When you install a new control board Whirlpool part number WPW10312695 ( PD00006321 ) the control board will require that is is programmed before it will operate. To program this control board please follow the programming instructions below.
NOTE: The Program Code is located on the Serial Plate on this unit after the word Code.
1. Press and hold the Door Alarm Keypad.
2. Press and hold Freezer Temperature DOWN /- Keypad within 3 seconds.
3. Release the Door Alarm Keypad and wait 3 seconds.
4. The control will display PE to indicate the programming mode.
5. Entry is confirmed by pressing the Freezer Temperature DOWN /- Keypad once more.
6. The control will display the current Program CODE. This value should be validated with the Program CODE printed on the unit serial plate.
NOTE: If the Program CODE is correct, the Programming Mode is exited by pressing Door Alarm Keypad for 3 seconds.
7. Press the Refrigerator Temperature UP /+ Keypad or Refrigerator Temperature DOWN /- Keypad to change the digit value with each key press.
8. The decimal point indicates the selected digit. Press the Freezer Temperature UP /+ Keypad to select the next digit.
9. Once the desired Program CODE is entered, press and hold the Freezer Temperature DOWN /- Keypad until the Program CODE begins flashing
indicating it has been saved.
NOTE: If you attempt to enter an invalid Program CODE the control will not save the new code, but will beep. (The unit will NOT run with a Program CODE of 0000). Once the Program CODE has been saved the Programming Mode is exited by pressing any key. If the new code is incorrect this process should be repeated.
The Programming mode can be exited at any time by pressing Door Alarm key for 3 seconds or will exit if unattended for four minutes.
If you need to purchase a new control board you can purchase this part from our website using the link below.
GE part number WE04X23220 main control board MUST be programmed after installation for the part to work with the dryer. The main control board is two electronic boards connected together by a wire spline and mounted in a plastic housing. The front board is the User Interface (UI) board and the rear board is the Machine Control board. When the main control board is replaced, the new board MUST be programmed with a model ID code. The model ID consists of the “User Interface Mode Type” and the “Heater Type”. The User Interface Mode Type is a number currently between 0 and 3. The Heater Type will be either an “E” for electric or a “g” for gas. Follow the instructions below to program the board. When the main control board has been replaced, it may sometimes power up with all of the LED’s blinking. If this is the case, follow only steps 5 through 10 below. Otherwise, follow all of the steps from the beginning.
Main Control Board Model ID Programming
1. Begin with the dryer in Idle Mode (all LED’s on display off).
2. Press the following key sequence to enter Service Mode: My Cycle –> Delay Dry –> My Cycle –> Delay Dry.
NOTE: The sequence must be done in order. If there are any other button presses or buttons are pressed out of order, the sequence must be started from the beginning.
3. Upon entering Service Mode, the control will be in t1.
4. Press the Start/Pause button when “t1” is displayed.
5. Simultaneously press and hold both the Temp & Level buttons for three seconds to prepare the control for selecting the model.
6. Press the Level button to increase or press the Temp button to decrease the Model Code number selection until the correct number is displayed, per the table on the right.
User Interface Mode Type Table
(See part instructions if model is not listed in table.)
User Interface Mode Type
7. Press the Start/Pause button to temporarily save the UI Model Code.
8. Next, the Heater Type selection is displayed as “g” or Gas or “E” for Electric. Press the Temp or Level to alternate the 7-segment display between the two Heater Type selections.
9. Press and hold the Start/Pause button for three seconds to set the Heater Type. The board will then return to an idle state and will exit Service Mode. It could take up to 10 seconds for the dryer to respond after exiting Service Mode.
10. The dryer is now ready for use.
If you need to purchase a new control board you can purchase this part from our website using the link below. Please make sure to check on our website to make sure the part is compatible with the model number from the dryer before ordering.
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If your dishwasher is not filling with water or filling with water while it is not in use then you should test the water inlet valve. This free video shows step by step instructions on how to test your dishwashers water inlet valve. Other videos online show to test the water inlet valve by ohming the solenoid on the valve. This test is not very conclusive and it doesn’t actually tell you if the valve is working properly. The testing process shown in the video below is the only conclusive way to test the valve.
If you find that you have a bad water inlet valve you can shop for a new one on our online store by searching with your appliances model number, or entering the part number off of the water valve here: https://partsdr.com/appliance-type/dishwasher-parts/valve-parts/ We sell new OEM appliance parts for Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, Estate, Roper, Frigidaire, Electrolux, Tappan, Westinghouse, Kitchen Aid, Jenn Air, Bosch, LG, Samsung, and more.
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Hi, this is Ryan with Parts Dr and today I am going to show you how to test the water inlet valve on your dishwasher to see if it is good or bad. Other videos online show to test the valve by measuring the resistance of the solenoids on the valve. This test is not very conclusive and doesn’t actually tell you if the valve is working properly. The testing process I am going to show you is the only conclusive way to determine if the water valve is working properly.
Water valves can fail in a variety of ways. They can start to leak which can cause water to fill up inside the dishwasher when it is not in use. They can also cause the dishwasher to not fill with enough water or not fill with water at all.
The first thing you will need to do is unplug or turn off the power to the dishwasher. Next you will need to gain access to the water valve and look for a sticker or stamping in the metal on the side of the valve. What we will first need to know is if the water valve is powered by AC or DC voltage and what the voltage rating is. You should should see a sticker or stamping in the metal with information like this on the side of the valve. To test the valve we are going to need to apply power to the valve to manually actuate the valve to see if it is working properly.
