Monthly Archives: July 2011

How To Test GE Dryer Thermistor Temperature Sensor

Posted on July 30, 2011

Some GE dryer models that use a control board instead of a timer have a temperature sensor thermistor that controls the temperature of the dryer.  The thermistor measures the temperature of the air in the dryer so the dryer knows how hot to get.  When a thermistor fails, it can cause the dryer to not heat at all or heat up to the wrong temperature.

Here is how to test GE dryer thermistor part number WE4M275.  Remove the thermistor from the dryer, and with the thermistor at room temperature measure the resistance of the sensor.  At room temperature the thermistor should read approximately 100k ohms, if it is far off from this the thermistor should be replaced.

Resistance Values:

118-122k Ohms – 69°F (21°C)

98-102k Ohms – 77°F (25°C)

78-82k Ohms – 86°F (30°C)

 

Testing a good sensor:

Testing a bad sensor:

If your sensor is bad and you need to order a new one click the link below.

GE Temperature Sensor Thermistor – WE4M275

LG Washer Hall Senor Location

Posted on July 17, 2011

LG Hall Sensor 6501KW2002A Location

The hall sensor (6501KW2002A) on the LG front load washing machines is located on the bottom back side of the stator.  Unplug the washer, then to access it you have to remove the back panel of the washer, remove the rotor (single large bolt), then remove the stator (6 smaller bolts), unplug the two connectors and remove the ground and you can pull the stator off to access the hall sensor.  The hall sensor just clips on, so you just have to unclip the old one and clip on the new one.

The Hall Sensor is a Rotor Position Sensor (RPS), it tells the computer what position the rotor is in.  The computer uses this to see how fast the drum is spinning along with other things.  When the Hall Sensor goes bad, it will commonly give an LE error (Locked Rotor error) on the washer.  When the sensor goes bad it can cause the drum not to drum properly and even make the washer make some strange growling noises.

If you have any questions, post them in the comments below.  If you need to purchase a Hall Sensor for your LG washer, visit the link below.

Hall Sensor – 6501KW2002A

Samsung Blinking Dash/Line Error Code List

Posted on July 16, 2011

Samsung refrigerators will start to blink a Dash or Line on the display when they there is an error code.  For example, if #12 in the diagram below was blinking then the computer thinks that there is a problem with the condenser fan motor.  Keep in mind that error codes are a starting point, and replacing the part related to the problem does not always fix the problem.  There can be a problem with the stated part, wiring, main PCB control board, and sometimes even an un-related part.  If you are unsure you should hire a technician to properly diagnose the problem.

(Click Diagram To Enlarge)

1: Ice maker sensor -Ice Maker sensor connector missing, contact failure, electric wire cut, short-circuit, Ice Maker sensor failure, and so on.  Indicates an error when the temperature sensed by Ice Maker sensor is higher than 150℉ or lower than –58℉.

2: Refrigerator Sensor – Refrigerator sensor connector missing; contact failure, electric wire cut, short- circuit, Refrigerator sensor itself failure; and so on. Indicate Error when the temperature sensed by Refrigerator sensor is higher than 150℉or lower than –58℉.

3: Refrigerator Defrost Sensor – Refrigerator evaporator internal defrosting sensor connector missing, contact failure, electric wire cut, short-circuit, sensor itself failure; and so on.  Indicate Error when the temperature sensed by Refrigerator defrosting sensor is higher than 150℉or lower than –58℉.

4: Refrigerator Fan Error – Refrigerator Fan motor operation failure, feedback signal line contact failed, electric wire cut, short- circuit, and so on.  Indicates an error if the F and G signals generated by the FAN-motor operation are not input.

5: Ice Maker Function Error – Ice-ejector and level failed three times or more

6:  CoolSelect Zone Sensor – CoolSelect ZoneTM sensor connector missing, contact failed, electric wire cut, short-circuit, CoolSelect ZoneTM sensor itself failed, and so on. Indicates an error when the temperature sensed by CoolSelect ZoneTM sensor is higher than 150℉or lower than –58℉.

7: Refrigerator Defrost Error – In the refrigerator room, if frost removal mode is finished due to limited time of 80 minutes. Error is displayed.

8: Exit-Sensor – Air sensor connector missing; contact failure, electric wire cut, short-circuit, open air sensor itself failure, and so on.  Indicates an Error when the temperature sensed by the open air sensor is higher than 150℉or lower than –58℉.

9: Freezer Sensor – Freezer sensor connector missing, contact failed, electric wire cut, short-circuit, Freezer Room sensor itself failure.  Indicate Error when the temperature sensed by Freezer sensor is higher than 150℉ or lower than –58℉.

10: Freezer Defrost Error – Freezer evaporator defrosting sensor connector missing, contact failed, electric wire cut, short- circuit, sensor itself failure, and so on.  Indicates an error when the temperature sensed by Freezer defrosting sensor is higher than 150℉or lower than –58℉.

