board are bad and not that i have a problem elsewhere?

    • Ryan Posted on March 16, 2015

      Since the light from the optics board is infared, you cannot see it with the human eye. That is why you should perform the diagnostic tests that we list to see if they are functioning properly.

      • Josh Posted on August 5, 2015

        I have a whirlpool the optics seem to be fine since it fills up the ice tray to the proper level then quits making ice…. However with the door closed neither dispenser for ice nor water works!!! HELP!!!

        • Ryan Posted on August 11, 2015

          Check the door switch.

  7. jim Posted on March 17, 2015

    I have replaced valve and ice maker is still not making ice. When the door is open there is open should I see the optic light blinking. I have no lights at all. What else can I do

    • Ryan Posted on March 17, 2015

      Check the water line going to the ice maker and make sure the line is not frozen. The best way to do this is to unplug the refrigerator and remove the line from the water valve and blow through it. To test the optics board you will need to perform the optics control board tests to see if they are working properly.

  8. nick Posted on March 19, 2015

    I don’t know if my ice maker is having the same problem with it or not so here’s what I found after analyzing it: the icemaker unit seems to be functional as the tray is filled with cubes and the fingers of the maker are in resting positon, the ice maker control board has a flashing red light even when the flap of the adjacent side infared receiver is closed and there is no light being sent from the receiver to the control board, it has been about a week now since I have not had any ice produced, I’d appreciate any tips or help anyone can provide on whether I’d need to replace the control board, infrared reciever or both.

    • Ryan Posted on March 20, 2015

      It is possible for the ice maker to be bad even if there is ice in the tray. You will not be able to visually see any light coming from the optics boards since it is infrared light (not visible to the human eye). If the optics boards pass the tests, then they are usually okay and do not need to be replaced.

  9. jim Posted on March 20, 2015

    I replaced the optic sensors on both sides turned off ice maker then unloaded the freezer. turned the freezer to the lowest setting to let any ice freeze up in the line thaw along with using a hair dryer and blowing air inside and out side were the water line is located. Making sure not to melt the lines and I even turned off the refrigerator off for a couple hours. Food in refridgerator should be OK for that length of time if not opened. When I was satisfied I turned on the refrigerator and freezer filled the ice maker with water then turned on ice maker then waited to see if ice maker would cycle. It did and is now making ice. Also make sure you have good water flow to the water and ice valve.

  10. jim Posted on March 20, 2015

    When I open the door the optic light blinks twice then close the receiving door on the left side it will stay lite . do not block light single.

    • Ryan Posted on March 23, 2015

      The receiver on the left side is not supposed to light up.

  11. DN Posted on April 14, 2015

    I have the KitchenAid KSSC48QMS01. My ice maker stopped working and noticed that the heating element was corroded through. I attempted to fix by soldering but was not successful as it appeared to short and blow out my emitter board. There was a burn mark behind the emitter board. I ordered a new icemaker and new emitter board, installed and still not working. No nights at all on the emitter board and the ice maker appears to have no power. To be sure I did not have a bad new board, I ordered another emitter set and still no lights on the emitter or power to the icemaker.
    – Where does the emitter board get its power from?
    – Does it connect into the main control board at the top of the fridge and if so what could I have blown there? All other functions in the fridge and freezer appear to work fine with the exception of the icemaker and emitter board.
    – Is there a separate power board?
    – Kitchen aid no longer makes the mail control board so it would need to be rebuilt, any recommendations?
    – Is there anything else’s I should be looking at that can be the reason why the Emitter Board does not appear to have power assuming the emitter is good?
    – I did check the harness from the emitter to the ice maker and that seems to be OK
    – The water and ice controls in the fridge door do work.
    I would be grateful for any guidance. And yes, I already know that I should be just purchased a new ice maker to begin with as the emitter did appear operational beforehand.

    • Ryan Posted on April 24, 2015

      It look to me like the relay control board part # W10219463 supplies power to the ice maker. This part has been discontinued by the manufacture, so you will either need to look for a used one or a company that can rebuild your existing control board.

  12. DN Posted on April 25, 2015

    Yep, that is what it was and replaced with a new or rebuilt one that my repair man had. Works like a charm and its great to see a full door of ice. Thanks!

