Category Archives: Dryer

Who Made My Sears Kenmore Appliance

Kenmore is a popular appliance brand sold by Sears.  Sears does not manufacture any of the appliances themselves, instead they source that out and have other manufacturers make their appliances for them.  You can easily decode the model number of the appliance to tell you who made your Kenmore appliance.

The first three digits in a Kenmore model can will tell you who manufactured the appliance for Sears.  For example model number 110.45862400, the first three digits are 110 so that would tell you that Whirlpool manufactured the appliance.  Some of the more common appliance manufacturers Sears uses is Whirlpool, Frigidaire, LG, and GE. If you are looking for parts for your Kenmore appliance your can search for the model number in the search box at the top of the page.

Prefix Manufacturer Prefix Manufacturer
103 Roper 629 Jenn Air
106 Whirlpool 647 Roper
110 Whirlpool 651 Speed Queen
119 Frigidaire 664 Whirlpool
143 SFS Corp. (Sanyo/Fisher) 665 Whirlpool
144 Trane 666 KitchenAid
155 Preway 683 Philco
174 Caloric 719 Tappan (Frigidaire)
175 In-Sink-Erator 721 Goldstar (LG Electronics)
198 Whirlpool 747 Litton
233 Broan 757 Marvel, Imperial
253 Gibson (Frigidaire) 789 Defience
274 RCA 790 WCI (Frigidaire)
278 Roper 791 Tappan (Frigidaire)
292 Lennox 795 LG ( Refrigerators )
335 Amana 796 LG (Laundry)
336 Electrolux 835 Roper
342 York 840 Friedrich
362 GE 850 Whirlpool (Chambers)
363 GE 867 Keeprite
401 Samsung 879 Rheem/Ruud
416 Carrier 911 Roper
417 Kelvinator (Frigidaire) 917 Roper (Whirlpool)
464 GE 925 Maycor (Maytag)
473 Hoover 934 Hitachi
484 Fedders, Whirlpool 960 Caloric
562 Toshiba 970 Frigidaire
564 Sanyo C106. Inglis
565 Sanyo C110. Inglis
566 Sanyo C362. Camco
568 Panisonic C363. Camco
575 Sharp C646. Admiral (Inglis)
580 Goldstar (LG Electronics) C675. Woods
586 Panisonic C880. Admiral (Inglis)
587 DM (Frigidaire) C933. Kelvinator (Before 1970)
596 Amana C938. Keeprite
622 Kelvinator (Frigidaire) C970. Kelvinator (1970+)
628 Kelvinator (Frigidaire) C978. Camco

How To Test Frigidaire Thermistor 134587700

Posted on July 14, 2014

Newer Frigidaire and Kenmore dryers use a thermistor sensor to control the temperature inside the dryer. A thermistor is a type of resistor that varies it’s resistance with the change in temperature. When the thermistor fails, it can cause the dryer to not heat at all, get too hot, or sometimes it will throw an F02 error code (open or shorted thermistor) on some models.

Here is how to check/test the Frigidaire 134587700 thermistor:

  • Before working on your clothes dryer, make sure it is unplugged.
  • First remove the thermistor sensor from the dryer. The thermistor is located on the blower housing next to the blower wheel.
  • With the thermistor removed from the dryer, you will need to use an ohm meter or multi-meter to measure the resistance of the thermistor.
  • Place one of each of the probes from the meter on each terminal of thermistor. With the thermistor at room temperature, the thermistor should read approximately 50-53k ohms. If the thermistor is off by more than 10% then the sensor will need to be replaced.

Here is a reading from a bad sensor (0.05k ohms):

134587700_bad

If you have a bad thermistor sensor and need to purchase a new one, please click the link below:

Dryer Thermistor Control – 134587700

How To Replace Whirlpool 279838 Heating Element

Posted on July 11, 2014

One of the most common repairs done to dryers is replacing the heating element.  This is an easy task that most any DIYer can tackle themselves.  The most common heating element found on Whirlpool dryers is part number 279838, this element is sometimes called the “shorty” because of its small size compared to its larger predecessor used on older Whirlpool dryers part number 4391960.

How To Replace The 279838 Heating Element

How To Test The 279838 Heating Element

My Dryer Still Doesn’t Heat After Replacing The Element

Where Can I Buy A Genuine Whirlpool 279838 Heating Element?