11: Freezer Fan Error – Freezer Fan motor operation failure, feedback signal line contact failure, motor’s electric wire missing, and so on.  Indicate Error if the F and G signals generated by the FAN-motor operation are not input.

12: Condensor Fan Error  – Condenser Fan motor operation failure, feedback signal line contact failure, motor’s electric wire missing, and so on.  Indicates an error if the F and G signals generated by the FAN- motor operation are not input.

13: Freezer Defrost Error – In the freezer room, if frost removal mode is finished due to limited time of 70 minutes. Error is displayed.

WR51X10101 – How To Wire and Install New Style Double Heater

Posted on July 15, 2011

GE’s WR51X10101 Defrost heater has been used for many years on many models of refrigerators.  GE used to use a single glass tube heater, and in 2007 they redesigned the defrost heater to a dual tube design that fits in the same location.  The new design spreads the wattage of the heater out over two glass tubes instead of one to reduce the number of heater failures.

*Before working on your refrigerator, make sure to unplug it.

What you’ll notice first on the new heater is that there is a yellow jumper wire on the left hand side.  Do not remove this jumper, hooking up the heater to only one of the heater tubes will cause it to burn out as soon as the refrigerator goes through a defrost cycle.  What you will need to do is remove the wire that used to go to the left side of the old heater (usually the blue wire) and run it over to the right side of the refrigerator. Both the blue and pink wire will be hooked up on the right side of the new heater.  See the above picture for reference.  In some cases, if the blue wire is not long enough to reach to the other side, it will need to be extended.  Included with the new heater is an extension wire and crimp connector to extend the wire.  The new heater should fit in the same place that the old heater went, it can be a tight fit but it will work.

If you need to purchase a defrost heater for your GE or Hotpoint refrigerator, see the link below.  If you have any questions, please post them in the comments below.

GE Defrost Heater Assembly – WR51X10101

Dishwasher Not Filling With Enough Water

Posted on July 12, 2011

Most dishwashers use a water inlet valve with a electronic solenoid to allow the dishwasher to fill up with water.  The dishwasher will use either a Timer or Control board to tell the dishwasher when to fill up with water and for how long to fill up with water.  Most dishwashers do not measure how much water is filling up into the dishwasher, instead they fill up with water for a certain amount of time.  60-120 seconds is a common amount of time for a dishwasher to fill up with water, but it will vary depending on the make and model of the dishwasher.

it might only fill up with 50% or 75% of the water it was supposed to

On the inlet side of the water valve there is a screen.  The purpose of this screen is to keep
sediment out of the insides of the valve.  If any small objects get into the valve it can cause it not to work or to leak and flood your house/floor.  Over time the inlet screen on the valve will get hard water deposits and other debri stuck in the screen which clogs up water valve and causes it not to flow as well.  So now when the dishwasher calls to fill up with water for XX seconds, it might only fill up with 50% or 75% of the water it was supposed to.  Symptoms of a clogged water valve can be poor washing, surging sound from the pump, and soap not washing out of the dispenser.

When this happens I always recommend replacing the water valve.  I have seen many people try to “clean” out the screens, and by doing this the valve developed a leak and cause thousands of dollars in damage to their house.  Most water valves are pretty inexpensive ($15-$75), so I recommend to just replace the valve if you see that the screen is clogged up.

To check to see if your valve has a clogged screen, pull it off the dishwasher and look inside the inlet side of the valve.

Here is an example of a clogged screen on a water valve:

Here is a good clean screen on a water valve:

How To Test Oven Temperature Sensor

Posted on July 6, 2011

Testing the temperature sensor probe on your oven is easy.  With the sensor at room temperature, measure the resistance between the two prongs at the end of the sensor connector.  The resistance of the sensor should read approximately 1080 – 1090 ohms at room temperature.  If you get a reading that is far off from that, you will need to replace the sensor.  The oven temperature sensor sends the temperature reading to the control board so the control board knows how hot to heat up the oven.  This test works for most common temperature sensors.

See the chart below for more temperature and resistance values.

Common Oven Temp Sensors:

Short Sensor 3″

Long Senor 6.25″

Whirlpool Appliance Age – Serial Number Decoder

Posted on July 2, 2011

In order to find the age of a Whirlpool built appliance you will need the serial number from the appliance.  Since Whirlpool manufactures appliances under many different names, this may work with some of these brand names also:

Whirlpool, Kenmore (Sears), Maytag (Newer models), Kitchen Aid, Estate, Inglis, Roper, Amana, Jenn Air, Crosley and more.

Serial Number Example:

CR3949348

1st Digit: Where the appliance was manufactured. C = Clyde, OH.

2nd Digit: Year Manufactured.  R = 2004

3rd & 4th Digit: Week the appliance was manufactured.  39 = 39th week of the year.

5th-9th Digit: Manufacture order that week

See the charts below for the year codes:

1989andolder

1990-present

Parts Dr

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