  13. skw Posted on May 7, 2015

    I found my optic control board full of frozen water along with frozen water up into the water line frozen into the ice fill below. I’ve defrosted everything. Optic control board continues to do the double blink pause in all circumstances, even with ice maker turned off. Is it a goner due to being frozen? Thanks for any responses 🙂

    • Ryan Posted on May 13, 2015

      Yes, it sounds like the optic boards are bad based on what you have described.

  14. wahid Posted on May 26, 2015

    Where I can buy mine prt NO 2198586?
    It is not doing anything.

  15. DAVID Posted on June 8, 2015

    My IDI Motor or Augar Motor was shorted. Now my whole left side of my 42 in side by side fridge has no power; no lights, no water dispenser, no ice maker, but the freezer is still working. My questions is which control boards or power supply board control the left side of the fridge. How to test this?

    • Ryan Posted on June 11, 2015

      Please post your question on our repair forums with your refrigerators model number and we can try to help you with this.

  16. Chemeille Posted on June 12, 2015

    I’ve replaced the boards and did the diagnostic tests. The light is solid when flapper door is closed. How long will it take for the trays to fill and make ice?

    • Ryan Posted on June 14, 2015

      The ice maker has to be cold enough to start making ice. Leave the door closed to let the freezer cool back down and it should start making ice in the next 2-6 hours if it is working properly.

    • Bill Cooper Posted on January 1, 2020

      Where does icemaker on Whirpool Gold get its power. Only have 55 volts going to icemaker.

  17. Oz Posted on July 1, 2015

    Kitchen aide superba
    Mod# KSC25INSS01

    No ice.

    Made sure it’s on first. So I inspected the icemaker. There was mold in it. So I decided to replace that icemaker anyway. While I waited for the new icemaker I diagnosed the optics. The optics test came back faulty. So I ordered new optics boards. I replaced both components and still no ice production. New optics boards show faulty. Seems to me like there’s no signal being sent from the icemaker to the water valve. So I tested that too, and it came back good. I’ve tested all the wires for broken connection, I have perfect connection. There is no blockage in the water fill tube.
    I don’t know what else to do !!!

    • Ryan Posted on July 16, 2015

      Did you replace the optics boards with new OEM replacement part # W10757851?

  18. Chic Zirjacks Posted on July 7, 2015

    I have a Kenmore 106-56703500 and the ice maker stopped delivering ice. I noticed that the ice level control beam was not on, as usual, so it was suggested that I unplug the fridge to “reboot” the optical control boards. When I do that, the control beam comes on red for about 10 seconds and then goes off, completely, regardless of the light control flapper position.

    Does this mean that the control boards are bad or is there something else to check?

    Thanks for any input, Chic

    • Ryan Posted on July 16, 2015

      What you are calling the “control beam” is actually the status LED. The beam is not visible to the human eye. To test the optics board, perform the steps at the top of the page.

      • Chic Posted on July 16, 2015

        OK, then just change the words “control beam” to read “status LED” and the info in the post will still apply. Aside for when it is on for 10 seconds after a power cycle, it is off, including when performing the test described at the top of the page.

        • Ryan Posted on July 21, 2015

          Do you have the serial number of your refrigerator?

          • Chic Posted on July 21, 2015

            The model # is 106.56703500 Kenmore. I ordered a new set of controller boards for the level controller and the system began working a day before the boards arrived. Evidently, the infrared beam is now working but I still don’t get the indicator LED lights. No worry, however, as I now have ice!

          • Chic Posted on July 21, 2015

            SN SS5156298

  19. Jon Posted on July 18, 2015

    I get a double blink with the flapper open, and when I hold it closed I get a long blink followed by a short blink and then a pause. I can’t figure out what it means.

    • Ryan Posted on July 21, 2015

      The manufacture does not list that as an option for the LED pulses that I am finding.

    • TBone Posted on August 5, 2015

      I am getting the same pulse pattern, Jon. Did you figure out the problem?

  20. Chic Posted on July 21, 2015

    The model # is 106.56703500 Kenmore. I ordered a new set of controller boards for the level controller and the system began working a day before the boards arrived. Evidently, the infrared beam is now working but I still don’t get the indicator LED lights. No worry, however, as I now have ice!