How to replace the 279838 heating element:

First before working on the dryer, you will need to unplug and remove the exhaust vent from the dryer.

Next, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer. Remove the nine 1/4″ screws and then tilt the panel back and lift up to remove.

279838_Replacement1

Now remove the wires going to the heating element and high limit thermostat.  Some dryers may have up to five wires, so make sure to note the place and position of each wire.  The high limit thermostat is the part attached to the left side of the heating element.  Newer dryers will use a push on style high limit thermostat part number 3977767, and older dryers use a thermostat that is attached with one or two 1/4″ screws part number 3390291.

279838_Replacement3

Remove the two 1/4″ mountings screws on the left and right sides.

279838_Replacement4

With the two mounting screws removed, pull back on the bottom of the element, and then slide it down to remove it from the dryer.

279838_Replacement5

Remove the high limit thermostat from the old heating element and transfer it over to the new heating element.  You will have to pry up on it if you have a newer style thermostat, or you will have to remove the mounting screw(s) if you have an older style thermostat.

279838_Replacement6

Re-install everything in the reverse order. Make sure to check your dryer vent and blower housing (where the lint filter slides into) for any vent restrictions. This is the number one thing that causes heating elements to burn out prematurely.

My Dryer Still Doesn’t Heat

Multiple things on a dryer can cause dryers not to heat. The heating element is just one of many things that can cause your dryer not to heat. The second most common thing that causes these dryers not to heat is a bad thermal fuse. There are two thermal fuses, one is right next to the blower fan and one is on the heater box. The common blower thermal fuse is part number 3392519 and when that goes bad you should also replace the operating thermostat (Usually part number 3387134 or 694674). Whirlpool sells the high limit thermal fuse and thermostat on the heater box as a kit. Newer dryers use part number 279816 and older dryers use part number 279769. If you have a bad thermal fuse, then your dryer got too hot. Check your dryer and venting for any restrictions. Also make sure your heating element is not shorted to ground (this causes the heating element to stay on all the time).

Electric dryers also require 220-240 volts to work properly, if you only have 120v going to the dryer it is possible for it to run but not heat. The timer, motor, and bad wiring can also cause heating problems on dryers. All parts are specific to your model dryer, so please contact us before ordering parts.

How To Test The 279838 Heating Element

To test your heating element you will need to first remove the heating element from the dryer (follow the above instructions to remove the element). With the element removed from the dryer, do a visual inspection of the element. Often times you will be able to see a break in the heating coil. Sometimes it even helps to grab each section of the coil and wiggle it to make sure there isn’t a break in it. If you can’t see a break in the coil, then you will need an Ohm meter or Multi-Meter to test the heating element. Place one probe on each terminal of the heating element, you should get a reading of approximately 9-10 ohms on a good element. If you get no resistance, then the element is bad and will need to be replaced.

Where Can I Buy a Genuine Whirlpool 279838 Heating Element?

Parts Dr sells new genuine OEM Whirlpool replacement heating elements. You will often find knockoff heating elements sold for less money. These elements are lower quality, and don’t hold up as well in the long run. Visit the link below to visit our store to purchase a genuine Whirlpool 279838 heating element.

Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element  - 279838

279838

How To Install Samsung Dryer Heating Element DC97-14486A

Samsung dryer heating element DC97-14486A is used on many Samsung clothes dryers and even some Maytag (Neptune) and Amana dryer models.  When the heating element goes bad, it will usually have a break in the heating coil which will cause the element not to heat.  These instructions work for most Samsung dryers, some may have some small differences but the overall process if very similar.  Here is how to replace and test the DC97-14486A & DC47-00019A heating element:

First, unplug or shut off the power to the dryer before working on it.

How_to_remove_samsung_dryer_heating_element_DC47-00019A

Then remove the two screws securing the top panel to the back of the dryer.  Slide the top panel towards the back of the dryer to remove.  Now you will need to remove the front control panel, some model will have screws securing this. Remove them and then pull up to remove, you should have enough extra wire to set the control panel on top of the dryer to get it out of the way (if not, then disconnect the wires and set it off to the side).

Behind where the control panel was there will be four screws that secure the front panel of the dryer to the frame.  Remove these four screws.