If your dishwasher has a AC voltage water valve, it is most likely powered by 110-120v AC power which is the standard power that comes from the power outlet in your house. We are going to first need to make a test cord to apply power to the water valve. To make a test cord you are going to need a power cord, two crimp on insulated terminals, and a crimping tool. I will include links to the items we used to make the test cord in the description below.
If the wires are your test cord are not already exposed you will need to strip the insulation from them so they look like this. On the power cord we are using here, the green is the ground wire and the white and black are the two power wires. If the power cord you are using is not color coded, you will need to test each wire with a multimeter for continuity to see which wire is ground, hot, and neutral. The green is the ground wire, the white is the neutral, and the black is the hot wire. We will not be using the ground wire on the test cord, so we are going to cut that off. Now we are going to crimp on an insulated 1/4” female spade terminal onto each of the white and black wires. And now the test cord is done and ready to use.
If your dishwasher has a DC voltage water valve, it is most likely power by 12-14V DC power. We are going to use a 12V battery pack that uses 8 AA batteries for our power supply. This battery pack works nicely because it has wires coming out of it that we can crimp out spade terminals to and it also has an on/off switch that we can use to switch the power on and off. You can also use any 12V DC battery that you can attach wires to. To get the battery pack ready we are just going to need to crimp on a female spade terminal onto each of the two wires. I will include links to the items we used for our battery back in the description below.
Next we need to inspect the valve to see what style wire terminals it has. There are two common styles of terminals we see on most water inlet valves. Most either have two 1/4” male spade terminals, or two smaller pins that stick out of the valve. If your valve has the 1/4” spade terminals, we will be able to directly connect our test cord or battery pack directly to the valve.
If the valve has two pins, we will need to cut the wiring harness a few inches away from the valve. Next we will strip all four wires using a wire stripper. On one side of the harness we will crimp on two male spade terminals. And on the other side of the harness we will crimp on two female spade terminals. This will allow us to connect our power source to the water valve and reconnect the harness back together when we are done.
To test the valve you will need to make sure the water is turned on to the dishwasher and the water supply to the dishwasher is flowing at a good rate. Let the valve sit for little while and make sure no water leaks from the outlet of the valve. If the water valve leaks when there is no power supplied to the valve then it is bad and should be replaced.
Next connect the battery pack or test cord to the water valve. It does not matter which wire goes to which terminal. Now turn on your power supply or plug in your test cord. If the water valve is good, the water should flow out of the valve at a steady rate. If no water comes out of the valve or the water flow seems restricted or slow then you should replace the valve. The water flow rate should be about that same as the water supply line to the dishwasher. You can also check your dishwashers owners manual or installation instructions for the manufactures recommended water supply specifications for the psi and flow rate. Do not apply power to the water valve for more than 1 minute at a time before letting it cool down for a few minutes as it can damage the valve.
If the flow rate on your water valve is slow, it can be caused by sediment that has built up on the screen of the valve or inside the valve. On most water inlet valves the screen is not removable. Do not try to disassemble the water valve to try to clean it. We often see people try to do this and it will almost always result in leaking afterwards which can flood and damage your house. For the cost of replacing the water inlet valve it is not worth damaging your house.
If you find that you have a bad water inlet valve and you need to purchase a new one, you can purchase one from our online store by clicking the link in the description below. Please be careful when shopping water inlet valves as many stores sell lower quality aftermarket water valves. You can be assured when you purchase from Parts Dr that you will receive a new OEM water valve.
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Whirlpool thermistor part number WP8577274 is used on many Whirlpool model dryers including some Maytag , Amana, Kenmore, Crosley and Inglis model dryers. When this thermistor fails it can cause your dryer to stop running or not heat correctly and display a F-22, F-23, E1, or E2 error code. If you are receiving either any these error codes you should test the thermistor.
Click the link below to purchase this part from our online store:
This thermistor replaces these parts numbers:
3390292, 3406294, 3976615, 772546, 8577274, 1181075, AP6013514, PS11746740, EAP11746740
Hi this is Ryan with Parts Dr, and today I am going to show you how to test the thermistor on your dryer to see if it is good or bad. This thermistor is a temperature sensor that measures the exhaust air temperature inside the dryer for the control board so it can maintain the desired temperature inside the dryer.
When the thermistor fails it can cause the dryer to display a F-22, F-23, E1, or E2 error code. The dryer can display one of these error codes if the thermistor is shorted or open.
To test your thermistor you will first need to unplug the dryer, disconnect the wires to the thermistor, and remove the thermistor from the dryer. Using a multi meter you will need to do an ohm test to check the resistance of the thermistor. It is important to note that you can NOT do a continuity test on a thermistor. Thermistors have a high ohm value that won’t register on a continuity test on most multimeters. If you have an auto ranging multimeter, then turn the meter to the ohm setting. If you have a manual ranging multi meter you will need to set the meter to the 20K or 40K setting.
Place one of each of the meters probes on each of the thermistors wire terminals. A good thermistor should have an ohm reading around 11K Ohms at room temperature. If your ohm reading is far higher or lower than this then you should replace the thermistor. The resistance value of the thermistor varies depending on the temperature of the dryer, here is a chart that shows the different resistance values at different temperatures.
If you find that you have a bad thermistor and you need to purchase a new one, you can purchase one from our online store by clicking the link in the description below. Please subscribe to our youtube channel for more appliance repair videos, and if you found this video helpful please click the thumbs up button below. You can also stay up to date by liking us on our Facebook page, and following us on Twitter.
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