  21. Mike Posted on July 28, 2015

    So, I too was dealing with the two flash & pause thing. Little to no ice for a couple weeks now. Even the whirlpool ICE maker service sheet that came with the unit indicated the issue as defective boards. Being the cynical guy I am, I decided to experiment. In no particular order I touched and toggled the door light switch, the left flap, and the On/Off switch. Now I have solid light with left flap manually held flat (stimulating an empty bin) and then flashing twice when the optics blocked (simulating a full bin). Whirlpool service sheet and what I gathered from this seems to indicate my unit is working properly again. Now I must wait for that tell tale clunking of ice cubes. Did I stumbled on a “reset” or optics reboot? I wish I remembered the order of which I touched & toggled switches, but thems be the breaks.

  22. Julie Posted on July 31, 2015

    I replaced both optics boards and the ice maker itself and I’m still having no luck (we waited a full 24 hours for ice production too). One thing I’m noticing is that the harvesting arms are up. Isn’t that the position they should be in when pushing the ice out?

    I’m lost. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    • Ryan Posted on August 11, 2015

      The refrigerators that use the optics control boards do not have the metal bail arm installed on the ice maker. The optic boards take place of the bail arm to tell the ice maker when the bin is full and to stop making ice.

  23. Mike Posted on August 8, 2015

    To add to my efforts, the ice maker worked for a day or so. Being the frustrated fart that I am, I did the punch and bang treatment. Then it started making ice again. That made me understand it wasn’t electrical or mechanical. Perhaps the electrical connections has a frost or moisture corrosion. It did the same as few days ago and another punchin/shakedown worked. I’ll next pull the unit and hit it with some WD40 out Teflon spray.

  24. Jerry Posted on September 8, 2015

    I have a Kenmore refrigerator that is about 3-4 years old and it has stopped making ice,
    When I open the freezer door the optics board on the right blinks twice and then pauses.
    With the freezer door open, I hold the flapper door shut, with the optics beam unblocked, the light on the right side stays on steady, which means that the control boards are good…I think. When I look at the optics beam hole on the left side I do not see any flashing lights, does that mean the control boards are bad or is it the actual ice dispenser? I can feel frozen ice in the dispenser.

    • Ryan Posted on September 17, 2015

      The beam cannot be seen with the human eye because it is infared. If the optics boards test good, then I would guess your ice maker is bad since it has ice in the tray.

  25. ibeck Posted on September 13, 2015

    Did the optics board test and checked out good. Unplugged the refrigerator for about 20 minutes. No LEDs present but does blink once indicating that it is in harvest mode. What does that mean (Harvest mode)?

    • Ryan Posted on September 17, 2015

      Harvest mode is when the ice maker is in the process of dumping out a batch of ice and then refilling with water.

  26. Steve Posted on September 16, 2015

    I have a worldpool gold series. The other day dumped the ice bin and it hasn’t made ice. There is a red light inside near switch, when I reset (unplug and plug in) light comes on and after a few mins the light goes out. Still no ice….please help the unit is only 2 hrs old.

    • Ryan Posted on September 17, 2015

      Refrigerators take a while to cool down and start making ice. Please allow 24 hours for your refrigerator to cool down and start making ice.

  27. Russ Posted on August 3, 2016

    I need the flapper door assy. on the left hand side and the flapper assy. that covers the front of the ice maker which bolts to the fridge above the ice maker, are they available?

    • Ryan Posted on October 6, 2016

      Yes we usually have those available. Just search your model number on our website. I think the part is called the “flipper”?

  28. Alton Robinson Posted on November 4, 2018

    On Whirlpool Model WRF989SDAM03. Ice maker not making ice. Here is what i Have done to correct problem to no avail:
    1. Cleared water line from faucet. 2. Replaced Water Inlet Valve. 3. Replaced Ice Maker. 4. Replaced Emitter Control Board (not the Receiving Board). 4. Use hair dryer to ensure water lines not frozen. 5. Replaced Water Filter. 6. Checked refrigerator balance.
    Ice Maker appears to go through cycle, but no ice still. What more can I do or look for to resolve problem?

    • Ryan Posted on November 5, 2018

      Check for breaks in the wires that come out of the door.

  29. PC Posted on December 19, 2018

    For my KitchenAid KSF26C6CXYY04, the ice maker, optical emitter, optical receiver and ice bucket are all located in the door. No ice is being made.