How_to_remove_samsung_dryer_heating_element_DC47-00019A_2

Open the door of the dryer, there will be two screws that need to be removed at the bottom of the door frame area.  With those two screws removed you should be able to tilt the front panel forward, remove the connector to the door switch, and remove the front panel.

How_to_remove_samsung_dryer_heating_element_DC47-00019A_3

The heating element is located on the bottom right side of the dryer.  To remove the element you will need to remove the wires to the heating element, thermal fuse, and thermostat.  Then remove the mounting screw in the front and the whole heating element assembly should pull out the front of the dryer.

How_to_remove_samsung_dryer_heating_element_DC47-00019A_4

To test the heating element, you will need an Ohm meter or multi-meter.  A good heating element should read approximately 9-10 ohms.  A burned out element will have an infinite resistance (it won’t register anything).  See the video below for instructions on how to test the heating element.

To re-install the heating element you will need to put everything back in the reverse order.  If you lost track of how the wires connect to the heating element, please see the picture below.

DC97-14486A Wiring WM

If you need to purchase a new Samsung dryer heating element, click one of the two links below.

The best way to purchase the heating element is as an assembly. The heating element assembly includes the heating element, two thermostats, and housing.

Heating Element Assembly -  Part # PD00002003 (mfg # DC97-14486A)

We also sell the heating element by itself.  You will need to re-use the thermostats and element housing.

Heating Element – Part # PD00001991 (mfg # DC47-00019A)

Dryer Maintenance Tips

Maintaining your dryer properly can be the difference of saving yourself hundreds of dollars of repair costs over the lifetime of your dryer.  Not keeping your dryer lint free can not only cause your dryer to break down more, but the lint build up is a serious fire hazard.  Here are 4 things to check.

Lint Filter

Clean the lint filter for the dryer after every load.  If you see any tears or rips in the lint filter, replace the filter with a new one.  Any large holes in the lint screen will allow lint to get past the filter and prematurely clog up the inside of the dryer or the exhaust vent.

Blower Housing (Area Under Lint Filter)

The area underneath the lint filter is typically called the blower housing.  The blower housing is a main air duct where air flows through your dryer.  Often, lint will build up in this area and it will need to be cleaned out.  On some dryers you can use a small brush to stick into the lint filter opening to clean out the lint, and on other dryers the whole dryer has to be taken apart to clean out the blower housing.  This is important to keep clean to maintain good airflow in your dryer.

Dryer Vent

Over time,  and even when cleaning the lint screen every load, a small amount of lint still passes by the lint filter and some of it builds up inside your dryer exhaust vent.  This lint needs to be cleaned out either by taking the venting apart (if accessible), or by hiring a professional company to clean your vent out.  Always make sure to use metal venting.  Plastic flexible venting can cause fires, and should be replaced with new aluminum venting.

Dryer Cabinet

The inside cabinet of the dryer will build up with lint over time.  This usually doesn’t accumulate very fast, but if you have an exhaust vent that is not sealed up very well then a lot of that lint can circulate back into the dryer.  Before pulling your dryer apart, make sure to unplug it first.  Some dryers have a front bottom panel that is removable that will give you easy access to cleaning out the cabinet of the dryer.  Other dryer models have to be pull completely apart to accomplish this task.  If you aren’t very handy, you may need to hire a appliance repair man to do the job for you.

How To Test Maytag Thermistor 35001191

Some Maytag Neptune dryers use a thermistor temperature sensor to measure the temperature of the air in the dryer.  When this sensor fails you can get a “tS”/”t5″ error code which indicates a thermistor short.  Testing this sensor is very easy, all you need is a digital mulit-meter that can read ohms.

This is how to test thermistor part number 35001191:

  • With the thermistor removed from the dryer set your meter to measure ohms (or to the 20K/40k ohms setting)
  • Place one probe on each terminal of the thermistor
  • The thermistor at room temperature should read approximately 10k ohms.  If it is far off from that, the sensor will need to be replaced. (sensor in the above picture is a bad sensor)
  • Once the bad sensor has been replaced, you will need to reset the code or else the TS code will continue to display.