    When I turn the power off and then back on, the red light at the optical receiver will stay on solid if I keep the flapper closed (regardless of the dual door switch positions). However, after a few minutes with the door closed and checking on it again, the red light will be off. This is consistent after multiple attempts. Why does it turn off? The only way to get the red light back on is to turn off the power and then back on. I have had the power off for as much as 10 minutes at a time before turning it back on and getting the same result with the red light going out after a few minutes.

    I am not able to get the red light to blink at all regardless of the dual door switch positions. The lower door switch turns the light bulb in the back of the freezer on and off. What does the upper door switch do? Could it be faulty and preventing the ice maker from making ice?

    I suspected the optical emitter and/or optical receiver, so I replaced them both and still have the same result with no ice being made but a solid red light for a few minutes after turning the power off and back on.

    I next replaced the ice maker control module, however that did not change anything either. No ice is being made and the red light goes out after a few minutes.

    I also used a hair dryer on the water fill tube at the top of the ice maker just to ensure that it was not an ice blockage issue. There did not appear to be any ice blockage.

    I have powered off and back on with the fill tray empty as well as other attempts with the fill tray manually filled with 5-6 oz of water. Neither condition changed the result = no ice being made and red light goes out after a few minutes.

    Do you have any other thoughts on how to diagnose this problem? Thanks

    • don Posted on January 1, 2019

      i have a whirlpool, mine does the same, no ice being made have to reset for the led light to come on and bk out after a few mins. would hope someone would know what to do next , want to know if the emitter boards are ok if this does this, or ice maker causing this problem thanks

    • PC Posted on January 19, 2019

      I have now replaced the ice maker unit and the problem persists = no ice being made and red light goes out after a few minutes.

      I had a repairman come by and diagnose the problem as a faulty dual water valve. I had previously checked it with the multimeter and it was within range of the proper resistance. However, even if the valve electrics check out ok, the valve can be made mechanically. So, I replaced the dual water valve. And, the problem persists = no ice being made and red light goes out after a few minutes.

      This is futile and ridiculous. I’ve replaced everything there is to replace. What else is there to try?

  30. MJ Posted on January 23, 2019

    Mine is doing the same thing as PC’s and I’ve replaced everything too.

  31. PC Posted on January 24, 2019

    Don and MJ – – Maybe, just maybe, I found something that might be the cause. My refrigerator is a side by side with the ice maker in the door. Not just the ice bucket but the ice maker is mounted in the freezer door. The electric wires that power the ice maker are run from the bottom front of the refrigerator (behind the kick plate) and some go through the freezer door bottom hinge pin and some go around the hinge pin. Those little wires change direction from horizontal along the bottom of the refrigerator cabinet to vertical as they move up the freezer door. The problem is that the electric wires have the 90 degree turn located at the hinge pin. Whenever the freezer door is opened, those ice maker electric wires move a little and get bent back and forth. Eventually those little wires will break and then something related to the ice maker, ice dispenser or water dispenser will stop working.

    If this sounds like it might be your issue, check out the pictures of this problem on applianceblog . com under a search topic called “GSF264C4EXY02 Whirlpool Gold Ice Maker Problem”. It really looks like this is a common problem (ie engineering flaw) in these models where the ice maker is in the freezer door.

    It’s not too difficult to check your wires. Just remove the kickplate and unbolt the wiring harness from the bottom attachments. Pull the water lines from the barrel connectors, they won’t leak much. I was then able to pull the plate out where 3 wire connection clips can be disconnected from the refrigerator. On the bottom of my freezer door where the wires went up near the hinge pin, I was able to remove a small plastic cover to further gain access to where the wires became hidden up into the freezer door. I cut through the plastic braided wiring sheath and exposed a tape wire wrap. Carefully cutting through and removing the tape wire wrap, I was able to expose 6 wires. About an inch and half from where the wires are hidden behind the freezer door, I saw 3 of my 6 wires had been broken and 1 more was in the process of breaking as the wire insulation had already been worn away and the copper wire was exposed.

    I had to remove the freezer door to reconnect those broken wires. Check out the youtube video titled “7 Part 7 Whirlpool Refrigerator Door Removal and Replacement”. It was not that difficult to remove. I stuffed an old blanket into the freezer to try to keep the food frozen while I worked on the wire repair.

    After my freezer took 30 – 45 minutes to get back to the appropriate temp, the ice maker called for water and 30 minutes later I had ice cubes in the bucket. It called for water immediately and appears to be making the second batch of ice now.

    Now, interestingly, when I powered back on after the repair, the red optical sensor light was only on for a few minutes and then went out. So, is the red light supposed to be on and stay on or not? Or is the red light supposed to be out? I can’t get the red light to come back on by closing the door switches and/or blocking the optical sensor but I am making ice.

    • MJ Posted on January 25, 2019

      PC, thanks for coming back and updating this post! I really appreciate it. Mine also has the broken wire issue and it’s now making ice. The light on mine is the same as yours too… none of the diagnostic tests they mention make the light do anything, and it’s red when you power on and then goes off after a few minutes. Just curious, does your fridge compartment ever get too cold and freeze up?

    • Paul Posted on October 31, 2021

      PC you just solved my problem! Exact same issues from top to bottom. The fancy wire sheathing concealed all the broken wires. 3 of the 6 were severed. I was able to solder and shrink tube them back together in place though. Real simple. Thank you for all this info.

  32. Conrad Posted on March 6, 2019

    Water is not getting into the ice maker and we have replaced ootuc sensor boards and the optic sensor boards are not lighting up. What next? Model number is WSF26C3EXW01

    • Ryan Posted on March 6, 2019

      Check the wiring at the bottom of the door.

  33. RICK Posted on April 5, 2019

    Replaced optics,ice maker and valve.Now it will only Harvest ice when I power cycle the Fridge then it fills and won’t make any more cubes until I turn off the power for a moment and then back on?
    Any ideas?

    • Ryan Posted on April 5, 2019

      Did you replace the parts with new OEM parts? We see alot of issues with aftermarket and knockoff versions of these parts being sold on Amazon and Ebay.

  34. Debra Posted on April 13, 2019

    Red light will not stay on did the door test red light came on blinked twice than went back off?? Replace both boards you think?

  35. Greg Moore Posted on April 16, 2019

    Ice maker will not stop making ice . The optics led lights as desired but , it won’t quit making ice … Help

    • Ryan Posted on April 16, 2019

      Usually that is a sign of failed optics control boards.

  36. Mike Posted on November 24, 2019

    Whirlpool model #WSF26C2EXY02

    No ice…sort of

    Water inlet valve
    Both optic boards
    Ice maker control module- couldn’t get to bottom screws to remove/replace entire ice maker, so replaced only the module

    Water getting to ice maker, but not ejecting. However, after power up, ice that was formed does eject. Possibly because of warming up while door was open during repairs?
    Freezer temp set to 3 degrees F

    Same problem with the status light as listed above: blinks a few times after power up, but nothing after that. Same as before I replaced the optics boards.

    I’ve been reading about the door wire problems, but that might be above my pay grade

    I’m stumped. Any thoughts?

  37. Chris Pauer Posted on May 5, 2020

    Thanks for the walk through. My optics are good based on the test. The light turns solid with flapper depressed and then blinks again when I block the path. But it just won’t stop making ice! Is it possible, or probable, that even with the optic receiving the signal correctly that the receiver is just bad and would need replaced?

  38. Kelly Wigod Posted on September 5, 2020

    Ice maker all over the place. First not making ice. Then making ice and wont stop. Now making ice and wont stop even in the ice maker OFF position. The whole time there is no LED light showing or blinking. I am a little confused about when to try and replace the Optic Control Board vs. the Emitter Board?? Not sure if I have names correct but basically the green thin board vs the larger piece the green board screws onto. Kenmore 106.53702200

  39. Kari Posted on February 14, 2021

    My Kitchenaid fridge is not making ice. I replaced the ice maker and the optics sensor and still no ice. The blinking pattern is 2 pulses with a break whether the flapper is depressed or open. What should I try next?

  40. Yosemite Posted on May 10, 2021

    Whirlpool Gold Conquest (2004 vintage) Ice Maker is not making ice. 2 blinks followed by a pause then 2 blinks followed by a pause. Emitter lever closed and the light is solid, ADD Holding the door switch and the emitter receiver light goes out. Thoughts? Water valve?

  41. Hope Chase Posted on September 13, 2021

    I have a side by side whirlpool model number ED5HVAXVL02 and there is only 35 volts coming from the wires on the side of the freezer where it hooks into the ice maker? I open the freezer door and there are 2 blinks and pause and then repeat and then close the flapper and the Lee’s light stays on constantly. Please help!! I am at my wits ends.

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