Here is how to get into service mode to clear the TS code:

  • First, Enter Service Mode.  Dryer must be on before Service Mode can be entered. Press Chime and Temperature Keys for 3 seconds, or until 3 beeps are heard. The machine will now be in Service Mode.
  • Next, access diagnostic codes by entering the Service Mode and pressing Wrinkle Prevent. A “d” will be displayed. Rotate the Cycle Selector Knob in either direction to step through the list of codes one code at a time.
  • Then, to clear the diagnostic code list press the Sensor Dry Level and Time keypads together for 3 seconds while viewing the list. The cycle count for each diagnostic code will be reset to 0, but not the machine cycle count.
  • Finally exit service mode by pressing the OFF key or repeat the Chime and Temperature sequence.

If you need to purchase a thermistor sensor for your dryer click the link below:

Thermistor – 35001191

How To Test GE Dryer Thermistor Temperature Sensor

Posted on July 30, 2011

Some GE dryer models that use a control board instead of a timer have a temperature sensor thermistor that controls the temperature of the dryer.  The thermistor measures the temperature of the air in the dryer so the dryer knows how hot to get.  When a thermistor fails, it can cause the dryer to not heat at all or heat up to the wrong temperature.

Here is how to test GE dryer thermistor part number WE4M275.  Remove the thermistor from the dryer, and with the thermistor at room temperature measure the resistance of the sensor.  At room temperature the thermistor should read approximately 100k ohms, if it is far off from this the thermistor should be replaced.

Resistance Values:

118-122k Ohms – 69°F (21°C)

98-102k Ohms – 77°F (25°C)

78-82k Ohms – 86°F (30°C)

 

Testing a good sensor:

Testing a bad sensor:

If your sensor is bad and you need to order a new one click the link below.

GE Temperature Sensor Thermistor – WE4M275

Whirlpool Appliance Age – Serial Number Decoder

Posted on July 2, 2011

In order to find the age of a Whirlpool built appliance you will need the serial number from the appliance.  Since Whirlpool manufactures appliances under many different names, this may work with some of these brand names also:

Whirlpool, Kenmore (Sears), Maytag (Newer models), Kitchen Aid, Estate, Inglis, Roper, Amana, Jenn Air, Crosley and more.

Serial Number Example:

CR3949348

1st Digit: Where the appliance was manufactured. C = Clyde, OH.

2nd Digit: Year Manufactured.  R = 2004

3rd & 4th Digit: Week the appliance was manufactured.  39 = 39th week of the year.

5th-9th Digit: Manufacture order that week

See the charts below for the year codes:

1989andolder

1990-present

Maytag Dryer Rumbles On Start – Bad Blower Wheel

Posted on June 29, 2011

On older style Maytag & Jenn Air dryers, the blower wheel often fails with age.  The blower wheel connects to the motor and is the fan that blows the air through the dryer.  When the blower wheel fails you will often hear a rumbling noise come from the dryer when you start it, and then again when you turn it off.  Also you may start to notice the clothes taking longer to dry than normal since the blower wheel isn’t spinning as fast as it’s supposed to.

What goes bad on the blower wheel is the flat spot that is supposed to bed on the blower wheel.  On a bad blower wheel the center will be round out.

(bad blower wheel)

On a good blower wheel the center will have a “D” shape with a flat spot for the motor shaft to grab onto.

(good blower wheel)

 

The manufacturer part number for the blower wheel is Y303836, and sometimes they will have the number 3-12913 stamped on the plastic.  Click the link below to purchase the blower wheel from our store.

Blower Wheel – Y303836

 

Whirlpool/Kenmore Dryer Idler Pulley Squeak

Posted on June 26, 2011

For a few years Whirlpool decided to try using a different style idler pulley (belt tension pulley) on their 29″ wide dryers with the lint filter located on the top of the dryer.  They did this for about 2-3 years, and then they decided to go back to the original idler pulley that they had used for years previously.

This poorly designed idler pulley uses a piece of stamped metal with a plastic/teflon piece attached to it where the belt rides to reduce the friction.  Over time this idler pulley will start to make loud squealing noises or even high pitched whines.  Sometimes the squeak will be louder when the dryer starts, and then go away.  Whirlpool has now gone back to the original design that uses a wheel that fixes this squeaking noise.

Bad Squeaking Idler Pulley

Part to fix the problem.  Part Number PD00002256  (mfg #691366)

For a little bit more you can get a maintenance kit part number PD00002464 (mfg#4392065), that includes the idler pulley, belt, and rear drum rollers.

Parts Dr

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